Leon

You're not allowed to make any changes upstream of the catalytic converter, unless you have that sticker that Randy mentioned.

Correct, cooler (denser) air will lean out your mixture. Humidity has a lesser effect.

Yeah, a bit rich so I'm probably losing a few more horses. I'll try to rejet for 12.5-13:1 AFR and see where it gets me. Don't worry, the duals will stay for now!140lb-ft at 3500rpm from an L24 on an load-bearing dyno is pretty healthy, nonetheless.

Dyno Testing a 260Z - Part 2 This is an analysis based on my dyno testing from yesterday (9-8-12). Test Parameters The reason behind testing was to baseline the Nissan Motorsports header/dual pipe exhaust against the stock manifold/single 2.5" that I baselined on page 2. Also tested was the same setup with advanced (from stock) timing, then with air cleaners removed, and finally with EDIS/Megajolt controlling ignition. The settings are as follows: early 260Z with 1972 L24/E88 that was installed by the previous owner stock cam and internals triple 40DCOE-18 Weber carbs with K&N-style filters (no heat shield) Cannon long-runner manifold Nissan Motorsports header with crush-bent true dual 2" pipes Mobil1 synthetic 10W-30 in engine, Redline 75W-90 in transmission (GL-4) and differential (GL-5) Stock 260Z distributor or Ford EDIS run by Megajolt for ignition Testing was done at Dito's Motors in South San Francisco on a Dynomite load-bearing dyno. Robert and David are great guys to work with! Test Settings: Same as page 2, but with a Nissan Motorsport header and 2" twice pipes Results: SOLID lines are the initial baseline DOTTED lines show the new exhaust The new setup made a peak of 130.5lb-ft @ 3350rpm and 115.8hp @ 5600 rpm, compared to the initial baseline of 136.3lb-ft @ 4100rpm and 120.8hp @ 5150rpm. Analysis The results are not unexpected, the single 2.5" did better than the separate duals. It is worth to note that the Nissan Motorsport header brought the torque peak down by about 750rpm when compared to the stock manifold and 2.5 pipe setup! This is caused by the header's very long primaries. The powerband feels like a mini-V8, gobs of torque down low, but still likes to rev. However, mid-range torque took a definite hit. Final Thoughts The twice pipe system does not have a merge collector, which would give gains across the board. Integrating a merge collector can also shift and improve the torque peak. The next iteration of the engine will be jetting the carbs (more for partial throttle cruise, WOT AFR is 11-12), putting in a more aggressive cam to take advantage of the header and to let the engine breathe better at higher rpm. I'd also like to build a single-pipe system utilizing this header. Eventually, I will build up an L28 to drop in. Other Notable Data (not exhaust related): Advancing distributor timing gave peak gains of 2.1lb-ft (132.6lb-ft) and 4.3 hp (120.1hp) Removing the dirty air cleaners gave additional gains of 3.4lb-ft (136.0lb-ft) and 4.2hp (124.3hp) Using EDIS/Megajolt to tune the spark curve gave another additional 4.4lb-ft (140.4lb-ft) and 3.6hp (127.9hp)

I didn't see that point at all in your previous post. No one, including you, ever mentioned using 5W-30 in an L-series. First off, you said: Not sure where this warning comes from, as there is no merit behind it. In fact, that is a recommended viscosity in the FSM. Then you go off on a tangent about some guy putting the wrong oil in his car. FWIW, I use a fully synthetic 10W-30 in my nicely running, beaten up, who-knows-how-many-miles L24. No issues for over the 2 years and thousands of miles. That reminds me, I need to change the oil!

Nice choice, mine is an '04 as well. You'll love it!

Tell me about it! Tools will be packed for sure, as well as spare parts and a fire extinguisher (always in the car). You're definitely right about that! Dyno comes first, then we'll see what happens.

