Leon

Exactly. As soon as I saw only 15" on their brochure, I discounted them. Sixteens would've piqued my interest.

Ha, thanks Nate, that's what I was going for! I wanted a fuel rail solution for my triples that looked factory-ish and I saw nothing out there that I liked. I contemplated the Magna Fuel log as others have used, as well as using the generic EFI fuel rails, but none tickled my fancy. I gave it some thought and came up with a design that I liked and fit the car! As for cost, let's just say "high", LOL! If I were to do it again, I'd change a few things, maybe use aluminum instead of stainless. I'm tracking the cost in my spreadsheet, and everything included has run me ~$600. Not using stainless fittings and tubing would've probably saved ~$100. I bought the fittings and bulk stainless tubing, which I cut to length. I'll say that this took A LOT of planning as I wanted something that fits the feel of the car and something that was unique.

I run stock retainers with .200" and .220" lash pads without issue.

Saw 'em at JCCS too. Interesting, but 15" rim sizes drive me off because of poor tire selection...

Started on my fuel rail, more progress to follow.

Installed a new clutch and put the tranny back in yesterday. Now to reinstall intake and exhaust manifolds... In the meantime, the Nissan Comp unit joins it's friends on the header wall.

I have a set, although missing the right signal harness. There is a small crack in the right signal as well, as seen in photos. Besides that, they're in good shape and all 4 mounting studs are intact. $30+shipping if you're interested.

WOW, great job Takashi! Way to plow through all that work.

Exact match? I'm sure it'll be close enough. It's that kind of OCD that makes a project last for many, many years...

My god, that's nuts!

Seriously? That sucks. Good thing I have two unopened containers of the blue stuff sitting on my shelf, muahahaha!

Yup, just be careful. We were super careful when dropping the engine+trans into the green car, and we definitely had some CLOSE calls, but got it in there just fine. As for brake fluid, it's just like any other car. Put some towels or rags down, or better yet, just use a funnel.

That's a good point, although I'd imagine it would be difficult to "foul" these strainers, especially considering your previous statement: "Those Pierce strainers are not "filters", they're rock strainers." Now that I think about it, I can test the strainers/filters on my other Z given that it fits those horns. The horns are 1.5" shorter so that I can get a filter housing over them. I was already planning to dyno test after getting the car back on the road (should be soon) in order to quantify filter losses and effects from the air horns, so I can add testing those strainers at the same time.

Agreed!

I enjoy tuning triples and it's pretty straightforward now that I've amassed some knowledge over the years. If the AFR noticeably changes when removing the filters, the only tuning change needed would be main jets, at least to determine power loss at WOT.

You didn't get it. ANY filter restricts the intake. The point of testing is to find out how much of a restriction it presents. Tuning these carbs is very simple, if you know what you're doing. Changing 6 main jets, if need be, is not difficult.

That's really not enough for me to go on. I have those strainers on one of my Zs, and once it's sorted I plan to hit the dyno and see just how restrictive they are (all filters will have some restriction). I don't know if I can do a filter comparison since my horns stick out too far to get a K&N pod on there. The strainers are my best option as far as space, I'd have to buy shorter horns to run a filter. Again, I'll have actual numbers when I go to the dyno.

I purposely switched to a ZX fan and did a comparison: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/101984-cooling-fan-for-edis-install/

You wouldn't run them because "they look very restrictive"? Not a great reason, is it?

Fantastic!

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/99217.225.htm

That's exactly why I went to Keith's jetting, considering he was local. Not only did the car run better, but it's cheaper for me in the long run as I don't need a library of jets (although I managed to make a small collection at this point anyway ). I saved on idle-jets and e-tubes at least... Playing with these things is definitely not for the feint of heart.

Keith has recommended a toothpick before. I read on the side draft forum about guys using tips of zip-ties, Loctite, etc... Well you're in Europe (and right next to Spain, assuming that's where the jets are being manufactured since the carbs are made there), so I'd imagine buying Weber jetting isn't difficult where you're at.

In your case, I'd try to at least plug some of those upper air holes in your e-tube. The F11 really sucks for DCOE applications, it was made for down-drafts where the fuel level is higher relative to the tube (as Keith has shown) so that the air holes are submerged. The Sidedraft site has some great suggestions for modifying Weber e-tubes, seemingly with the F7 (I believe?) being the best candidate. If you have access to Weber guys, I bet they'll have a nice collection of stock e-tubes that you can play around with. I know what you mean about the problem solving, keep it up!

I've got Obert e-tubes and Hypojets in my orange car, and the fueling control as well as driveability has tremendously increased. Get yourself some 05 e-tubes and H28 Hypojets to start, I think Keith accepts returns in the unlikely case that you're disappointed. The nice thing is that if you want to change jetting, you can swap with Keith instead of buying more and more jets.