quicker240

I'm gonna have to call BS on Rags here.Pulled the carriers from both diffs.The ring gear bolts on the q45 diff are easily twice the size of the r200 open diff ring gear bolts.I have pics to back me up,but I dont know how to upload them to the site.BTW,the ring gear count is 46:13 or 3.53:1 as far as the q45 diff is concerned.Anyone wants pics I can email them to you.Got all excited for nothing.Rats.

How come I'm always the last to know!? You are all gonna have to excuse me now while I go down and start tearing down some diffs in the garage.This info could have some serious money saving involved so I'll take a few pics as I go.I sure hope your right Rags! I could have a posi by Reynolds now.

OK,after doing a quick search,I'm still a bit fuzzy here on VLSD swap info.Can the R200VLSD(Q45) carrier assy be swapped into a stock long nose 280Z open diff housing?If so can someone post me a link to that info?I aready have the following parts on hand. 1.a couple of spare long nose stock R200's 2.A Q45 vlsd r200 3.280zx CV axles 4.Access to another 91 Q45 car complete minus some body parts and dissasembled engine. Given the parts on hand,whats my most cost effective way into a posi here?

So your stock 87 with a bad starter goes 12 flat at 122mph in the quarter huh?I'd personally appreciate it if you did'nt bother offending some quality efforts and accomplishments by other REAL members here with your poor grammer,spelling,and outright LYING in the timeslip area.Guys here work hard and spend real money making Z cars fly.We need no PUNK TROLLS.Great 1st post.

Subtle,yet stern and informative.I love sign language.

thats a 3 year old thread pal,but I'm sure he'll appreciate your thoughtful reply.I highly reccomend you read ALL the stickys before posting again,or your stay could be short.Welcome anyway,and read,read ,read!!

If it makes the power you are shooting for,it should be solidly in the 11's.Looks great and good luck with it.Come spank some V8 booty at Reynolds!

The engine bay is the same size on all 280zx's as well as 70-78 Z's.This site has always been receptive to ANY modification.The members here have extensive knowledge of most performance enhancing changes you can do to a Z car or engine of ANY origin.Obviously,our experience is slanted in the direction of the parts we have easiest access to,but new ideas are welcomed and appreciated.You will not find a better source of information anywhere on the net for these cars,and if you do,please send us a link,nicely!

Just go to your local speed shop and buy a plate kit.It should include everything you need to get a basic system up and running.Go to NOS or Zex or Nitrous works web sites for some technical reading and chat with the local gearheads.A 100 shot can pick you up 6 or 7 10ths in a 1/4 in a Z car(at least thats what happened in mine!).Take care with the tuning to avoid backfires(large flames) and lean conditions(terminal engine meltdown).Nitrous is like Liquor.A little bit is fun,but get carried away, and your in for BIG problems.Just do your homework.

I ordered the GC plates a couple of years ago.I set them over the top of the existing stock setup and just like the red car pictured,the installed plates were bottomed out on negative camber adjustment just for a normal alignment,yet had an inch and a half of positive adjustment?what the hell good is that? I was autocrossing at the time and was looking for adding some negative camber.For 500 bucks,these plates looked about useless to me,so I sent 'em back and just got the weld ins from Arizona Z.Street alignment is about midway in the plate with lots of room for negative camber adj. .Maybe I was looking at it all wrong or something,but is'nt neg camber what your looking for here?

If you have play in the joints,it was definately a bad install.Its easy to have a single roller in a joint cap slip out of place and get jammed underneath.This would account for the squeak.When its replaced again,you'll most likely find the culprit.A big PITA but stuff happens.At least you know which joint to replace now,and a single joint is not very expensive.Maybe the shop will redo it for cost of the part?Good luck!

I got PUNKED!!

There was a thread not too long ago discussing this topic.Shift points will vary from gear to gear based on a few factors such as cam profile,gearing,tire size and so on.A dyno run should tell you where your motor is at its happy point,my guess on a mild 350 with basic mods,3500-5000rpm range somewhere.Upgrades to cam,valvetrain,exhaust and so on could move this number around quite a bit.Up as far as 7k on a 350.A dyno is the best way to know really,but seat of the pants and time slips with an experienced racer will be more fun.Finding a car similar in setup to your own will likely give you a good baseline also.Sorry to muddy up the water here.Hell,just set the light to 5k and let 'er rip.

