Leon

Futofab has them on sale as well, I think they may be $299 over there...

You've got better forethought than I! I'm not sure if we're going much further north, relaxing in Tutukaka right now. We thought about taking a trip to the Bay of Islands tomorrow but we're feeling pretty wiped out, especially since it's almost a 4 hour round-trip the day before we take a 5-hour drive to Rotorua. We're planning some activities in the Rotorua area so we may need to conserve energy. I would've loved to kayak with some dolphins or something cool like that though...

Nice, that's a heck of a trip Douglas! In the US, it's deadly simple to get a driver's license let alone take charge of a huge missile barreling down the interstate. On a related note, I've found the drivers of New Zealand to be a lot more respectful and calm, compared to California at least. It's a very pleasant place, everyone is very polite. I'm getting more used to the driving part, I'm afraid I may do a few goofy things when I get back to the States. We just got back from a diving trip at Poor Knights, what a cool place! Tired now, time sit on the couch and stuff my face with delicious chocolate...

If you can keep the car alive with starter fluid, you have a fuel problem. If not, it's spark or mechanical.

Good for you Keith, you'll reap the rewards eventually if you keep it up! The Z may be off-limits for the time being though unless your winter projects include cutting out the door bars, adding power steering, and installing a Stage 1 sissy clutch kit.

LOL! My wife has been doing it since March. I did it once and said, this is not for me!

I wouldn't run it WOT above 3500RPM until this is fixed. Seems like a float valve or fuel pump issue. If you can't keep the floats full, you'll eventually run lean which seems to be what's happening here.

See my last sentence. Also, that Mallory probably isn't doing you any favors. I'd toss it and go for either a Nissan unit or the 123ignition one. I plan to get a 123 myself but haven't reached that point yet, the Z has been down for over a year...

The wife definitely had some espresso upon arrival! I had to look up Remuera tractor. Sadly, we won't be making it that far south. Next time!

Got in this morning at 5:20 actually! Had brekkie on Ponsonby (near where our first stay is) and got to our place by 9:45. And then I slept for 3-4 hours. Got to explore Ponsonby and walked downtown to do play tourist on the Sky Tower. Had fun and some great food. Saw an R32 GTR! The massage will be later, happy ending would be great but it may turn into sad ending when the wife finds out... In the end, I went conservative with the rental. The fancy stuff was too expensive so I took the ol' cheapest-I-can-get route! Ended up with a surprisingly peppy Hyundai Getz with a 5-speed and 16V twin-cam motor. It's a fun little car but at this point I'm more worried about reprogramming my brain for the mirrored roads and controls! I hit the wipers multiple times instead of the indicators before I got used to that one. So far, only one slam of the hand into the door panel reaching for the imaginary shifter to my right. Even as a pedestrian, I looked like a moron as I walked into the path of another car because I hadn't reconfigured my head to look a different direction. Lots of fun still ahead!

Thanks Douglas, we'll be in Rotorua for the tail-end of the trip and will definitely look you up if we get into Hawkes Bay! Our plans are pretty loose, the only thing I've actually booked is places to stay, a car, and a massage. Everything else will be decided once we get there!

Departure is tomorrow evening! Zeders beware, I will be on the lookout.

In the posted graph, power is shown in PS, i.e. metric horsepower. But yes, that "magical" 5250RPM is only so for power units in hp and torque units in lb-ft. Generally speaking: power = torque X RPM. The rest is just conversion factors.

FWIW, most Cannon manifolds already have a built-in balance tube. Do you have a photo of yours?

I spy a Renault 5 Turbo! Good job, brake bleeding is a PITA...

Yeah, there was a site crash a while back unfortunately...

I'd say high 13s is a bit rich at cruising. I shoot for low-to-mid 14s. Sounds like you may have an off-idle stumble which is different from a tip-in stumble. Here is the test to determine this: Start with a warm car, let it idle. Slowly raise idle speed with an idle speed screw or very slowly by hand and see if it stumbles as you do so. If your idle jet selection is dead-on and it still stumbles, your progressive holes are not positioned right and you need to drill another one. The other case is that your idle jets are too lean on the low end (too big of an idle air bleed)...

Argh, I'm at the track right now (WORKS Motorsports) but don't have any Tokicos...

How does increasing front track width increase understeer? EDIT: To clarify the question, my point is that widening front track by itself will decrease understeer. The question should be: why move roll stiffness forward when you've widened the front track? I'm curious to understand the reasoning.

Loving it! She's definitely getting the love she deserves.

I have a pair. Driver's seat is usable but should be reupholstered if you want it to look good. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/119660-fs-dynamax-super-turbo-muffler-oem-seats-fuel-pumps-strut-mounts-free-parts-etc/

Taking a quick look at that chart, 60F6 idles might do the trick. If the 60 series is just generally too rich, you can also try 55F7 as it has twice the air bleed area as the F11. Maybe give those a try if you can find them.

Frankly, I don't have enough experience with Weber idle jets to make a good recommendation. Now, I can stare at the various jets and probably be able to push you in the right direction but I just don't have that kind of time right now unfortunately. I've been using Keith's hypojets. They're much simpler and more effective than the Weber stuff. Let's try this, take a look at your 55F11. It should have a fuel orifice and air bleed holes. Generally, the more air bleed area you have, the leaner your idle gets and the richer your cruise mixture gets. The right fuel orifice gets you in the ballpark. I would start with seeing if you can find either a 55 jet that has less/smaller air holes than than F11 or a 60 series jet that has more/larger holes than the F8. This chart may come in handy: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachments/carburetors-s30/55753d1345764945-weber-dcoe-tuning-swap-shop-sticky-dcoe-idle-jets.jpg

If you want to set it and forget it, set your bias at the highest grip condition. No need to check it in the wet unless you're dialing in different biases in the wet and dry. The reason for setting your bias at the highest grip condition is because with grip comes weight transfer. The more weight that is transferred to the front, the more front brake bias you need. Once you've set it, your fronts will 100% for sure lock up first in the rain because your bias is dialed in for maximum front weight transfer. Proportioning doesn't affect light braking (the front and rear circuits receive the same amount of pressure up to a certain pressure) so a quiet trip to the alignment shop will do no harm, unless you need to make a panic stop of course...