rossman

Pegasus Auto Racing sells a universal Tilton for $425.

+1 It looks like the stuff may have also served as a secondary back-out prevention for the screws that hold the baffle to the cover.

I was cleaning up my valve cover and noticed that the sealant around the edges of the breather baffle is chipped and crumbling. I scraped it all out so I can replace it. It looks like epoxy but I wanted to check here to see if anybody knows for sure. Will regular two part epoxy work? Cheers, Ross

That is the plan. I've got a friend at work who has a large tube bender and flaring tool. Thanks for the compliments. I wish I was closer. It's a good hour drive to your place.

There is a good thread about replacing the vent hoses over at Classic Zcar Club: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25857

I would start by draining the tank, blowing out all the fuel lines with compressed air, and replacing the fuel filter again. Note any rust or gunk that comes out of the tank/lines. If that fixes the problem you might want to refurbished the fuel tank.

Hell, if you are just looking for ~300 hp they why not just drop in an l28 turbo? It may not have the internet coolness as an RB or 2JZ but it's easy and much cheaper assuming you go with stock internals. Something to think about...

Check your ground. There HAS to be a GOOD ground for them to function properly.

Here are a few pictures of work I did last weekend. I forgot what a ***** it is to get to the nuts on the underside of the intake. Once I started installing the intake I remembered to put the nuts and thick washers on then slide the intake under them. It has been 15 years or so since the last one I installed. A new trick I learned on this board is to loosely taped up u-joint to aid aligning the socket with the nuts. The turbo pipe routing is kinda odd but I think it will work. There is 1+ inches of clearance to the hood at that location. I like it because it will clear up room on the front side of the engine. It's kinda blingy but it's growing on me. Notice the rather large -10 fuel rail. I know it's overkill but I like the looks of it and there is no doubt it will flow enough fuel to avoid restricting the fuel pump. Also note the rather small barb that was provided by the supplier. I think it's kinda odd that he would provide such small fitting for such a large rail. It would probably be best to either provide a 1/2 to AN fitting or toss it out and save some money.

Agreed. What kind of car guy would look at a fancy car like that and NOT pop the hood?

Yeah "rock solid" my ass! That car needs some serious metal work if you're going to replace all the rust. From the pictures, it needs new rockers and rear quarter panels. I'm going to guess the frame rails are rusted out too. You can buy frame rails from Zedd Findings or Baddog.

It's been a while since I posted so I thought I would give a little update. I talked with Dave at AZC about the parking brake kit. He has the design finished but he has not made any kits yet. The kit will include everything needed: calipers, caliper brackets, cable, cable brackets, etc. He expects to have the kits completed by next week...at least one for me...so I'll stop bugging him . I'm piecing together my fuel system. I had Moyer Fuel Tank Renu restore my fuel tank and weld in a sump and baffling with 3/4" NPT fittings. 3/4" fittings are probably overkill but Aeromotive specifies a -10 feed so I went bigger rather than risk choking the pump with 1/2 inch fittings. For the fuel system I've purchased all Aeromotive stuff: A1000 pump, 100 micron pre-filter, 10 micron post-pump filter, rising rate fuel pressure regulator, and a pump speed controller. All will be connected with AN fittings, Earl's Pro-lite hose and stainless tubing under the car. I plan to mount the pump and filters to the Modern Motorsports rear brace. I'll have to fab up mounting plate but it should work well. The pump will be low enough to gravity feed it from the tank. I have actually done some work on the car too. I mounted the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and turbo and did some preliminary turbo pipe routing. I may go with an over the engine turbo pipe routing. This should clear up room for my fan shroud (yes, I plan to run a stock clutch fan). I checked clearance to the hood and it appears there is plenty of room as long as the 2.5" pipe passes over the back half of the valve cover. I'll try to take some pictures tomorrow, it's late and I need to go to bed.

The quarter panels are steel and part of the unibody. I can see rust on them in the pics. I would seriously question anybody who says an old Z is "rock solid" especially if its been sitting in the weather like that one. Don't buy it without seeing it first. Sunny got most of the problem areas. Also check on the bottom of the hatch and on the body around the rear hatch area.

I agree, it's an S30. Look at the rear hatch strut bracket. How abut the overhead panel where the dome light is mounted? Both look like Datsun hardware to me. A-Pillars, rear hatch, tail light panel...

Hyundai's have come a long way since their first car in the states. The first time I drove in an Excel back in college I remember thinking "this thing is a load of ****." Now they are giving Nissan, Honda and Toyota some tough competition. I considered buying a Santa Fe for my wife but she HAD to have a Rav4. It's a nice car but I'm not that impressed with the (so called) Toyota quality.

If you read my post carefully I state: "On earlier models that is done by disconnecting the vacuum hose from the distributor. I'm not sure how that is done on a ZXT."

Why did you put turbo injectors on an na engine? Do you have a tunable ECU? If not, you are running way to rich. I'm not sure if the injectors are causing the surging but I would start by swapping back to na injectors.

That is normal "vacuum advance" behavior. You need to set the timing with the vacuum advance disabled. On earlier models that is done by disconnecting the vacuum hose from the distributor. I'm not sure how that is done on a ZXT. Download the service manual. You should look elsewhere for your low boost problem. Have you checked that your wastegate is functioning properly?

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Oops, I meant to post to this more recent post on a similar subject. I wanted to make sure it came off a KA24 before I asked him to search any further. I'm guessing they still have exploded views of the engine with p/n's called out on the drawing.

I called Courtesy Nissan to get that long bolt. They said that the number from Jeff's website (12309-29500) is not a good number. Can anybody confirm that the bolt is off a KA24 engine? jeffp?

My old '76 280z did the same thing. I also removed all the cold start and emissions stuff (what there was of it). The stuff out the exhuast appeared to be a mixture of water and soot from the exhaust pipe. My engine ran rich causing soot to build up in the pipe. I suspect yours is doing the same thing. If it's really bad it could be a blown head gasket causing coolant to enter the combusion chamber, vaproize then condense in your exhaust. In that case your exhaust will smell like antifreeze.

Nice writeup Daeron! I was being lazy and just answered the question. Years ago I messed around with the FI on my old '76 Z. One thing I learned is that the AFM and FI temperature sensor are the most important parts of the system to determine mixture. I agree with Daeron, don't mess with the AFM unless you really know what you are doing. Make absolutely sure the temp sensor is working correctly and that it's connector and the bullet connector before it are clean and free of corrosion. The system works off resistance readings. Corrosion increases the resistance thus making the computer think the engine is cold. If the computer thinks the engine is cold, it dumps more fuel causing the engine to run rich. Also clean all the other connectors in the system. Deoxit is a good cleaner. I used and a small piece of fine grit sand paper shoved between the contacts in the connectors to help removes some of the thick corrosion. Good luck.

I didn't realize other people could post in this thread. It's cool, I like feedback. I abandoned the manifold for several reasons. First, I convinced myself that it would never stop warping due to the design and lack of flexible bellows. I feel that the stock, cast manifold is probably the most reliable option for a street car like mine. Second, for my power goals the header is probably overkill. I think jeffp was making over 500 HP with a stock ported manifold. Third, I didn't like where it placed the turbo. The compressor outlet was in-line the strut tower and close to the A/C. I would clear the strut tower needed a pretty tight bend. I never could figure out a good routing around the A/C and air filter...although I didn't try too hard. I hope that clears it up. Thanks for the feedback! Cheers, Ross

There is no simple screw to adjust the mixture. The Air Flow Meter (AFM) determines the mixture. You have to tighten the spring on the flapper inside the AFM to lean out the mixture.