Leon

All tests are described in the FSM (Factory Service Manual), which can be downloaded from Xenon's site.

Not true. Not sure if you're familiar with the sticky in the exhaust sub-forum: exhaust tube sizing My apologies for the digression, but the myths must be corrected...

My memory is fuzzy on what's under the hood, but it may be a small block V8? I'm sure someone else will chime in with the details.

Funny, I have a Blaster 2 and was considering going back to stock! Glad you found your problem, now I need to fix mine!

Here it is: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/90750-check-out-this-crazy-280zx/

Yes, that is the car. However, in your first post, you did not include a photo and you stated that it is a ZX, which it is definitely not. I think you're getting mixed up. I remember seeing a ZX for sale with a cheesy body kit and a "model" in the photos, but it certainly wasn't the Z in this thread...

No way, this is completely different car. This is one, of the 2 or 3, S30s with the "Primadonna" kit, originating from a backyard in San Bruno, CA. Search Primadonna Z for more info.

Pressurized fuel? There is already a line venting the float bowl into the air cleaner. What Tony proposes doesn't change much of anything, just lets you see the float level.

FWIW, you don't move any gears when you shift, unless it's into reverse.

1UZ with ITBs? I want!!! Great build, I'd love to see the details.

Nothing that google can't help with... A quick search reveals that you have a "Euro" 240Z distributor converted from points to electronic. Per-Lux is now known as Pertronix and still makes the conversions.

That's awesome, love the three different takes.

I saw all three of them in his shop a little over a year ago, you guys don't even want to know what else was in there... Every time I stop by it's pure automotive nirvana, it just doesn't get any better.

You know, we can play the bench racing game, quote magazine and internet numbers all we want but it won't get you anywhere. You need a defined set of parameters which will constrain your design. Once the needs are nailed down, it becomes very easy to accomplish your goals. You state, and I infer, that your needs are almost purely subjective; the car must feel and sound fast, but must be smooth at idle and around town. Hell, slap on some triples and twice pipes, and you're good to go! There is no need for most of the stuff you list in your first post. I have a ton of fun with my triple carb'd, twice pipe, stock cam L24 that put down 121 hp/136 lb-ft (before the new exhaust and advanced timing, need to go back to dyno). It's smooth, torquey and makes all the right sounds. Just consider this, before delving further into this internet automotive gobbledegook.

195 degree thermostat? It's not winter, use a 180 degree, unless you're in a very hot climate in which case use the 160. I run an ebay 2 row radiator with no fan shroud and a 180 degree thermostat. Cools great.

Who knows, maybe someone thought they were progressive, and not synchronous carbs... Seems like whoever set them up had absolutely no idea what they were doing. You need to start over with these carbs, and a wideband O2 sensor goes a long way in telling you what's really going on. I run Webers so I can't give you numbers, but 130-140 mains will definitely work better than mismatched 95/105 mains. As far as tank pressure, I just don't see how it can be pressurized with the car running unless you somehow have more fuel coming back than leaving (if that is the case, tell me your secret). It's likely to drop in pressure without proper tank venting. I would put a string over the lip of the filler as I remove the cap to see which way the air is going. I bet it's drawing air in, sound can be deceiving.

Do you have mismatched main jets in each carb? How did you determine that your tank pressure is above atmospheric?

FWIW, there is no "grade 8" in metric fasteners. Metric class 10.9 would have similar strength to standard grade 8. Getting metric class 8.8 hardware would be like using standard grade 5. http://www.k-tbolt.com/bolt_chart.html

In my past FSAE engine project, we did engine dyno testing of 3 different plenum volumes (something like 1x, 2x, 4x displacement, need to look it up) and had the largest plenum tested give us the best results. Of course, the testing was done on a restricted 450cc single-cylinder engine, and may not mean anything to you. Honestly, the only way to really know is to make your plenum modular and go to the dyno. Good luck!

I used a flat-head screwdriver and a hammer, no dremel required!

The threads are BSPT (or BSPP?). BSPT would be tapered and BSPP is parallel threads, you should be able to tell by looking at or measuring the holes. NPT will fit but not seal as well due to different thread design, not sure how dramatic the difference would be with exhaust fumes though. You can use McMasterCarr to get the plugs as well.

Great input, I really appreciate it! Thanks for the heads-up HowlerMonkey, I wouldn't have thought to try different model clutches. I would definitely like to avoid any interference, but I don't do much high speed driving, just autoX for now. Hopefully, that problem will not manifest itself. Again, thanks for the great feedback!

(1) Cooling: the stock fan cools better, or least good enough for my application. Temps never rise, even in 100+ degree weather. (2) Simplicity: no need for putting in a new electrical circuit with the stock fan. (3) Electrical Load: would need to upgrade the already-weak stock alternator if using e-fan. (4) Cheaper Cool, sounds like it works but I would need a ZX fan clutch as well. I may be willing to take that spacer and studs off your hands if I don't use a ZX fan or am too lazy to make my own. Great idea on using PC or thin rings! I have an ebay 2-row Champion radiator that I believe is dimensionally equal to the stock unit. I measured current fan-to-radiator clearance at a bit over an inch using a '72 fan. Sounds like both options are viable, and it comes down to what is easier/costs less. A CNC-machined Titanium fan would be sweet but is not within the budget of this project! Thanks for your input, all!

This is exactly what is happening in my Z (triple Webers and headers) when it's hot out. It can get bad enough for me to have to pull over for a little bit. I don't have a heat shield though and am planning to make one next week. I'm hoping that it will solve my problems, but I guess we'll see. I'm also using a stock fuel rail and was thinking of insulating it at the mounting points to limit conductive heat transfer.

But in all seriousness, what is the point of this thread (and all threads like it)? I know this sounds blunt, but why not just run on the track and see what you get? Otherwise, this is just pointless bench-racing, d*ck swinging. My 2 cents...