Leon

Tuning part-throttle on the dyno can be very taxing on the cooling system if there isn't enough airflow available for the radiator. A WOT pull takes 6-10 seconds. You can be holding a load at part-throttle for as long as you want, the dyno cooling fan(s) must absolutely be up for it. I don't know who Matt Shue is and I'm not saying anything about his work. Just brainstorming based on my own experience here. Like I said, if your cooling system isn't holding a vacuum, there is definitely a leak somewhere. It is not a dyno operator issue, or at least not anymore. Check compression and leak-down if there's nothing obvious.

Chemical test the coolant for combustion byproducts. Do a compression and leak-down check. Pop the radiator cap off and look for bubbles while checking leakdown. I would have guessed that they were doing a poor job of cooling it while on the dyno but the cooling system not being able to hold vacuum is worrisome.

Didn't see that originally, my mistake.

You have to realize the forces at play here. There's no way you're going to loosen up the camber plates and just push the struts out to decrease camber with the weight of the car on the struts. Raise the front end of the car and then give it another try. BTW, it's probably toe and not camber that's making the car difficult to move...

That's a dream garage right there!

Hell yeah! Great work Derek, way to be persistent and see it through!

Very nice, I like the use of bulkhead connectors there. Makes for easy engine pulls.

I was thinking the same thing!

It really helps to have built-in jacks on the 4-post, like the sliding ones in the middle of Hunter racks, especially if you plan on doing alignments. Looks like Bendpak has bridge jacks as an option for some lifts.

The NSX absolutely did have VTEC, it was Honda's first production vehicle with that system. Many, many other Honda V6s used VTEC as well...

Very cool, no wonder!

Love the knurling on the oil cap! Those Honda lash adjusters are great, super easy to use. Hopefully there is ample clearance to the fuel lines to get a feeler in there, hard to tell from that angle. This is turning out great, Derek!

Stop by the shop if you're around Sonoma. We're on-site at Sonoma Raceway: WORKS Motorsports 29673 Arnold Dr Sonoma, CA 95476 I'll be there until 2:30 tomorrow. There's a good number of Z and Nissan-heads at the track.

Glad to see you back at it!

FWIW, the spin was caused by lifting the throttle once the car started sliding. The throttle lift sent weight to the front tires, they suddenly gained grip while the rear lost even more causing an instant spin. Stay on the throttle as you make the steering correction so as not to further upset the chassis! Nice job on rebuilding the car, your perseverance is impressive.

Nice shots! The scenery reminds me of US-197 coming into The Dalles when road-tripping from SF to Seattle.

I went to the hardware store and got a new bolt. The one that comes with the kit is stupid short.

OSG provided the head. Z Car Garage did the build and they used Rebello to build the 3.4L bottom end.

A sequential box + VQ35 would make this car go from awesome to amazing! I love me a good sequential gearbox.

You sure it was an LD28 block John? Josh said L28 but I didn't actually check it myself...

Pretty sure those are Watanabes...

Precisely! Our shop recently developed a turbo kit for the Subaru BRZ/Scion FRS. Tuning was all done on the stock ECU. The kit went through extensive emissions testing and is CARB-legal. Playing with new cars isn't impossible, and with the internet nearly everything is at your fingertips should you choose to search for it! For those things that you just can't figure out, you'll just have to go the old-fashioned way and make friends with someone at the dealer.

You can still certainly play with new cars but it takes a slightly different skill-set. If you are scared of computers, then it's surely not for you! Have you ever swapped diff ratios on a Nissan/Infiniti, e.g. 370Z/G37? It will definitely throw codes and possibly disable cruise control. Only way to fix that would be if you had access to the TCU and could change the necessary parameters...

You need an R180 mustache bar off of a late 240Z or 260Z.

Any good diff shops in your area? I've used and referred people to SF Differential, if you can't find a local place. They've done everything from street to race stuff. John, the owner, is an old-school dude and has been around for a long time.