Leon

Could be, but first thing I'd do is pop the valve cover off, especially since it's a fresh engine. Check valve clearances and that everything is tight.

That would be an intercooler and aftercooler! The word intercooler is improperly used most of the time. Technically, most "intercoolers" people talk about are actually aftercoolers. And that's my fun fact of the day!

I'm planning to install EDIS in my Z using Derek's trigger wheel and sensor mount. I plan to use Megajolt to control spark while keeping my triples, along with the rest of my engine the way it is. This means that I'm keeping the stock clutch fan and do not plan to use an e-fan. The problem is that apparently there is interference between the stock fan and VR sensor mount. The first solution I thought of was to make a spacer. The spacer would be very simple, but it would require custom machining and new fasteners for the fan. I decided to search to see if others have faced this problem and how they solved it. Somewhat accidentally, I discovered that the 280ZX cooling fan extends further towards the radiator than the S30 unit in order to accomodate a three-row damper. If you think of the cooling fan as analogous to an automotive wheel, imagine that the cooling fan's "offset" went from positive (S30) to negative (S130), thereby extending the fan towards the radiator. What I need is for someone to measure a 280ZX fan width and distance from the front-most part of the fan to the hub. A ZX fan is identified by the mounting hub being at the back of the fan. Or, maybe someone has experience running a 280ZX fan in an S30? I'm using a 2-row Champion e-bay radiator, and there is currently a little over and inch of radiator-to-fan clearance. 240Z Fan 280ZX Fan

The previous exhaust was just a pipe off the stock manifold to a straight-through muffler at the end. It was loud and had terrible resonance. Currently, each pipe has a glasspack in the tunnel and a smaller one at the end. There is very little resonance, and it's not too loud on the freeway anymore, which is great! I can have a conversation and somewhat hear the radio as well. It's just really loud at WOT, especially past 3500rpm, and while it sounds good I think it might attract some unwanted attention. The one thing I don't like about the install is that one of the pipes passes under the differential, effectively blocking the rear jacking point. I suppose I can jack it up by the curved transverse link bar (the one that hold the back bushings of the LCAs), but I feel iffy about placing a bending load on that bar since it locates the LCAs.

Got a better video, sorry about girlfriend yelling to someone we know at the start! Not sure what I think about the exhaust, I love the twice pipes I feel a little obnoxious when I get on it. I also need to schedule another dyno run to see the effect of the twice pipes.

Sure. My experience tells me that this post is going to the tool shed for breaking forum rules...

I got 2 grade 8 bolts from the local hardware store for my endlinks, the ES ones were too short. I have the size and length written down somewhere...

Thanks for the extra info, I'm not from the area so my info comes from word-of-mouth (key?).

I don't know what's funnier, the first post or the second!

I'm interested when you do another run as well. Derek (or anyone using the setup), do you know if there will be any interference if I'm using a stock clutch cooling fan instead of an e-fan?

Holy crap! :shock:

Yep, ask JohnC here, he runs Beta Motorsports. He has done this kind of work countless times.

You shouldn't lower a Z more than about 2" unless you're sectioning the struts. As Stepan mentions, there will be little bump travel left in your suspension.

That is exactly what I've been getting in my 260Z around 75mph, it happens under load but seemingly moreso at lift throttle conditions. Looks like I'll have to check out my mount as well. The diff is strapped down tight.

To all Bay Area guys: I want to give the exhaust shop a plug, as it's well deserved. I'm not getting a discount or anything like that, this guy simply did a great job! When I decided it was time to look for a shop to build a custom exhaust, I decided to search online reviews and stop by the top-reviewed shops to get estimates. I stopped by six places or so and decided to go with Exhaust Works in Belmont. A cool guy named Todd runs the shop and not only is he clearly experienced, but he was easy to talk to, does quality work and above all gave me a fantastic price (as he does with everyone judging by yelp)! Todd got the exhaust done quickly and did everything I asked him to while his attitude was always courteous and professional. If I need any exhaust work done again on any car, or if my friends do, I will definitely be going to or recommending Todd! I'll post pics in a bit. My header-back twice pipe system with 4 glasspacks, chrome tips and 02 sensor bungs cost $300! Yes, $300!!!

