Leon

Changing the diff ratio has nothing to do with RPM drop, that's the job of the transmission ratios. The diff ratio changes the road speed at which you shift.

Nooooo! I agree, even if it's not deep, I'd be pissed beyond belief. Otherwise, your wiring project is shaping up to be very impressive. Keep up the great work!

Just saw this, probably too late since you're in Texas. I'll send you a PM anyway...

Wanna trade me? I'll make up the cost-difference. If the Jag calipers fit my 16" Panasports that is...

It's a typical S30 feature.

I have the same diff. It most likely came out of an HR31 GTS-R Nissan Skyline. Only 800 built for race homologation purposes... Edit: To clarify, the above are R200 units, not R180.

That could easily have been the valves out of adjustment and/or stretched timing chain. Did you check valve lash and cam timing? I don't want to jump to any conclusions but if the necessary diagnostic steps haven't been taken, it's difficult to recommend the next course of action. If you really want to know whether you should rebuild the bottom end, you now need to mic the bore for nominal size and taper. I can't tell you anything about the bearings unless you've been monitoring oil pressure. If it's an original Nissan bottom end and it hasn't been run low on oil or overly abused, there's a pretty good chance that the bearings are fine.

Yes. Cheers! You made some great contributions in your first few posts, welcome to HybridZ.

The linear speed of the rotor has nothing to do with braking torque. A longer lever arm (larger diameter rotor) will stop a car faster, given it has enough traction to sustain that deceleration. Yes, the linear speed will be higher and you would think that it would generate more heat but to generate the same brake torque from a smaller diameter rotor you must squeeze it harder, also generating more heat. Heat generated (friction) has more to do with the amount of kinetic energy the brakes are being asked to absorb. In other words, if we're talking speed, the important one is the speed of the car itself. Weight is the other part of the kinetic energy equation but this takes us into a whole different topic...

Nicely done Arne. The Brake Handbook is a great read for those interested, and cheap to boot!

As mentioned, there is no reverse gear syncro.

Tony's comments are spot on. And I would be amazed if it took anything near 4 hours with everything looking tidy and working properly.

Damn, good deal. I just looked back at my records and I paid $115 each (core included) for the Lincoln calipers. Major bummer about the brake master...

Hey Alec, everything is still sitting in storage here waiting for me to finally get the car running again before I take it up to the shop to do the work. The Jag calipers were cheaper? I ordered all the stuff a while ago but I think I got the steel ones because they must've been cheaper at the time. Hmm...

Your valve stem seals are leaking. Who did the "Stage 3" head? Please don't say Datsun Parts LLC... Did you perform a compression and leak-down check before tear-down? If those results were good, I'd change the stem seals in the head and put it back together. In fact, stem seals can be changed in-car with the right tools...

Futofab has them on sale as well, I think they may be $299 over there...

You've got better forethought than I! I'm not sure if we're going much further north, relaxing in Tutukaka right now. We thought about taking a trip to the Bay of Islands tomorrow but we're feeling pretty wiped out, especially since it's almost a 4 hour round-trip the day before we take a 5-hour drive to Rotorua. We're planning some activities in the Rotorua area so we may need to conserve energy. I would've loved to kayak with some dolphins or something cool like that though...

Nice, that's a heck of a trip Douglas! In the US, it's deadly simple to get a driver's license let alone take charge of a huge missile barreling down the interstate. On a related note, I've found the drivers of New Zealand to be a lot more respectful and calm, compared to California at least. It's a very pleasant place, everyone is very polite. I'm getting more used to the driving part, I'm afraid I may do a few goofy things when I get back to the States. We just got back from a diving trip at Poor Knights, what a cool place! Tired now, time sit on the couch and stuff my face with delicious chocolate...

If you can keep the car alive with starter fluid, you have a fuel problem. If not, it's spark or mechanical.

Good for you Keith, you'll reap the rewards eventually if you keep it up! The Z may be off-limits for the time being though unless your winter projects include cutting out the door bars, adding power steering, and installing a Stage 1 sissy clutch kit.

LOL! My wife has been doing it since March. I did it once and said, this is not for me!

I wouldn't run it WOT above 3500RPM until this is fixed. Seems like a float valve or fuel pump issue. If you can't keep the floats full, you'll eventually run lean which seems to be what's happening here.

See my last sentence. Also, that Mallory probably isn't doing you any favors. I'd toss it and go for either a Nissan unit or the 123ignition one. I plan to get a 123 myself but haven't reached that point yet, the Z has been down for over a year...

The wife definitely had some espresso upon arrival! I had to look up Remuera tractor. Sadly, we won't be making it that far south. Next time!