Leon

A can of engine enamel is a lot cheaper.

Fire kindling.

Pelican shows them as being the same PN: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/MISC/POR_MISC_mohubs_pg7.htm

Adjust valve lash and check cam timing while doing so. The FSM has all the info for this, download it from xenons130.com.

My '71 also had rivets.

Very nice! I'll have to get a quote when the time comes.

Looking good. Do you have the part number for the merge collector? I plan to go single eventually as well, I may have to take some elements of your design if you don't mind!

My Z's don't have EGR, so I don't know. However, you will automatically fail smog for no EGR on your ZX.

I'm not sure about the 280Z, but most modern EFI systems have a "flood clear" mode, i.e. if the TPS detects WOT at cranking the ECU will turn off the injectors.

Clive! You're not allowed to post porn on hybridZ!!!

As for the carb-manifold interference, how about some thicker soft mounts between the two? Like seen here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/109179-triple-40mm-mikunis-and-n42-head/page__pid__1021537#entry1021537 I know Dave (cygnusx1) made a bellcrank to use the cold start units with minimal hassle.

Yes, enjoy it! I try to work on the Z only when I'm satiated with driving it around and/or some issue is really bugging me.

"Finish" it up and drive it for a while. After logging a few thousand miles, you'll have a good list of stuff to do, believe me!

Bingo.

That's great! I'll be doing this eventually when I get back to work on my 240Z shell (whenever that will be ). Good write-up!

Nicely done! A bit less cumbersome than the 1st iteration. It will be nice to have cruise in the Z for those long highway trips.

Looking good! I'm digging the Clifford Research header. Let me know if you have any questions regarding Megajolt.

Sounds like a damper issue to me. You are having to soften the Tokicos, which have very stiff compression damping, a lot in order to be comfortable. However, given the "bounciness", this says that the spring rate/damper combo is now very underdamped, meaning that the damper has less control of the spring/mass. A damper with relatively stiff low-speed damping but softer high-speed damping should still perform well, while riding better. I'm hoping to find a damper that can accomplish this and accomodate a Z coilover install as well, as my Z has Eibachs/HPs now which ride rough and have very little bump travel before the ES poly bumpstop (which I haven't cut, yet). The nicer bump stops should help too, if you hit them often. Just take a look at a bumpstop some time and it will be pretty obvious whether you're been riding them or not. A lower unsprung/sprung weight ratio will improve ride and generally decreasing unsprung weight (wheels, tires, brakes, some suspension parts, etc.) will have a positive effect on ride, handling, acceleration, braking and traction.

You're right on the former bit, but not the latter. Higher velocity generates more "backpressure" (pumping losses).

I always have a pair in the car, can't go more than 30min without them.

I swear to god, I'm gonna pistol whip the next person that says "back pressure"! Read the exhaust sticky. FWIW, I like the first video after he added the resonator. Nice, crisp sound. My next exhaust is going to be a 3" single, have 2" duals now (L24).

Right, although that's without taking d into account.

You did the math wrong, again.

Donate $20 to the site and list it in the classifieds here. A good body shouldn't be too hard to sell, probably fetch $400-500 or so depending on condition.

Just a little bit of algebra... You're using: f=nv/2(L+.3d) You have a known frequency (f), speed of sound (v), pipe diameter (d), and the harmonic you're shooting for (n). You want a length of pipe that accomplishes this. This means solve for L: Multiply both sides by (L+.3d): f(L+.3d)=nv/2 Divide both sides by f: L+.3d=nv/2f Subtract .3d from both sides, and voila: L=(nv/2f) - .3d Then as they say, "plug and chug". n=1 is 1st harmonic n=2 is 2nd harmonic n=3 is 3rd harmonic ... [edited typo]