Leon

Yep, ask JohnC here, he runs Beta Motorsports. He has done this kind of work countless times.

You shouldn't lower a Z more than about 2" unless you're sectioning the struts. As Stepan mentions, there will be little bump travel left in your suspension.

That is exactly what I've been getting in my 260Z around 75mph, it happens under load but seemingly moreso at lift throttle conditions. Looks like I'll have to check out my mount as well. The diff is strapped down tight.

To all Bay Area guys: I want to give the exhaust shop a plug, as it's well deserved. I'm not getting a discount or anything like that, this guy simply did a great job! When I decided it was time to look for a shop to build a custom exhaust, I decided to search online reviews and stop by the top-reviewed shops to get estimates. I stopped by six places or so and decided to go with Exhaust Works in Belmont. A cool guy named Todd runs the shop and not only is he clearly experienced, but he was easy to talk to, does quality work and above all gave me a fantastic price (as he does with everyone judging by yelp)! Todd got the exhaust done quickly and did everything I asked him to while his attitude was always courteous and professional. If I need any exhaust work done again on any car, or if my friends do, I will definitely be going to or recommending Todd! I'll post pics in a bit. My header-back twice pipe system with 4 glasspacks, chrome tips and 02 sensor bungs cost $300! Yes, $300!!!

I've heard very good things about Sunrise Z in Glendale. I also know of Classic Datsun, and know they do top notch stuff, not sure how they are with swaps though.

Got the Z back last Thursday and drove to Sacramento and back over the weekend! Everything went great, besides some vapor lock issues that creeped up on me in the hotter climate. I don't currently have a heat shield but will be building one. The quick solution was to pop the hood open to vent excess heat, which did help somewhat. I also mounted my MOMO wheel. I took measurements to compare and see if the MOMO sits any closer to me. Turns out, using the MOMO hub adapter and MOMO Race wheel has no change in front-back steering wheel position! I'm happy with the new wheel but it definitely does require quite a bit more muscle at low speeds. I do really like the rim material and the quicker steering it gives. I have some crappy videos of the new exhaust but I might as well post them. I'll make better ones when I get the time. The exhaust setup is a Nissan Motorsports header with long, equal-length primaries dumping into twin 2" pipes, with two glasspacks in the tunnel and two in the back. I love twice pipes!!!

Gotcha! I will definitely make the BBQ, especially now that I have more confidence in the Z. I drove the 260 to Citrus Heights and back to the bay this weekend so I was up close to where you're at. It was great to finally have the Z out on the open road. See you Sunday!

Rej, my comment was directed to the OP. Gear reduction starters have benefits, slapping a starter on with consideration for nothing but sound doesn't.

You want to go through the effort to change out the starter of your car purely to make it sound different?

You've managed to violate multiple forum rules and also post in the wrong section.

Great work! One tip: I would do the spindle pins while you're there already. Even though it can be a significant undertaking, I've found that a solid day (5-7 hours) is usually enough to get both out, less if you're lucky, maybe more if unlucky. Time flies when you're having fun... I would recommend getting a spindle pin puller from jtburf on this site. Make sure to heat the living hell out of the strut casting and then turn the nut slowly. Make sure that the pin is actually budging by looking at the hole for the lock pin and seeing if the flat on the pin is moving. I cleaned up and reused my lock pin, and there is no need to do wheel bearings unless there's a problem, maybe just repack then. I did not mess with bearings, but new spindle pins (with anti-seize all over them) and poly bushings are well worth it!

I'm guessing Derek's using his custom ITBs and EDIS? Derek, are you running TPS or MAP based fueling? Also, do you have your ignition map set up with idle timing slightly retarded and the cells around idle advanced? This makes for a more stable idle.

Good job on finding the issue. I would suggest that since you now have the angles and parts where you want them, mark the diff and trans mounts on the mount and body. Therefore, If you ever have to pull them out, you can simply align the marks when you put them back in.

