Leon

Sure thing. It mounts on the right fender, underneath the engine bay plate and voltage regulator. All the car's power runs through it, so unless you modify the wiring (jumper across shunt) then you will need it. It's one of those 260Z-only things. I have two 260Zs but only one shunt, as I can't seem to find my other one...

That's a shunt for a 260Z. I'll take it if you don't need it.

I used the dual o-ring style ones I got from Pierce Manifolds, but I don't remember them being significantly smaller than the intake tracts? I'm running a Cannon intake and 40DCOE18 carbies. Where did you get your isolators from? I'm a big fan of the phenolic isolators but I don't remember what site I saw them on... On another note, she's almost back on the road. It would be driving now but the $60 exhaust I bought off Craigslist don't fit so good.

Damn, awesome job! Thank you for doing this and sharing the info! If I may hypothesize: strut tower braces won't do crap no matter how they're shaped UNLESS they're triangulated to the firewall. Thanks again for your efforts!

Ha, love the wife commentary! We better see that at this year's picnic, Ray.

Very nice, looks like they sit nice and low in the car. Looking forward to pics of seat mount modifications.

Sounds healthy.

Hence the keyword: "Personally"...

Use the stock retainers, I've run bigger lash pads in the stockers...

In Russia, those are called cutlets (cotleti)... http://thedomesticman.com/2013/02/12/russian-cutlets-%D0%BA%D0%BE%D1%82%D0%BB%D0%B5%D1%82%D1%8B/

I agree with an above poster that it depends on the look you're going for. Personally, I'd ditch the cheesy two-tone and go for the 944 seats. They look like they'd fit in just right with the rest of your interior. We have some in the shop and they're comfy, at 6'2" 200lb.

Very nice! I used a Quiet Flow for my green Z and it's nice and quiet . All I hear are the carbies sucking in air.

Nicely done, Ed. I, for one, would buy a drop-in and completely tunable distributor in a heartbeat if it were available.

Thanks Takashi! Still using 40s (L24) but finally bought new air horns and filters. Thanks Steve, you got that right, especially with a new job and holiday stuff going on...

Progress has been slow, just waiting for me to weld up exhaust leaks and mount up the pipes...

Yes, my salvaged Z is insured for full coverage and agreed value, no different from a clean titled car.

It sounds like the car is in good shape, although it's hard to go on just words without detailed photos. Many people are afraid of salvaged cars but I don't have an issue as long as the frame wasn't damaged. One of my Zs was salvaged and repaired. I originally paid $2500 for the running car but it needed A LOT of work. I bought it because it was rust-free and a good platform to build on. Its alignment numbers look better than some collision-free Zs. $6500 wouldn't even tempt me to sell my salvaged Z, unless I stripped it of a bunch of parts.

Thanks. Would that be the Aluminum Jag caliper on there?

Any ideas as to whether either caliper fits inside 16" wheels?

FWIW, I made sure all rockers used in my engine build were parallel and the engine was nice and quiet from the get-go. It has a bit over 1000 miles on it now.

6 of 12 of my reground Delta rockers were not ground parallel. What I doubt is that many people actually take the time to check them.

Some serious engineering going on here! Loving it.

I'd remove the glass, carefully. Cleaning and painting the hatch will be way easier and afterwards you can clean up the stainless trim and install a new gasket.

Good work! I'll have to check out that steering wheel sometime, the purchase is on my radar.