AkumaNoZeta

Don't forget to put some kind of lock on the wheels for when you're into the game. You don't want to be rolling away from the controls. I love it so far, I've always wanted to do something like that.

I'm going to say he clocked them that way so he can read them easier through the openings of the smaller steering wheel. I'd like to upgrade my gauges too but I don't want to have a whole bunch, there was a write up on this forum where someone was showing how to put two digital gauges together in one cup to replace the smaller ones in the middle of the dash in a factory-like manner but I spent the past 4 hours looking for it again and can't find it. I'd like to have the dual gauges with more accurate "guts" and replace the clock with a AFR/Boost gauge but the that one would be better to have in digital format for ease of use.

I read something recently that may be of interest to people thinking about a 13B swap. You can remove the bellhousing from the RX7 transmission and put it on a transmission from a B2600 and that would move the shifter up 6" meaning you can put the engine 6" further back into the engine bay. Here's the link http://www.projectzerog.com/rx7transmissions.shtml

I can't find photos of this particular kind of engine because I don't know what's it called and have no idea what it could be called. It's a V8 where the exhaust comes out of the top where you normally see the intake and the intakes are on the sides. I think they look cool, but I've only see it in a book, I think it was a CanAm car. I don't remember the book because it was so long ago. Can anybody help me?

If you're a big V8 fan then I bet you know the "no replacement for displacement" rule. You mention "burn my pockets for labor". I think both those V8s are the same size so the labor for the swap would probably be the same.

Have you checked out APR?

I have the Haynes manual for the 240Z, 260Z, and 280Z. I don't like the wiring diagrams they have in there, they're so small that you can barely make out what the words are and it's too easy to be following one wire and cross over onto another one. The 240Z diagrams aren't so bad because they're pretty simple, but good luck trying to read anything in the 260Z ones. It is a pretty old manual, I don't know if they would have upgraded it though.

Looks photo chopped to me, but I'm not an expert on that. First thing that came to mind when I saw it was "Lotus Elise".

Is the factory proportioning valve dysfunctional? What the factory one does is make sure the front brakes don't apply before the rears, right? Are people only replacing them so they can tune the bias or because there's something wrong with the factory piece?

I walked through the park in the snow just now. It has a windy, 8 foot wide paved trail going all around it. When I looked back I noticed a pattern in my foot steps, I was actually going in wide and hitting the apexes like when on a track. It was at that moment that I realized that park would be perfect for solo go-kart runs. I wonder why they never did that here in this town before. I'm going to talk to some go-kart people and see if they would be interested in starting a little thing.

That's epic, I've never seen a clutch fork fail like that.

Do you have pictures? It sounds interesting.

I found pictures of that about a year or so ago. I thought it looked awesome, I'd like to make a clone based off of it one day. I'd also like to make a clone of a Toyota 2000GT using a 2JZ too.

The thing I hate the most is slim profile tires, it's my pet peeve. If it had an LS1 and was RWD with a real dual exhaust it wouldn't be AS bad.

I'm been watching a lot of Japanese movies lately to be exact. Here's what I've watched so far: Battle Royale Suicide Club Noriko's Dinner Table (Sequal to Suicide Club) Azumi Attack Girl's Swim Team Vs. The Undead Battlefield Baseball Stacy: Attack of the Schoolgirl Zombies Tokyo Rampage Audition The Machine Girl Uzumaki And I have pages of others titles that I haven't watched yet. Out of the list of those I watched already the only one I didn't like was the Swim Team Vs. The Undead one. And Battlefield Baseball is the funniest movie I've seen by far. I guess until I can find someone with a trailer to haul my Z to my garage so I can work on it, I just don't have anything else to do. It's funny too, I'm in the middle of redneck country and I can't find anybody with a running truck or a trailer...

If you read the blocking off thread that's in the Sticky section of this aero sub-forum then you'll probably get more information than you need.

I thought about putting vents behind the wheels but I rather keep as close to the factory look as possible so I won't do it until I feel I need the extra venting and with working the wheel arch correctly and the hood vents I hope I won't need them. My car won't have inside wheel well with tubed front end. The 1/3 thing comes from the other thread in this forum, it states that you only need an opening 1/4 of the area of the radiator to get the proper amount of air flow through it while moving, but should be upped to 1/3 if it's a street car and therefore has to sit in traffic. This is with ducting though, without ducting the air would go around the radiator and cause overheating problems.

When I get around doing this with my car I will actually be blocking off the lower portion and blocking off the top half too except for a little bit in the middle of the top half that will have the area of 1/3 the radiator's area. I want to completely block off the bottom because I plan on running 1.5" flares similar to the Subtle Z ones (in fact I want to use Subtle Z fenders with a MSA Type 1 air dam modified to it) with a concave front of the flare and I want to make as much air flow go across that as I can to help pull air out of the wheel wells and it's more concave on the bottom than the top so it would be more effective at the bottom. Purely all theory but I believe it will work. The whole idea is to block unnecessary amounts of air so it doesn't build up in front of the car, it shouldn't matter if you have the bottom or top blocked.

Just like everybody else, I like the gold.

I wish I could drive like that. I would be the talk of the town. I can scream out "Can your hydraulics do this?" to all the low-riders.

If it were me I would remove ALL the rust from the factory pieces and weld the Bad Dog units over them after a good spray down with weld-thru primer to prevent rust. I would also try plug welding the Bad Dogs to the factory ones for more strength, that's just me though. I would do everything possible to make sure it doesn't rust inside-out and then do everything possible to make sure it doesn't run on the outside either, I have rustphobia.

I wouldn't mind seeing some pictures. The only car I've seen with the exhaust coming out of the air dam in front of the wheels was a AWD Eclipse drag car.

Instead of drilling all the holes, what about getting some steel mesh and wrap it around a tube to get the diameter. Pack the fiberglass around it and tack it onto tubing for the inlet and outlet, etc. etc. Would the mesh work better to quiet it up since it would be more open?

I like this one http://cs.scaleautomag.com/scacs/forums/t/87013.aspx Cool site though, I wish there was still a store around here that sold model kits.

I'm glad I entertained a couple people for a few seconds.