Go to pull-a-part,get a good alt and tranny(300 bucks tops).Get the exhaust done,400 should get you a pretty nice 3in system.1000 on the lotus.You can upgrade the tranny and exhaust later when funds present themselves.Do I get a trophy now?

I dont know if anyone would agree with this method,but every injected Z I have ever resurrected,I check for voltage at the pump with a test light 1st(usually has power),then beat on the blasted thing with a hammer till it frees back up.Usually gets it going,but a new pump is likely in your near future.Good luck(and drain that old gas before you run the crud through your whole system).

welcome,and DANG that car is a BEAST!

Happened to me before too.Usually either bends the TC rod or bends the saddle it mounts to WAY in,this accounts for the height drop also.Take a close look at rear Tension Compression rod rear mount saddle on the frame rail.The whole wheel assy is moved back causing severe positive camber as well as toe problems.Its usually pretty easy to spot the bent stuff from underneath the car.Unfortunately,the rear TC saddle is a welded on part and if its bent up,you'll be headed to the body shop.Good luck with it!

You may not be as bad off as you think.Looks like a lot of sheetmetal damage to me,but not unrepairable at all.Be able to tell more when the hood opens.The fact that the doors are not moved is a GREAT sign.Personally,I would fix that car in a minute.Tough break for sure but think of all those BRAND NEW parts you get to put on.I would try to get a reasonable settlement based on an outside paint shop,and reassemble the front clip myself(depending on the underneath damage).Maybe let the pros do the rear quarter and paint it all.Just another option/opinion I guess,lookin for the bright side.I just hate letting other people work on my car if I dont completely trust them,like shortcut body shops and hack job painters.

I guess one jet engine just was'nt enough.I like the "cleaning out the garage" part.Priceless.

Honestly,I am still a bit fuzzy on trans control.I need to figure out exactly how the computer controls it.If its just a matter of on/off solenoids,then I should be able to rig something up,probably with switches on the shifter.It may have a dedicated trans controller that takes inputs from several sources such as vac,TPS,speed, and who knows what else.In which case things get more interesting.The megasquirt has several unused outputs that may be useable for this function,i dont know.I'm sure manual shifting is possible as a last resort,but not much fun for street driving(which I can live with on this mainly track based car).Just looking for a simpler and less costly way to do this than an expensive AEM type control unit which may not be able to do it either.On a side note,its been quite a while since I've heard anything about the blue Japan twin turbo car.Did it ever actually move under its own power?Did he ever make a pass at the track? Seems like a pretty expensive project to have been abandoned before completion.Puttin 'em together is sometimes the easy part,making them work right is another thing altogether.I never saw what type of fuel and ignition control be used,but the coil on plugs were still on it as I recall.Any more detail on that car could be handy if he was willing to share a few secrets.I'd also be interested in what system the 300zx/q45 engine car in Atlanta used,my guess is factory computer with external timing and fuel control for boost.The info hunt goes on....

I think you're going in the right direction here.Looking at the lower plenum,the intake tracks are TINY.Plenty of room to improve.Having a source for headers would be nice but I'm counting on having to fab a set.I like the intake setup on the twin turbo car and will probably do something similar in function but not divided in half.Looked to me like he reversed the injectors from inboard to outboard,which I like a lot.I have just finished the Megasquirt and plan on using the EDIS Ford stuff after a bit more research.Have already scrounged up most of the components,EDIS8 module and coil packs.Base programming parameters should be similar to a 4.6 liter Ford 4 cam motor.Cams are a bit pricey so I plan on spraying the crap out of it as Q45s in the junk yard are pretty pleniful around here.I think 450-500 HP in NA form is a more reasonable estimate of power potential,but hell,what do I know.I just think an all nissan V8 S30 is gonna ROCK! Just gotta make that slushbox crap of a tranny hold up somewhere within reason.A tranny shop on my route seems to think he can stall a converter for me.I hope it will hold up a bit better in a 2700lb car,but I dont have my hopes up.Soon as the chassis gets home from paint jail,I'm getting this project underway.I'm stoked,can you tell?