Leon

Thanks John, I'm assuming you don't sell the HTS anymore. The 112F and 102F are shorter than stock inserts, yes?

The dampers are what really affect the ride. A broad range of springs can be used as long as they're properly damped. The issue in using high spring rates in the S30 is that the body is really not that rigid to be able to fully take advantage of it, unless the body is somehow stiffened. The 280Z is very likely more torsionally stiff than a 240Z, but by how much I don't know.

That's a good point and I'm planning on doing the typical GC setup pretty soon. I don't want to use Tokicos but there aren't many options outside of that. John, are there any inserts with digressive valving that are currently on the market and can fit a sectioned 240Z strut tube? I know you're planning on selling some Bilsteins sometime in the near future, but it seems as though they require strut modifications? Feel free to PM me if you'd rather do that.

Hell, I take off from a standstill in 2nd gear with my L24-powered Z! First is pretty much only for uphill take-offs. This is partially because my trans/diff combo isn't great (3.9 behind an early 5-speed), but these engines are freakin torquey, turbo or not.

Just awesome. I hope I can see this thing in person some day!

Check out the wiring diagram. I believe you have to activate the wire but I haven't done this myself. Many other have though and you should be able to find out how it's done. You don't need a battery to check the wiring. Get yourself a long cable and alligator clips and you can run continuity checks on anything you want.

Every S30 cam will have some overlap. Cast is fine for a street engine. I'm with ZIP, the cam mentioned looks better but will have a fairly high powerband on an L24. Call up Isky and talk with them, but make sure you have solidified your goals for the build. Otherwise you'll be wasting their and your own time.

This is a repaint of 260Z 110 Red, I didn't do the repaint. I think it looks a bit more orange than the original but it's close. This is post-detail:

This may sound strange, but sometimes I really like the look of a deep red wine-colored Z. I've been eyeing colors for my '71 as well. Cygnusx1's 240Z: Reminds me of the Burgundy on Porsche 944's: Definitely not a common color, but I like it.

Unless you removed it, there should already be wiring in place for the fuel pump next to the gas tank, behind the right rear wheel. As far as the cooling fan, why not run a clutch fan? There is no added electrical circuitry and no additional load on the charging system, plus the clutch fan works great. I've not had an issue with mine and the temp gauge needle rarely gets past the "E" if that matters (rebuilt cooling system, 180deg thermostat).

LS1 and no budget concern? Time for ITBs!

https://www.google.com/#hl=en&output=search&sclient=psy-ab&q=3.9+turbo+site:hybridz.org&oq=3.9+turbo+site:hybridz.org&gs_l=hp.3...527.7184.0.7456.26.22.0.0.0.0.737.3791.3j8j3j0j1j1j1.17.0.les%3B..0.0...1c.1.bxx77lg3_wo&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&fp=3711ae5bed1ccc88&bpcl=35277026&biw=1088&bih=563

Wow, fantastic work! That Z is going to turn out great. It sure would be nice to have a shop like that.

Yeah, no kidding! However, the VH was running and cheap, $200. The ZX trans was $150. Veeery tempting but I passed on it after searching and realizing how much work it really takes to swap a VH45 into an S30 chassis. There aren't enough hours in a day...

Hey Alex, thanks man! I've been neglecting this thread since September was so busy. I will say that I almost bought a VH45 and 300ZX trans the other day, but then I snapped back to reality. Also considered buying the used Stahl header in the classifieds. What's wrong with me... I really need to put my JCCS stuff up, stay tuned!

A V8, cross-flow engine is also not analogous to the L-series.

An air-cooled, long-runner VW engine is not analogous to a water-cooled L-series. If you're worried about stagnation in the thermostat housing, then don't turn the HVAC to full hot.

I would hope that if you're going skiing in the Z, you have your heater hooked up! With the heater on, hot coolant gets shunted from the back of the head to the water pump inlet thus performing a similar function to the manifold loop. Now, assuming that the heater is connected and functional may be a big IF for Z-car owners (including myself ). I think icing is the big issue at play here, so if the car is only driven in warm climates, removing it doesn't cause much issue. There will be no water pump cavitation if the HVAC control is switched to HEAT while the car is warming up. Warm-up time will be affected, but not too badly if the temperature is already "warm".

OSPHO or Naval Jelly should take care of it.

A can of engine enamel is a lot cheaper.

Fire kindling.

Pelican shows them as being the same PN: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/MISC/POR_MISC_mohubs_pg7.htm

Adjust valve lash and check cam timing while doing so. The FSM has all the info for this, download it from xenons130.com.

My '71 also had rivets.

Very nice! I'll have to get a quote when the time comes.