Leon

Good to hear!

Finally took the time to pull the wiped cam out. Had to remove the hood, unbolt the engine mounts, remove the clutch fan, and jack the motor up high enough for the cam to clear the radiator if anyone cares for how it's done. On a related note, I got a $15 chain tensioner retention tool off of Amazon. Saves grief and anxiety about that thing popping out. Also, I believe I've confirmed my thoughts about why the cam was wiped. I'm sending it to Isky for them to check it out and give their thoughts but it seems pretty clear. During the rebuild, I sent 12 rocker arms out to Delta Cams for regrinding, as they've been recommended countless times and they're surprisingly cheap. When I got them back, something like 50% of them were not ground parallel when looking at the lash pad contact patch vs. the cam contact patch. Being in a hurry to put the motor together in an attempt to have the car ready for my wedding (and JCCS a few weeks later) I grabbed some used rockers I had lying around and prepped them using a belt sander/sand paper on a flat surface (as shown and recommended to me by a reputable source). I inspected the rocker arms after pulling them today and could tell which ones were the regrinds and which were home/shop-prepped since Delta sandblasts the rockers. The wear-pattern on the non-reground rockers was courser than the regrinds, so to say, indicating that those rockers/lobes were possibly wearing quicker. Also, it looked like another home-prepped rocker was starting to prematurely wear. All the rockers had a distinct delineation on their wear pad between open/closing ramps, something I don't remember seeing on stock rockers. However, do note that sanding the rockers leaves a different finish than grinding. It could be that the finish has just not been "polished" by the cam yet on those non-reground rockers. Based on the evidence, I think the lobe failure was caused by a hastily-done, improperly prepped rocker arm. It's a bit strange that it took out just the closing ramp of the cam lobe and matching rocker, so presumably the contact surface of the closing ramp section of that rocker was not prepped enough in that there was still an old wear-ridge present. I assume that the reason for the rocker being worn all the way to the edge is caused by a buildup of removed material from the cam/rocker essentially extending the rocker-cam contact area during rotation. Lesson learned: buy new rocker arms when swapping cams. If you're getting regrinds, either make sure that the shop can grind them spot on, or send in two-dozen and pick the 12 best from the lot. If you're doing your own prep, do a good job! Nifty tool Offending rocker arm Offending cam lobe, opening ramp Offending cam lobe, closing ramp Differences between reground and sanded rocker I will be sending the bad cam for analysis and a good core to Isky, and will hopefully be back on the road sooner than later!

Look's like a '73 or '74 balance tube (EGR).

Greg, I'd love to have you come by the shop or my place (or both )! I'm at Sears Point Raceway by day and in San Bruno, near SFO, by night. Send me a PM, I'll give you contact info.

I think Matt did a lot of rework to the AZC stuff. He's on this forum and has an active thread for that car.

AJUSA was fantastic to deal with, very helpful. I will say that when placing my order back in July, I was told I got the last 4 gland nuts they had in stock. Hopefully Bilstein is still manufacturing them. As you can see, B4-B30-U232B1 is clearly a correct part number as far as ordering them goes. That's the number I gave AJUSA. For added confusion, the tops of my gland nuts say B30-629 B1... I don't remember what I paid for them exactly but it was in the neighborhood of the quote you got, so they add about $100 to the cost of the struts. It was well worth it to me.

Thanks, appreciate the info!

Sports are valved stiffer than HDs, I believe. After doing a ton of research, thinking, and planning, I bought a set of P30-0032 (34-184530) from AJUSA earlier this summer. Looks like they're still on sale: http://www.ajusa.com/Bilstein-34-184530-Monotube-Strut-Insert-ab061a.html Here's a link to my thread with a photo of the parts, including the correct gland nut (which Bilstein calls a "Ring Nut") part number for 240Z/early 260Z strut tubes (B4-B30-U232B1, big thanks to John Coffey for that one). This makes the Bilsteins almost a plug-and-play affair, just need to fab a strut spacer.

15X10 Spinwerks, I believe.

Nice! Good to see you getting over the hump. That Z will be back together in no time!

Oh no, that's some bad luck! At least if you wanted white, you have to repaint anyway...

I believe that's what Glenn is running on his 15X8 Wats.

Can't believe you're trying to talk him down. If there truly aren't any serious body issues, that is one hell of a deal.

There's a chance that I'll be there...

Bravo!

No building needed. Throw it off a cliff that's at least 1/4 mile tall.

Scary stuff, glad you're okay.

You're welcome! It's funny how sometimes life is such a right-place-at-the-right-time kind of experience. Serendipitous was definitely the right descriptor. I'm glad you joined, this place is pretty special.

Looking good! Now that I think about it, I remember threading the head bolts all the way into the block and back out to get any extra gunk out of the bolt holes. Got a good bit of crap to come out in the last couple of turns of the bolt. I think it's no big deal, run it, re-torque the HG after a few hundred miles, and you're off. You can check compression if you're feeling really frisky. Save that new HG for when you really need it.

Great detective work! Those pesky little things add up and you did a great job of solving a good bit of them. Regarding the MJ tach tap, there are 3 coil pack ground wires and a power feed to the coil packs. When the module grounds one of those wires, that coil fires. This means that in order to create that tach adapter circuit, you'd tap into those 3 wires going to the coil packs. At least that's the way I remember thinking it worked. I'm not sure whether the MJ tacho output can drive the Z tach, I don't remember the reason why I thought it wouldn't. In any case, Clive (aka "EvilC") has Megajolt on one of his Zs but I don't think he's had a chance to work out the tach yet.

LOL, I'm with you on that top photo! Nicely done.

Got 'em back last week, they still work great but I was told that the piston seal is beginning to weep. Meaning, they'll be due for a rebuild sooner than later. I'm planning to get a quote for rebuilding just to know. Message me when you get back and we can talk.

Mine will be a street car with a track day or autocross thrown in once in a while, so I'm thinking the stock valving should be a nice compromise. We'll wait and see I suppose!

Thanks for the feedback! I just had my VW P30s dynoed and will also be running them without a re-valve. Looks like they should do the trick on paper but there's nothing like actually driving the car to find out. I'm glad to hear how well it went!

Sounds like a vacuum leak, likely from the throttle shaft seal on that barrel. There are a few methods to use to try and seal it up. First thing I'd do is just put your fingers around the shaft seal and try to hear or feel a difference in how the engine runs. Maybe apply some grease to the seal to temporarily seal it.