Leon

Nice! Thanks for the lead!

Look at the front-most counterweight. If it says P3040, it's an L28.

Can be original or Nismo 10th Anniversary version, as long as it's in good shape. I'd really prefer a genuine one but if my search is fruitless, I know that replicas are widely available. Anyone out there looking to get rid of their genuine Compe wheel? Thanks!

Great job with the wiring! Sorry I can't be of help for base maps...

Takashi, I've always removed the fan clutch with the fan. It's a little tight but doable with some patience and careful maneuvering.

Wow, nice job! Perhaps it was the valve springs all along? That jumps out at me the most.

Mislabeled spring part numbers? I'd call Eibach and figure out exactly which spring goes where (not using part numbers).

Thanks for sharing, great find!

Sorry to say, those guys don't understand how to tune sidedrafts. Good observations. The lean spot could be due to the e-tube and not the pumps. Different dynos will have different AFR profiles, especially at the start of the run, depending on the type of dyno and its settings. A load-bearing dyno such as a Dynapack has the ability to hold the car at WOT for a set amount of time before beginning the pull. This gets rid of transients (accel pump shot) and makes the runs much more consistent back-to-back. Ideally, once the main circuit is tuned in this manner, the pumps can then be tuned by performing transient tests. Weber designed all their emulsion tubes for downdrafts. None of them are optimized for the DCOE.

I think that you'll eventually realize that no one can really answer that question unless they have an engine simulation software at their fingertips and the willingness to help. Even then, it's still just a guess/approximation albeit a better one than people just flat out guessing. This question can be put to rest in one of two ways: 1. You are satisifed with some sort of theoretical explanation for why it's better one way and not the other. Maybe even a simple "yes" or "no" from anyone that seems qualified will do the trick. 2. You actually build the two different intakes and test them back-to-back to see which works better.

Good luck and that looks like a hell of a setup!

Hi Steve. Nope, never installed these specific ones. However, I have a brand new set that I will be installing as soon as the Z is back on the road... If you find 240Z Bilsteins, make sure you get the correct gland nut (ring nut in Bilstein-speak), it's Bilstein-specific. Otherwise, it's just like installing any other insert.

Dude, beautiful work. I love it!

Little-by-little, we're getting closer. I did a rocker arm wipe pattern check today and will be looking for sources where I can get some new, slightly smaller pads. This was expected as I got new rocker arms which probably have more material on them than my previous ones. I wish I still worked at a place with a surface grinder and magnetic table, where I could just toss them on the table and have at it...

Is it STILL not understood that the engine was tested first on some sort of engine dyno and then tested again on some sort of chassis dyno? How do you know that the actual loss is 70ft-lb? Neither of the two dynos are calibrated to any sort of standard as far as I'm aware. We're also throwing in different setups between the car being on Rebello's dyno and now? This entire thread is a complete non sequitur as far as making any sort of worthwhile comparison between dyno results.

5-40%, give or take a few. We've had an FC RX7 dyno at our shop to be classified in a NASA class. He originally put down 175whp on a roller. Then he went to another dyno shop (Dynapack) to get tuned and put down ~155whp. Finally, he went to our shop (Dynapack) for NASA classification and put down 127whp. That's a 25% difference in power between chassis dynos! Good luck getting a "crank" number from a chassis dyno, it's futile. As to limiting parasitic losses, that's the name of the game in racing. We've had race teams on our dyno, testing power gains based on what oil they use...

Good to hear from you, Ben! Email sent.

Thanks Brady! I didn't want to do the ports as not to mess up the taper in the intake. I did check to make sure that the runners match the ports via using the gasket as a template. All seems good!

LOL! That ties in nicely with this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/120420-king-z/?do=findComment&comment=1129308

Have you budgeted in that you will be paying at least $100/hr for a quality job? This sounds like hours of work and thousands of dollars waiting to happen. Hope you're prepared!

Nice pieces!

Finally some more progress! I helped a buddy do the first startup and break-in of his L30 last weekend and it seems to have reinvigorated the thirst of hearing my L28 purr again. I port-matched the TWM manifold on the carb side Friday after work and ground the areas where the intake flange interfered with the MSA 6-1 header flange yesterday. I touched up the affected areas with some new paint. Today, I got the carbies all mounted up along with the heat shield. The last bit left is to finalize how I want to do the linkage and then finally reinstall!

Wow, great work Tom! Looks like that blown shock didn't hinder you too much.

Changing the diff ratio has nothing to do with RPM drop, that's the job of the transmission ratios. The diff ratio changes the road speed at which you shift.