Leon

Thanks again, John. His calculus threw me off (the acceleration 1-6 bit is wrong) but the rest was an interesting read as usual.

Dude, video! I was having more thoughts on going 1UZ in my 240Z yesterday! I'll have to re-review this thread.

Great info, thanks for clearing that up Jon.

ПонÑтно. Ðу, желаю тебе удачи! Я был бы рад проверить возможные покупки, еÑли они находÑÑ‚ÑÑ Ð½ÐµÐ´Ð°Ð»ÐµÐºÐ¾ от Сан ФранциÑко. Давай, ищи!

Alex, I didn't know you speak Russian?

Agreed, driveshaft and half-shaft fasteners would be the first thing to check.

Большое ÑпаÑибо!! Конечно, кaк можÑÑ‚ не нравица! Давай, прилетай Ñюда.

This isn't going to help as it affects clutch engagement, not disengagement.

Ouch, looks like something got into the combustion chamber and pounded against the piston and head. Are you entirely sure nothing got into the intake while you had it?

Those are Weber DGVs. I wouldn't touch them, sell them if you can but don't expect much. As JSM said, find a set of round-top SUs. They'll perform better and be easier to tune. However, that car has hundreds of dollars of good parts: engine, transmission, R200 diff + mustache bar, axles, other misc stuff, etc. PM Superdan for donation info.

Да-да, но не так хорошо. Mне било Ñемь лет, когда мы переехали в Ðмерику. Во вÑÑком Ñлучае, Ñ Ð¼Ð¾Ð³Ñƒ читать нормально.

Bleed first, make sure all the air is out before trying to adjust.

Cool, keep us updated!

This is likely correct.

Здарова КонÑтантин! Чтобы доÑтичь Ñвоей цели, вам нужно чаÑто проверÑÑ‚ÑŒ объÑÐ²Ð»ÐµÐ½Ð¸Ñ Ð½Ð° Ñтом Ñайте и на других Ñайтах, таких как craigslist.org или ebay.com. Проверьте, еÑли продавец может отправить автомобиль через границу и Ñколько Ñто будет Ñтоить, перед покупкой. Может быть, кто-то в вашем районе импортировал автомобили, и знает, как Ñто Ñделать и Ñколько Ñто может Ñтоить. ПроÑтите мою грамматику, и удачи вам!

That's a whole lotta sanding, keep at it!

No problem, enjoy the bushing install...

I scheduled a dyno run on September 8th at Dito's Motors, where I got it dyno'd the first time (posted here). I scheduled it early, so I can still possibly drive up to the BBQ once I'm done at the dyno. The plan is to compare the header/twice pipes with the stock manifold/single, with everything else as it was. I will also compare the difference between the stock timing I ran in the initial baseline to the more advanced timing I run now, plus run the dizzy and EDIS setups back-to-back. Hopefully, I'll have a chance to tune the EDIS spark map as well. The consequences of this are, that I won't be putting in the flywheel/trans/diff in until after the dyno as to not skew the dyno comparison. This means that I'll have from 9/9 to 9/12 to do all of that. Damn my poor timing.

God-forbid you have to spend 2 hours sitting at home browsing on your computer. Oh the humanity!!! I wonder what we did before the internet...

You'll have entrance losses whether it's at the slide or at the inlet of the air horn. You're just moving it further upstream. If you really want to see if they make a difference, dyno test the car and see if you get a part-throttle gain. Radiused air horns will improve performance for multiple reasons (decreased entrance losses, increased resonance effect), but that little slot down the middle won't buy you anything. If anything, I'd see that as a restriction at higher rpm. I'm getting into the details, but either way that's a cool and unique setup!

Have you checked the PCV system for leaks as well?

FWIW, each hole is 4 degrees advanced. Hole three would be 8deg from hole one, not 4deg.

Sounds normal to me, depending on the severity of the "grind". Reverse does not have a syncro. Hold the clutch longer before putting it in reverse or shift into another gear before reverse. Both methods slow the countershaft down so that the spur gear can engage smoother.

Furthermore, I don't think hardened axles would deform like that (Sunny's) without fracturing.