Leon

Little-by-little, we're getting closer. I did a rocker arm wipe pattern check today and will be looking for sources where I can get some new, slightly smaller pads. This was expected as I got new rocker arms which probably have more material on them than my previous ones. I wish I still worked at a place with a surface grinder and magnetic table, where I could just toss them on the table and have at it...

Is it STILL not understood that the engine was tested first on some sort of engine dyno and then tested again on some sort of chassis dyno? How do you know that the actual loss is 70ft-lb? Neither of the two dynos are calibrated to any sort of standard as far as I'm aware. We're also throwing in different setups between the car being on Rebello's dyno and now? This entire thread is a complete non sequitur as far as making any sort of worthwhile comparison between dyno results.

5-40%, give or take a few. We've had an FC RX7 dyno at our shop to be classified in a NASA class. He originally put down 175whp on a roller. Then he went to another dyno shop (Dynapack) to get tuned and put down ~155whp. Finally, he went to our shop (Dynapack) for NASA classification and put down 127whp. That's a 25% difference in power between chassis dynos! Good luck getting a "crank" number from a chassis dyno, it's futile. As to limiting parasitic losses, that's the name of the game in racing. We've had race teams on our dyno, testing power gains based on what oil they use...

Good to hear from you, Ben! Email sent.

Thanks Brady! I didn't want to do the ports as not to mess up the taper in the intake. I did check to make sure that the runners match the ports via using the gasket as a template. All seems good!

LOL! That ties in nicely with this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/120420-king-z/?do=findComment&comment=1129308

Have you budgeted in that you will be paying at least $100/hr for a quality job? This sounds like hours of work and thousands of dollars waiting to happen. Hope you're prepared!

Nice pieces!

Finally some more progress! I helped a buddy do the first startup and break-in of his L30 last weekend and it seems to have reinvigorated the thirst of hearing my L28 purr again. I port-matched the TWM manifold on the carb side Friday after work and ground the areas where the intake flange interfered with the MSA 6-1 header flange yesterday. I touched up the affected areas with some new paint. Today, I got the carbies all mounted up along with the heat shield. The last bit left is to finalize how I want to do the linkage and then finally reinstall!

Wow, great work Tom! Looks like that blown shock didn't hinder you too much.

Changing the diff ratio has nothing to do with RPM drop, that's the job of the transmission ratios. The diff ratio changes the road speed at which you shift.

Nooooo! I agree, even if it's not deep, I'd be pissed beyond belief. Otherwise, your wiring project is shaping up to be very impressive. Keep up the great work!

Just saw this, probably too late since you're in Texas. I'll send you a PM anyway...

Wanna trade me? I'll make up the cost-difference. If the Jag calipers fit my 16" Panasports that is...

It's a typical S30 feature.

I have the same diff. It most likely came out of an HR31 GTS-R Nissan Skyline. Only 800 built for race homologation purposes... Edit: To clarify, the above are R200 units, not R180.

That could easily have been the valves out of adjustment and/or stretched timing chain. Did you check valve lash and cam timing? I don't want to jump to any conclusions but if the necessary diagnostic steps haven't been taken, it's difficult to recommend the next course of action. If you really want to know whether you should rebuild the bottom end, you now need to mic the bore for nominal size and taper. I can't tell you anything about the bearings unless you've been monitoring oil pressure. If it's an original Nissan bottom end and it hasn't been run low on oil or overly abused, there's a pretty good chance that the bearings are fine.

Yes. Cheers! You made some great contributions in your first few posts, welcome to HybridZ.

The linear speed of the rotor has nothing to do with braking torque. A longer lever arm (larger diameter rotor) will stop a car faster, given it has enough traction to sustain that deceleration. Yes, the linear speed will be higher and you would think that it would generate more heat but to generate the same brake torque from a smaller diameter rotor you must squeeze it harder, also generating more heat. Heat generated (friction) has more to do with the amount of kinetic energy the brakes are being asked to absorb. In other words, if we're talking speed, the important one is the speed of the car itself. Weight is the other part of the kinetic energy equation but this takes us into a whole different topic...

Nicely done Arne. The Brake Handbook is a great read for those interested, and cheap to boot!

As mentioned, there is no reverse gear syncro.

Tony's comments are spot on. And I would be amazed if it took anything near 4 hours with everything looking tidy and working properly.

Damn, good deal. I just looked back at my records and I paid $115 each (core included) for the Lincoln calipers. Major bummer about the brake master...

Hey Alec, everything is still sitting in storage here waiting for me to finally get the car running again before I take it up to the shop to do the work. The Jag calipers were cheaper? I ordered all the stuff a while ago but I think I got the steel ones because they must've been cheaper at the time. Hmm...