Leon

Get a timing gun on it. Carbs don't matter at this point since you're spraying starting fluid in there.

Looks great, Clive! Are you running a reverse flow cooling system or is the upper rad hose on backwards? Late nights can do that to you, believe me. I ran into very similar issues when setting up to coil pack, in terms of firing order. I've got a video in my build thread that shows the coil pack and its firing order. The stock mechanical pump delivers enough fuel for my needs, but I'm running an L24 with a stock cam. I removed the 260Z electrical pump, put a new filter back there and it's running great. FWIW, when I was using the electric pump back there, all I did was jump a relay in order to get it to run during key "ON". I believe I jumped the alternator (engine speed sensing) relay but didn't bother with the starter relay since I was using the mech pump as well. Looking at the wiring diagram, jump BW and GW on the alternator relay connector and the same colors on the starter relay connector and you will effectively bypass the relays without needing to run extra wiring (besides the jumpers)! If you do this, I recommend installing an inertia or oil-pressure switch in the circuit as a safety. I didn't have issues with the J-hook on my early 260Z, but the rod that connects the bellcrank to the J-hook bracket had to be adjusted to max length. I see why you have issues, your Webers have their throttle cranks on the opposite side. This build is looking awesome! Better get some good video... or else.

I go to google first. The only time I use the search bar in any forum is when doing an advanced search (perhaps posts made by a certain person or for a chronological list of posts within a certain subforum). Maybe we should have a "how to search" FAQ? While plenty of people can turn a wrench, this seems to be a skill that many are lacking. e.g. (1) Go to google.com (2) Type in detailed keywords related to your query (3) After the keywords, type in "site:hybridz.org", quotes and italics unnecessary in actual use. You can use the "site:" command to search any site. (4) If you don't get good hits, start making your keywords less detailed or try different keywords (5) Another strategy when you don't get good hits, if you see a lot of other words coming up not related to your search use the "-" (minus) command. This excludes keywords you don't want from the search results. Example: you want to search for "diff swap" on HybridZ but don't care about R230 swaps. Type in "diff swap -R230 site:hybridz.org". This will eliminate any hit with the word "R230" in it. Appendix A If you encounter a term or word you don't know, use google or dictionary.com. If it's an acronym you're not familiar with, e.g. "ITB", you will likely find the meaning by google searching "itb car". This is an automotive site and most of the acronyms are very likely to be related to cars. If it's a word you don't know, e.g. "trunnion", then copy/paste it into dictionary.com. Appendix B Google has it's own search tips, located HERE. Use them. Tip: In the midst of a search, even tangential results and discussions for your query may lead to some interesting results and help you learn something new or something you've been curious about. Happens all the time!

I've got the same clutch/flywheel combo sitting in my garage, waiting to be installed. What clutch you go with depends on how much torque you're putting through it, not the flywheel.

You'll be fine.

Very nice job!

Excellent! Be sure to post video, I need to hear this thing.

Why drive a supercharger from the driveshaft, when it can be driven off of the crank? There are losses between crank and driveshaft which means there is less power available to drive the SC. Similar issues exist with remote mounted turbos, there is less heat and pressure available to spin the turbine than there would be if it were mounted right next to the engine. Sure, it'll work, but other than to be "cool" and "different" I don't see a reason to do so.

There is a simple test procedure in the FSM, in the Charging section of chapter EE.

Put more gas in the tank.

Some more than others.

Thanks John, I'm assuming you don't sell the HTS anymore. The 112F and 102F are shorter than stock inserts, yes?

The dampers are what really affect the ride. A broad range of springs can be used as long as they're properly damped. The issue in using high spring rates in the S30 is that the body is really not that rigid to be able to fully take advantage of it, unless the body is somehow stiffened. The 280Z is very likely more torsionally stiff than a 240Z, but by how much I don't know.

That's a good point and I'm planning on doing the typical GC setup pretty soon. I don't want to use Tokicos but there aren't many options outside of that. John, are there any inserts with digressive valving that are currently on the market and can fit a sectioned 240Z strut tube? I know you're planning on selling some Bilsteins sometime in the near future, but it seems as though they require strut modifications? Feel free to PM me if you'd rather do that.

Hell, I take off from a standstill in 2nd gear with my L24-powered Z! First is pretty much only for uphill take-offs. This is partially because my trans/diff combo isn't great (3.9 behind an early 5-speed), but these engines are freakin torquey, turbo or not.

Just awesome. I hope I can see this thing in person some day!

Check out the wiring diagram. I believe you have to activate the wire but I haven't done this myself. Many other have though and you should be able to find out how it's done. You don't need a battery to check the wiring. Get yourself a long cable and alligator clips and you can run continuity checks on anything you want.

Every S30 cam will have some overlap. Cast is fine for a street engine. I'm with ZIP, the cam mentioned looks better but will have a fairly high powerband on an L24. Call up Isky and talk with them, but make sure you have solidified your goals for the build. Otherwise you'll be wasting their and your own time.

This is a repaint of 260Z 110 Red, I didn't do the repaint. I think it looks a bit more orange than the original but it's close. This is post-detail:

This may sound strange, but sometimes I really like the look of a deep red wine-colored Z. I've been eyeing colors for my '71 as well. Cygnusx1's 240Z: Reminds me of the Burgundy on Porsche 944's: Definitely not a common color, but I like it.

Unless you removed it, there should already be wiring in place for the fuel pump next to the gas tank, behind the right rear wheel. As far as the cooling fan, why not run a clutch fan? There is no added electrical circuitry and no additional load on the charging system, plus the clutch fan works great. I've not had an issue with mine and the temp gauge needle rarely gets past the "E" if that matters (rebuilt cooling system, 180deg thermostat).

LS1 and no budget concern? Time for ITBs!

https://www.google.com/#hl=en&output=search&sclient=psy-ab&q=3.9+turbo+site:hybridz.org&oq=3.9+turbo+site:hybridz.org&gs_l=hp.3...527.7184.0.7456.26.22.0.0.0.0.737.3791.3j8j3j0j1j1j1.17.0.les%3B..0.0...1c.1.bxx77lg3_wo&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&fp=3711ae5bed1ccc88&bpcl=35277026&biw=1088&bih=563

Wow, fantastic work! That Z is going to turn out great. It sure would be nice to have a shop like that.