Leon

Have you done a valve adjustment? I have trouble believing that one ring has gone bad while the others are fine. A rebuild is unwarranted until it's actually determined that it's necessary. If the valves are ok, I'd do a leakdown test before proceeding. I don't understand how all these "mechanics" diagnose these things without at least checking leakdown, unless you're leaving out information...

Ok, let's just discard physics all together then... Thanks for saving me the explanation, Nigel. Well said.

Sounds like a nice setup! I've used the dyno a few times and there are plenty of people here that have as well. It's a very valuable tuning tool, if used correctly.

Comp header with twin pipes all the way back.

Damn Clive, looking good!

Yeah, the machinist said he took off .004" from the block deck. I calculated that I need the head gasket to compress to about 1.1mm. I have an OEM Nissan HG on hand which I hope should make everything a-ok. With that said, I'll be doing a similar check as Lazeum did by putting a dial indicator on the block and seeing the height difference of the head with and without a HG. This will allow me to calculate true compressed gasket thickness. As a double-check, I've got silly putty on hand to check head-piston as well as valve-piston clearances. Thanks Jim, I've been reading through a ton of Braaps old posts! Speaking of which, I should've listened when he said to buy extra valve stem seals, because sure enough I cobbled some up...

I enjoyed the short-story...

Wow, helluva project! Nice work so far, you don't see a lot of race-prepped ZXs around here.

Let's go with "the bee's knees" then.

I've started this morning with measuring deck height. I'm at .021" (piston above deck). Looks like this is the same number you had, Matt. I'll be reading through your thread again. EDIT: removed units from deck height measurement to avoid confusion.

Well at least it stands up to WOT in 5th, that's the important bit. Maybe the bounciness is due to throttle modulation (touchy throttle)? My combo on this engine will be a 10lb Fidanza with the stock clutch. I'll do as you have and test the limits of the stocker before dropping dough on a fancy setup. Besides, I don't imagine my engine being as high performing as yours (no port work and ZX distributor for now).

Download the FSM from xenonS130.com. Take a look at the BE section.

Oh man, that would be hilarious! Quick, somebody put this man in a skimpy swimsuit and do the first middle-aged-man bikini ride-along. It'll be a hit!

Long-time, no-update. Just to keep this up-to-date, the car is currently on jack-stands because I've sold all but one set of wheels. This leaves me with 4 wheels for 2 cars... However, the main reason for the car going up on stands is that the throwout bearing started making terrible noises back in April. I drove it a bit, but of course it was getting worse. The current plan is to drop the transmission, install lightweight flywheel, new clutch, and put in a late 5-speed. I'm also planning to drop the diff at the same time and finally install the CLSD. Carbs will also be replaced at the same time with 40DCOE151, replacing the 18s in it now. I can see this turning into a major while-I'm-at-it project... In the future, I'll build an engine for this one although I'm unsure of exactly what it'll be. In the meantime, the green car gets the attention so the action here will be slow until after September.

Awesome, that's reassuring. Thanks Matt!

Nice! I wasn't sure how many guys were running an OEM 225mm with a hotter L28. Is it holding up so far, i.e. no slipping? No need for an expensive "brand-name" clutch if my car doesn't call for it, is my thought.

Perfect! I just got that exact B/A oil sender from Rockauto yesterday.

Awesome project, I love it! That's a sweet engine and you're doing a nice, thorough job with the conversion.

And the source of said lash pads? I may need a set of .260" pads pretty soon.

Classiczcars.com has a lot of useful SU-specific info. These carbs are very simple to work with. It's clear that you need to sit down and read the FSM. It's FREE to download at xenonS30.com...

My first response would definitely NOT be to tear down and rebuild the carbs. As long as nothing is sticking, I bet that you can get it to run well unless the shafts have severe leaks. It's not a simple bolt-on and go affair, the carbs must be adjusted to run on your engine. Go through the procedure outlined in the FSM, Haynes, or countless posts online. How did you come to the conclusion that they need a rebuild? All I'm getting from your post is that you bolted on the carbs, it didn't run right, so now you've decided to "rebuild" them.

After looking at it, the procedure shouldn't be very hard. Of course, whenever I say that some stupid little thing goes wrong... The toughest part of the job looks to be extracting and installing the seal. I will try to get to it if time allows!

Famous last words...

Sure thing! Cool project.