rossman

Take the head off, clean it and carefully inspect it. Take close up pictures of the block deck, gasket and head and post them here. We can help. It may be obvious that the head has a crack in it. If it has a crack then buy a known good one. Or get a junk yard head and have it rebuilt.

I don't think there is anyone offering these parts. You might be able to get a drive shaft shop to make you one. Have you sent Ross money? I bought adapters from him a few months ago. I just paid for them thru his website and he replied promptly. I don't believe he has ever completely stiffed anybody.

I ended up not removing the inner CV on the second shaft. I just blasted it with a whole can of brake parts cleaner, wash it with detergent, rinsed it with clean water then blew out the remaining water with compressed air. There were no signs of the old grease.

Where did the shaft break? I don't think any other axle has the same bolt pattern so you'll have to find another 280zxt set. I see them periodically on this site and Ebay. How much torque are you pumping out? You might want to consider upgrading to a stronger Z31t setup. The CVs are known to be stronger. You will have to buy the CV shafts and new Modern Motorsports adapters. If you don't already have 280z axles you'll have to upgrade those too.

Hmmm, nobody eh? I'm thinking I may try to clean out the old grease without separating the CV from the shaft. Maybe just soak it in solvent then blast it with brake parts cleaner. The boot can slide on from the opposite side.

I started replacing my Z31 turbo half shaft boots this past weekend. It took much longer than expected. Seems like everything does these days . The outer CV was no problem. I just removed the outer snap ring and the cage slid right off. The inner CV was not so easy. I read another post on here that advised simply hammering it off with a dead blow hammer. I did that and ended up breaking the c-clip (or whatever it's called) and chipping the shaft splines. No big deal I guess. The replacement boot kit came with a new clip and the chipped splines are on the unloaded portion of the shaft (between the groove and the tip). Apparently, the c-clip is big enough and the groove is deep enough such that the c-clip can stick completely outside of the groove. When this happened it got wedged between the shaft OD and cage ID and sheared off. I think what is supposed to happen is that the chamfer on the cage causes to c-clip to compress radially until it sinks into the shaft groove and the cage slides past. Anybody know a trick to get the shaft out without shearing off the c-clip? I still have the other one to do and I'd rather not break it too .

I sleep boosted too! You're gonna be amazed how much better you will feel after you actually sleep.

My '76 280z was fun, reliable transportation for me during college...wait, that was 20 years ago...never mind! Agree with previous comments. Get yourself a fairly low mileage Honda/Toyota/Nissan to carry you thru college. Once you graduate and get a steady job then play around with project cars.

In case anyone actually tries this...I wouldn't recommend getting under that heavy chunk of metal with only a hydraulic lift supporting it. I've seen hydraulic jacks fail. You wouldn't want to under the supported load when one did. Put something solid underneath it.

I test fit my brakes today. I knew it was going to be close with 15" wheels but it looks like there is adequate clearance. The Panasports have a +19 offset. The 25mm spacers put the offset close to where it's supposed to be and allow the calipers to clear the wheel. It's funny how this worked out. I no intention to use these brakes when I bought the wheels. If the wheels had the proper offset then the calipers would not fit and spacers would put the wheels outside the wheel wells. I guess I got lucky for once. In other news, I sold my custom exhaust manifold on ebay. I'm just going to go with a ported stock manifold with a welded on external wastegate. Here is the setup. AZC Racing Brakes with Wilwood calipers and 25 mm thick 4 x 114.3 spacers. Fits like a glove. Looks like about 1/8" to 3/16" clearance to the balancing weights. The fronts fit as well. Ignore the stock disks. I'm just test fitting for now.

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that they are both junk. So I would choose neither one.

Very nice. Did PowerFab make that for you? Is that an MV-S wastegate? How does it perform? Any boost spikes?

Buy the Holset turbo I have for sale on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260558001678&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT

I'm going to agree with Rolling Parts here. Fiero's were built from GM's spare parts bin. The engine and drive train were from the lovely Phoenix/Citation - except mounted in the back with the steering capability of the wheels locked out. The front suspension was from the even more lovable Chevette. My mom owned an '80 Phoenix . That thing was the biggest POS. It lived at the dealer. I think we had the transmission replaced 3 times over it's life. The carb had a bad habit of dying in a turn if you tried to accelerate. I'm also not a big fan of the SHO. Ugly, very ugly. Seems like a collectors car would at least have to have good looks.

Where the heck is a setting for "iphone layout?" How about a Nexus One or Android layout?

I need a N/A pan not a turbo pan. I'll be making my own return port.

WTB 280zx rear sump oil pan, shipped to 77586

I just noticed one of reddat's auction has a reasonable shipping cost shown in the auction. I don't remember his auctions ever showing a shipping cost. I wonder if reddat got the message?

i agree that the window treatment does wonders for the 2+2 looks. I also like the integrated air dam. Very nice!

Jeff, Have you talked to Derek about making the castings? He cast a beautiful ITB setup from aluminum: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129941 Ross

It's been a while so I thought I'd give an update in case anybody is wondering what's going on. I made a little progress with the rear end. I had a local good ol' boy shop install my new rear wheel bearings. Everything went well until I got them home and realized they forgot to pack the bearings with grease...the grease that I provided. I called him up and he admitted his mistake and offered to make it right. In the mean time I picked up a front and rear Arizona Z Car Wilwood brake setup. I figured that if this car is going to be as fast as I think it's going to be then I'll need it to stop fast too. I got a pretty good deal on the brake setup from David K on this board. Thanks David! The brakes haven't actually arrived yet so I don't have any pictures except this one from his ad: I may strip or paint the caliper back to the original black. I'm not a big fan of the bling effect. Anyway, with this setup you have to remove the stub axles. So I guess I'll be paying another $50 to have the axles and bearings pressed out and back in again! I got a set of 780cc Precision injectors off ebay. They should have way more than enough capacity for my goal. I also removed the fuel tank and cleaned it out. I'm going to have a sump welded in by Moyer Fuel Tank Renu. I got the idea from a thread on this board. The guys there are very knowledgeable and helpful. The local shops I talked to were not so helpful and wanted to charge me the same amount of money to do it without baffles. I think most of those guys deal with American muscle drag cars so baffling isn't so important. I dunno.

Replace the bolts with new ones. For what it's worth my Rebello built engine has stock nissan turbo head bolts. Dave told me he the same bolts on his race engines. I'm not going to question it.

Yes it will bolt on. It's not ideal but you will probably not notice a difference.

Call up Powertrain Industries: http://www.powertrainindustries.com/catalogs.htm I got one made for my Z32 gearbox to Z31 LSD differential for ~$350 + shipping.

Thanks for the feedback. I talked with the guy who did the work. He told me that he did fill the internal cavity with grease. Not the whole cavity, just the areas around the axle. He admitted that he did not pack the bearings. At least he is honest. If it doesn't hurt the bearings then I think I'll just have the guy remove the axle, pack the bearings and reinstall.