Leon

Looks like a decent starting point, good luck with the project! Oh, and it is against forum rules to mention "restoring an NSX" and not posting pictures in the accompanying thread.

Nah, that's normal.

I have a 4.375 R200 CLSD sitting around and can check what mine is like. I haven't had it apart, but not sure on its history. I'll just have to remember to do so after I get home from work...

Bingo!

Remove the needle from the piston and you'll take the needle and nozzle out of the picture. If it moves freely with the needle removed, you'll know for sure that it's a needle/nozzle issue.

I'm with you on the backpressure deal, but exhausts are "tuned" to a certain harmonic resonance not velocity. I think Mike meant that the engine is not "self-tuning" nor the fuel maps readily adjustable and thus the engine cannot be altered much before fueling problems show up, he just phrased it poorly. With that said, I don't think a free-flowing exhaust would hurt an otherwise stock ZX. The header, maybe, but not the exhaust post-collector.

Alex, the "C-cam" is not worth it, IMO. It has a little more duration and less lift, meaning it really isn't getting you anywhere. Might as well toss the cash into your toilet and flush. I'm with Z-Greek, if you're spending money on a cam, spend it on one that makes sense and is tailored to your needs. Isky does regrinds for what it's going to take for you to buy that rusty cam. You will be far ahead using Isky. You'll want resurfaced rockers with any cam change. You can run whatever cam you like with triples. I run a stock 240Z cam with my Webers and the low end torque is fantastic. Runs out of steam by 6000-6500rpm though. Stop by and I'll give you a ride sometime. It's all up to what you want. I bet Ron can set you up with a sweet street cam, all you need is a core.

Not really. Retarded timing increases exhaust temps, not burn temps.

Nice, how about some video!

Great idea!

Took the car off the road for a few weeks and have been taking my time getting it back. Finally put some work in the past few days. I removed the carbs in order to replace a leaky intake/exhaust gasket. In my haste to install the header last September, I didn't replace the gasket. It was very fresh and I thought, "why the hell not". The picture shows why the hell not: Yes, leaks from every port! So I decided to do a mild refresh, since I can't go too crazy with the ZONC show coming up on the 28th. The Z needs to run in order to make it there! I cleaned up what I removed and painted the intake and air filter covers. New soft mounts and bottom gaskets (not pictured) from Pierce Manifolds. Great prices and shipping was quick since they're only 70 miles away. And I installed Dave's billet linkage arms (mock-up photo). One issue I ran into was the middle heim joint caused misalignment of the throttle rod. I "solved" this by removing the middle joint. This will be temporary and I'll get new joints eventually. I'll be on the road and (hopefully) running better than ever next week! There is plenty of work to be done in the meantime and I'm trying to get a few big things done before JCCS.

If you don't like your inlaws, the Yaris is perfect. Otherwise, they'd be much better off getting a used Civic or Mazda3.

The mustache bar looks like the R180 type, the way it bends gives it away. FWIW, the curved transverse link crossmember came about in '72. Looks like a PO did the R200 conversion with 240Z parts.

Check rejracer's comment.

Sounds exactly like the symptons I had with loose driveshaft bolts. Check and properly torque all driveline fasteners, starting with the driveshaft.

I've driven the Lotus and sat in the BRZ, and I can tell you that the BRZ is a hell-of-a-lot more comfortable than the Elise! I'm 6'2", 185lb and barely fit in the Lotus, and this is with the top down. Plus, the Subie is a bit more practical than the Lotus. The BRZ felt great, I was surprised by the comfortable yet supportive seats and spacious head room. I'd definitely like to drive one sometime. Don't think I'd trade my S2000 for one though! BTW, I watched yesterday made by our own "karotta", nice take on the car. I agree on the styling, I think they over-did the front but the overall shape and proportions of the car are well done. I'd change the wheels though.

240Z FSM, page EC-2.

Yes, but if clearances keep rapidly getting smaller after break-in, you have issues elsewhere.

That's exactly what I was going to point out. As the valve wears into the valve seat, it will move up, thus decreasing clearance.

So this vibration happens when revving the car in the driveway, transmission in neutral? Clutch in or out?

As far as cruise mixture, Tony is spot on. Run it as lean as you can without misfire. Whoever told you 13:1 is probably used to 4-barrels or air-cooled engines... The reason behind the carbs "liking" to run rich idea is based on inefficient designs that don't evenly distribute the mixture across all cylinders. Imagine a 4-barrel, or even the stock SUs on an L-series. The intake tracts are not equal length, and are fed by either one or two carburetors. It is impossible to get the same exact AFR to each cylinder. You might be richer on 2 cylinders, but leaner on 4, which would cause issues (surging, rough running, misfire, etc) when trying to lean them out. With triples, you have a dedicated venturi for each cylinder. This allows for much better mixture uniformity, and thus a leaner AFR before experiencing misfire. Set WOT at 12.5:1 to 13:1, set idle as lean as you can without misfire or transition bogs, and set cruise to lean just before misfire. Tony, where in the world did you find those elusive 2TGs and 18RGs with OEM triples?

Heck of a job, Dan! Hope to see you out and about in your now-turbo Z!

...but you have to order their exhaust along with it.

FWIW, a leaky slave will not cause a clutch to slip.

There is no myth. The tach must be hooked up, or shorted, in order for a 240Z to start (current-triggered tach), but not a 260Z or 280Z (voltage triggered).