I've heard very good things about Sunrise Z in Glendale. I also know of Classic Datsun, and know they do top notch stuff, not sure how they are with swaps though.

Got the Z back last Thursday and drove to Sacramento and back over the weekend! Everything went great, besides some vapor lock issues that creeped up on me in the hotter climate. I don't currently have a heat shield but will be building one. The quick solution was to pop the hood open to vent excess heat, which did help somewhat. I also mounted my MOMO wheel. I took measurements to compare and see if the MOMO sits any closer to me. Turns out, using the MOMO hub adapter and MOMO Race wheel has no change in front-back steering wheel position! I'm happy with the new wheel but it definitely does require quite a bit more muscle at low speeds. I do really like the rim material and the quicker steering it gives. I have some crappy videos of the new exhaust but I might as well post them. I'll make better ones when I get the time. The exhaust setup is a Nissan Motorsports header with long, equal-length primaries dumping into twin 2" pipes, with two glasspacks in the tunnel and two in the back. I love twice pipes!!!

Gotcha! I will definitely make the BBQ, especially now that I have more confidence in the Z. I drove the 260 to Citrus Heights and back to the bay this weekend so I was up close to where you're at. It was great to finally have the Z out on the open road. See you Sunday!

Rej, my comment was directed to the OP. Gear reduction starters have benefits, slapping a starter on with consideration for nothing but sound doesn't.

You want to go through the effort to change out the starter of your car purely to make it sound different?

You've managed to violate multiple forum rules and also post in the wrong section.

Great work! One tip: I would do the spindle pins while you're there already. Even though it can be a significant undertaking, I've found that a solid day (5-7 hours) is usually enough to get both out, less if you're lucky, maybe more if unlucky. Time flies when you're having fun... I would recommend getting a spindle pin puller from jtburf on this site. Make sure to heat the living hell out of the strut casting and then turn the nut slowly. Make sure that the pin is actually budging by looking at the hole for the lock pin and seeing if the flat on the pin is moving. I cleaned up and reused my lock pin, and there is no need to do wheel bearings unless there's a problem, maybe just repack then. I did not mess with bearings, but new spindle pins (with anti-seize all over them) and poly bushings are well worth it!

I'm guessing Derek's using his custom ITBs and EDIS? Derek, are you running TPS or MAP based fueling? Also, do you have your ignition map set up with idle timing slightly retarded and the cells around idle advanced? This makes for a more stable idle.

Good job on finding the issue. I would suggest that since you now have the angles and parts where you want them, mark the diff and trans mounts on the mount and body. Therefore, If you ever have to pull them out, you can simply align the marks when you put them back in.

I don't have any of those numbers. I don't drag race my Z, I take it for weekend drives and will be starting autocross soon and the car feels very well suited for that. If I had to guess, 0-60 is somewhere in the 7's but that's the "butt dyno" talking. I'm hoping I can extract some more high-end power with tuning, but low-end and midrange are great with my current engine. It's nice to start from a low baseline and work your way up as you go, performing only those modifications you deem necessary after driving the car for a while. It gives a very good feel for what needs to be done and what doesn't need to be done, although usually the former largely overshadows the latter! Re-reading my first posts, I may have been a bit blunt, but the truth is that's how I learned about Z's (or anything else for that matter). I can't even recall how much time I spent researching this stuff, and what was great was that I didn't have to post a single question. I always found my answer when I searched, with the additional benefit of finding other interesting information branching off of my original topic. Each search turned into a spider-web of multiple windows and tabs with great information (make sure to bookmark). The info is out there, and the further you dig, the more gold you find.