Leon

Thanks Douglas, we'll be in Rotorua for the tail-end of the trip and will definitely look you up if we get into Hawkes Bay! Our plans are pretty loose, the only thing I've actually booked is places to stay, a car, and a massage. Everything else will be decided once we get there!

Departure is tomorrow evening! Zeders beware, I will be on the lookout.

In the posted graph, power is shown in PS, i.e. metric horsepower. But yes, that "magical" 5250RPM is only so for power units in hp and torque units in lb-ft. Generally speaking: power = torque X RPM. The rest is just conversion factors.

FWIW, most Cannon manifolds already have a built-in balance tube. Do you have a photo of yours?

I spy a Renault 5 Turbo! Good job, brake bleeding is a PITA...

Yeah, there was a site crash a while back unfortunately...

I'd say high 13s is a bit rich at cruising. I shoot for low-to-mid 14s. Sounds like you may have an off-idle stumble which is different from a tip-in stumble. Here is the test to determine this: Start with a warm car, let it idle. Slowly raise idle speed with an idle speed screw or very slowly by hand and see if it stumbles as you do so. If your idle jet selection is dead-on and it still stumbles, your progressive holes are not positioned right and you need to drill another one. The other case is that your idle jets are too lean on the low end (too big of an idle air bleed)...

Argh, I'm at the track right now (WORKS Motorsports) but don't have any Tokicos...

How does increasing front track width increase understeer? EDIT: To clarify the question, my point is that widening front track by itself will decrease understeer. The question should be: why move roll stiffness forward when you've widened the front track? I'm curious to understand the reasoning.

Loving it! She's definitely getting the love she deserves.

I have a pair. Driver's seat is usable but should be reupholstered if you want it to look good. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/119660-fs-dynamax-super-turbo-muffler-oem-seats-fuel-pumps-strut-mounts-free-parts-etc/

Taking a quick look at that chart, 60F6 idles might do the trick. If the 60 series is just generally too rich, you can also try 55F7 as it has twice the air bleed area as the F11. Maybe give those a try if you can find them.

Frankly, I don't have enough experience with Weber idle jets to make a good recommendation. Now, I can stare at the various jets and probably be able to push you in the right direction but I just don't have that kind of time right now unfortunately. I've been using Keith's hypojets. They're much simpler and more effective than the Weber stuff. Let's try this, take a look at your 55F11. It should have a fuel orifice and air bleed holes. Generally, the more air bleed area you have, the leaner your idle gets and the richer your cruise mixture gets. The right fuel orifice gets you in the ballpark. I would start with seeing if you can find either a 55 jet that has less/smaller air holes than than F11 or a 60 series jet that has more/larger holes than the F8. This chart may come in handy: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachments/carburetors-s30/55753d1345764945-weber-dcoe-tuning-swap-shop-sticky-dcoe-idle-jets.jpg

If you want to set it and forget it, set your bias at the highest grip condition. No need to check it in the wet unless you're dialing in different biases in the wet and dry. The reason for setting your bias at the highest grip condition is because with grip comes weight transfer. The more weight that is transferred to the front, the more front brake bias you need. Once you've set it, your fronts will 100% for sure lock up first in the rain because your bias is dialed in for maximum front weight transfer. Proportioning doesn't affect light braking (the front and rear circuits receive the same amount of pressure up to a certain pressure) so a quiet trip to the alignment shop will do no harm, unless you need to make a panic stop of course...

Did you try your old jetting with the repaired ignition system? That would be telling whether the F7s helped or not. In any case, does that hiccup occur if you went WOT at 2k and as you pass 3k, or does it only occur if you go from cruising to WOT while at 3k RPM? This is an important distinction.

Wow, that Harada manifold is a really quality piece. Looks like an evolution of the Nissan Comp manifold. Looks like it's worth every penny to me. What is it about the Mikuni manifold that makes it worth it?

You guys need to understand, we're working with a system where one change affects many other things. There are plenty of guys out there running DCOEs that are "satisfied" with the way their car runs. The beauty is in the tuning, not simply swapping parts. If setting up carbs was that easy, there would be not debate! The F7 is a much better suited tube for DCOEs because it allows you to run leaner idle jets and accel pumps. If you have a tip-in stumble (different than off-idle stumble), a proper e-tube combined with correct jetting will solve that as well. If nothing else, throttle response will be crisper and you'll get better gas mileage. There is no magic bullet here, you have to work with the system, not individual parts.

Will do. I have a busy weekend ahead of me but I will take a look at exactly what I have and then give you a price.

Hey Dom, I have an L24 block with a new set of pistons waiting for a new home. I got it with one of my Zs and the previous owner said it was supposed to be used as a race motor. It looks like it got cleaned up, machined, painted, and never assembled. I have brand new pistons and rings for it as well. Crank is out of the block but included. Just needs to have clearances checked and assembled! I'm sure I'll never get to it, it's hard to let go of that hoarder mentality... Not sure about pricing yet but send PM if interested!

Looking snazzy!

Wow... Excellent work!

Mike, I'd be curious about what those are if you're willing to share. I started tracking last November and have done 10 track days since. Back in August at Laguna, I "instructed" for the first time, hopping in our shop BRZ with another shop guy, who was a first-timer. It was definitely unsettling to say the least (early turn-in into the Corkscrew is not fun). Now, I am by no means qualified enough to really instruct but I wanted to help the guy out since he'd been involved in motorsports for a long time but never actually had a chance to drive on track. Ever since then, I've been doing some reading and thinking. Ross Bentley's "HPDE Instructor Manifesto" is great, I think it was recommended on this site, possibly. I figure that even if I don't instruct in the next year, or three, or ever, I will at least have a better perspective from all of this. Anyway, if you decide to post your thoughts, plans, and experiences, I'd be very interested and grateful!

Try Vintage Connections, under the "Prices" tab.

Hang in there and congratulations!

Nice! I like the surprise at the end too.