Leon

There is no challenge. This is just another opportunity for him to show-off his awesome Z and make it look like he actually does some work on it...

First thing I'd do is check whether there are any air bleed holes above the fuel level. If so, plug them. Use a toothpick, Loctite, etc. Then, you may need to up-size some lower bleed holes to get more air in, which will help accelerate the fuel faster during tip-in conditions. I'd also try to contact Keith Franck, he knows a lot more than I do when it comes to this. I'm just relaying Keith's findings.

Hell yeah it is! Although I would argue that the less radical the cam, the easier to tune. Long duration cams cause a lot of reversion in the low and mid range (if radical enough) which requires more fuel in order to have enough fresh mixture within the cylinder. My stock-cammed L24 took well to leaning out my idles and progression circuit. I know that Keith has done some work with the Mikuni PHH, but unsure of how far that was taken. Strange that you had issues joining.

Sweeeet!

Holy crap! What the F was the PO thinking... Those are just carb isolators, you can find them in many places including Pierce Manifolds (yes, they deal in Webers). http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/99005.145.htm http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/z70-216.htm

Franckly (LOL), F11 e-tubes are just about the worst in DCOE applications. They have bleed holes ABOVE the fuel level, which only serves to delay tip-in (read: flat spot). This is why you're running such a fat idle. Keith documented this on sidedraft central, the F7 e-tube is the one to go for if you're staying with Weber e-tubes. The one caveat is that it won't deliver great mileage because it's impedance is too low (small OD). Most (if not all) of the Weber e-tubes were designed for downdraft applications and work really poorly in the sidedrafts. This is because the height of the auxiliary venturi passageway is lower on sidedrafts. Transition has everything to do with the e-tube, this is what most don't realize. The e-tube/air jet combo controls WHEN the main circuit is able to kick in, and how strong that kick is. Most people just use a fat ass idle jet and/or accel pump shot to cover that issue up. This obviously causes problems elsewhere. Again, I recommend people register with the Sidedraft Central Yahoo Group, if not just for the sake of taking a look in the Files section. In there you'll find Keith's White Paper on tuning these carbs. While some of the info can use some updating, the majority of it is very much true. It's a thoroughly scientific way of setting up the carbs, skipping the typical guess-and-check and he-said, she-said methods.

That S30 is fhptom's, who is a forum member.

This is true...

Welcome to the area Josh! Just in case you don't already know, 1976-and-newer cars need biennial smog testing, in case that affects your search.

One of those 360 vans was at JCCS this year!

Thank you, Takashi! Yeah, by the time I saw that they make everything in brass, I had already committed to stainless. That's exactly what I'd go for if the goal was to do it cheaper but keeping the vintage look. You know, during my initial design stage, after looking over the design of the stock rail I really wanted to braze on the fittings. I ultimately went with compression fittings because they're easier to work with, and soldering stainless seemed like a pain. Brazing fittings is definitely something I'd like to try to make a smoother-looking rail though! My next one may just be brass/copper...

Long-time PO of the car (had it since '89) replied this morning with, "It came with the car. I looked around and at least at one time Motorsport Auto in OC carried one that looked just like it (from catalog photos). Otherwise its probably almost as old as the car!" Sorry man!

Sent email to PO, we'll see if he remembers where it came from.

Exactly. As soon as I saw only 15" on their brochure, I discounted them. Sixteens would've piqued my interest.

Ha, thanks Nate, that's what I was going for! I wanted a fuel rail solution for my triples that looked factory-ish and I saw nothing out there that I liked. I contemplated the Magna Fuel log as others have used, as well as using the generic EFI fuel rails, but none tickled my fancy. I gave it some thought and came up with a design that I liked and fit the car! As for cost, let's just say "high", LOL! If I were to do it again, I'd change a few things, maybe use aluminum instead of stainless. I'm tracking the cost in my spreadsheet, and everything included has run me ~$600. Not using stainless fittings and tubing would've probably saved ~$100. I bought the fittings and bulk stainless tubing, which I cut to length. I'll say that this took A LOT of planning as I wanted something that fits the feel of the car and something that was unique.

I run stock retainers with .200" and .220" lash pads without issue.

Saw 'em at JCCS too. Interesting, but 15" rim sizes drive me off because of poor tire selection...

Started on my fuel rail, more progress to follow.

Installed a new clutch and put the tranny back in yesterday. Now to reinstall intake and exhaust manifolds... In the meantime, the Nissan Comp unit joins it's friends on the header wall.

I have a set, although missing the right signal harness. There is a small crack in the right signal as well, as seen in photos. Besides that, they're in good shape and all 4 mounting studs are intact. $30+shipping if you're interested.

WOW, great job Takashi! Way to plow through all that work.

Exact match? I'm sure it'll be close enough. It's that kind of OCD that makes a project last for many, many years...

My god, that's nuts!

Seriously? That sucks. Good thing I have two unopened containers of the blue stuff sitting on my shelf, muahahaha!

Yup, just be careful. We were super careful when dropping the engine+trans into the green car, and we definitely had some CLOSE calls, but got it in there just fine. As for brake fluid, it's just like any other car. Put some towels or rags down, or better yet, just use a funnel.