I don't have any of those numbers. I don't drag race my Z, I take it for weekend drives and will be starting autocross soon and the car feels very well suited for that. If I had to guess, 0-60 is somewhere in the 7's but that's the "butt dyno" talking. I'm hoping I can extract some more high-end power with tuning, but low-end and midrange are great with my current engine. It's nice to start from a low baseline and work your way up as you go, performing only those modifications you deem necessary after driving the car for a while. It gives a very good feel for what needs to be done and what doesn't need to be done, although usually the former largely overshadows the latter! Re-reading my first posts, I may have been a bit blunt, but the truth is that's how I learned about Z's (or anything else for that matter). I can't even recall how much time I spent researching this stuff, and what was great was that I didn't have to post a single question. I always found my answer when I searched, with the additional benefit of finding other interesting information branching off of my original topic. Each search turned into a spider-web of multiple windows and tabs with great information (make sure to bookmark). The info is out there, and the further you dig, the more gold you find.

In your first post you seem to want 200lb-ft out of your engine. Here's the question you have to answer, have you ridden in/driven a Z with 200lb-ft of torque? Have you ridden in/driven a well-tuned stock Z? I have a build thread (with a long first post) here, but I'll summarize some of my experiences, in a nutshell. My early 260Z has an L24/E88 out of a '72 240Z. I feel like this engine is plenty for the car as I use it mainly for street driving, and soon some autocross as well. The L24 with triple Webers and bigger exhaust (stock manifold) put out 121hp and 136lb-ft. There were no carb or timing adjustments made at all. Since we're talking numbers here I'll point out that this was done on a brake dyno, not a purely inertial one like a Dynojet, which inflates power numbers. The car also has a stock '72 cam. With my 280Z 5-speed, I can take off in second gear from a standstill with no problem whatsoever. Torque is strong from 1000rpm all the way to 5500-6000rpm. This can be further improved upon with some tuning. That would be the stock cam. I haven't felt the need to change out the cam, for now at least. Basically, what I am suggesting is to put together the most reliable and well-tuned setup together that you can. Modifications can always be made down the road. There's no need to go wild, especially if you haven't driven a Z with a healthy engine. If I were starting from scratch with your parts, I'd go N42/E31 or N42/E88 with triples (SUs would be ok too), big exhaust, 5-speed, and 3.9 diff. Make sure your suspension and brakes are fresh as well and you'll have one hell of a fun car for the street and occasional autoX.

:shock: You sir, are definitely insane, but in a good way! This is incredible, can't wait to see how it goes. Way to go, I need to read this whole thread now...

And yes, please search. Every question you have has already been answered.

Oiluj on CZCC has a Rebello 2.7L. A block doesn't have exhaust liners, a head might. The N42 does not have these, the N47 and P79 do.

Why is the brake cylinder leaking? It will leak if the seal doesn't seal anymore, as the above post mentions. You don't have to get new wheel cylinders as rebuild kits are available. Just make sure to clean up the bore of the cylinder. Rockauto is good for replacement parts.

Love that sound!

Nice M, I'm sure the purists cringe but that's some nice, quality work!

Thanks, but you're just a bit late. I picked up a Momo last week and got the hub in the mail yesterday. I've already put in a new shift boot and knob in, so that's taken care of. Thanks for the offer though, I'm sure someone will snag it soon!

No problem, and please make sure your brakes are in good shape before driving on public streets. After sitting for so long, there may be issues. Check the master cylinder, calipers and rear wheel cylinders for leakage. I would bleed the brakes as well.

Zcars are notorious for this issue, especially 260Zs which tend to have these problems most often. I solved the low voltage issue by installing a Bosch-style 30A relay between the ignition switch and solenoid. So now I have a relay triggering a relay (solenoid) which then triggers the starter. The PO wired in a button (shorting all gauges and signals in the process) which did start the car every time, but when I restored the wiring back to original I'd get the 5-20 clicks then start. The relay solved that problem and it's small in size so it can be eaily mounted close by the battery. This process is well documented if you search google. I seem to remember someone tracing ignition wires and totaling up their length to 44 feet of wire or so. Over the years, connectors corrode, resistance builds and voltage drops. Meticulously cleaning every connector might work, but I took the easy way out. Of course, a crappy starter is a different story...

You may be mistaking the 944 for its less attractive, worse performing, blacksheep brother, the 924. That thing has more VW and Audi in it then Porsche.