I could just imagine having to take 4 hours to get the exhaust off and on, and stipping the last fastener that I install. Not to mention worrying about the condition of the newly installed components over a 600mi road trip. I'm not about to willingly go through that stress!

Thanks Bill! Congrats on pulling the pins out, welcome to the club! I tried the typical method of inserting a hacksaw and cutting the steel inserts out but that was a friggin pain. I ended up walking the LCAs over to my neighbor's house. He has air tools. A die-grinder made quick work of it. We used a grinding bit that could fit into the bushing cavity, cut a slot or two in it and pounded it out. Good luck!

Good call.

Nice, that's going to be a sweet setup!

That's a great video, I remember watching that in my mechanical design class back in school!

Finally finished the HID install on Saturday. Damn it's nice to have bright headlights, especially coming from stock/non-relay'd ones. I never got what the fuss about HIDs was, until I got the S2k which has amazing headlights! I'm glad I put these on the Z, it should make night driving a whole lot safer especially for the upcoming JCCS trip. After mulling it over, I decided not to be a maniac and not try to swap the trans, diff and clutch in 1 day, 3 days before the road trip. I can smell Murphy's Law wafting in. If the exhaust wasn't such a PITA to remove, I might have considered it. Instead, I'll do some maintenance (brakes, HVAC, weatherstripping, carb jetting, thermostat, etc.) and try to make the trip as comfortable and successful as possible. The swaps will have to wait until some point after JCCS and likely after the month of September.

Right, not sure if I follow that logic... Someone's VW didn't run correctly because he put the wrong viscosity oil in it, therefore you'll never use any xW-30 oil?

Wow, that is coming together VERY nicely!

How about these: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/108741-triple-weber-40-dcoe/page__pid__1016877#entry1016877

The 'Vette was too "mid-life crisis" for me , and the interior was very underwhelming. The LS engine is a beauty though and 30mpg with 400hp is downright awesome! Besides, I'd wanted an S2000 for years! I've gotten the cute comments, but just from girls and I don't mind . It reminds me of a modern-day Z, lightweight, timeless looks (IMO of course), and a fantastic engine plus a great chassis to complement it, not to mention the transmission (best I've used). I was most impressed about how reliable it is considering its nature, and maintenance is easy. Just like the original Z! With that said, either choice is a good one. There's a reason the C5 Z06 was in my "final three"!

I suppose it would depend on the car. From your avatar, I'm guessing you have a 280Z? Download the FSM from xenons30.com and trace the appropriate wiring diagram from the ignition switch and find one that you feel is suitable. That's what I did to power the secondary fuse box in my Z. I used the neutral safety switch (which had already been bypassed) wiring in my early 260Z.

Good point, stay focused Alex!

Buy the S2000, because you will give up that comfort on a modified Z-car. I have an S2000 as well, although I don't drive it everyday (commute is 100 miles round trip). However, it feels like a luxury car when driving it back-to-back with my Z, yet manages to corner better! Now, my Z isn't as sorted as I'd like it to be but it'll never get to the level of the S2k in terms of comfort/cornering prowess. The S2000 is about as far from a chick's car as you can get, how many girls have you seen driving them? The C5 Z06 was on my shopping list (along with an E36 M Coupe) but didn't make the cut. They're more expensive over here, and although the numbers are staggering, it just doesn't "do it" for me.

Curious as to why, did you get carbs? You can find used manifolds for half of that or less.

Hope you're using a puller!

That doesn't sound like a slipping clutch. A slipping clutch would let the engine rev, but the car won't keep accelerating. Does it ever go above 5000rpm? Maybe your brake fluid is cooking and locking up the brakes, but that's a SWAG. Maybe you're smelling burnt brake.

Before trying heavy return springs, make sure the main throttle rod is not binding. I've read about many (most?) having issues with rod-end alignment on the Cannon manifolds, thus binding the shaft and not returning to idle properly. At the moment, I'm only running 2 rod-ends (my middle one was bent!). My throttle is smoother, easier to control and returns better.