Leon

Sounds exactly like the symptons I had with loose driveshaft bolts. Check and properly torque all driveline fasteners, starting with the driveshaft.

I've driven the Lotus and sat in the BRZ, and I can tell you that the BRZ is a hell-of-a-lot more comfortable than the Elise! I'm 6'2", 185lb and barely fit in the Lotus, and this is with the top down. Plus, the Subie is a bit more practical than the Lotus. The BRZ felt great, I was surprised by the comfortable yet supportive seats and spacious head room. I'd definitely like to drive one sometime. Don't think I'd trade my S2000 for one though! BTW, I watched yesterday made by our own "karotta", nice take on the car. I agree on the styling, I think they over-did the front but the overall shape and proportions of the car are well done. I'd change the wheels though.

240Z FSM, page EC-2.

Yes, but if clearances keep rapidly getting smaller after break-in, you have issues elsewhere.

That's exactly what I was going to point out. As the valve wears into the valve seat, it will move up, thus decreasing clearance.

So this vibration happens when revving the car in the driveway, transmission in neutral? Clutch in or out?

As far as cruise mixture, Tony is spot on. Run it as lean as you can without misfire. Whoever told you 13:1 is probably used to 4-barrels or air-cooled engines... The reason behind the carbs "liking" to run rich idea is based on inefficient designs that don't evenly distribute the mixture across all cylinders. Imagine a 4-barrel, or even the stock SUs on an L-series. The intake tracts are not equal length, and are fed by either one or two carburetors. It is impossible to get the same exact AFR to each cylinder. You might be richer on 2 cylinders, but leaner on 4, which would cause issues (surging, rough running, misfire, etc) when trying to lean them out. With triples, you have a dedicated venturi for each cylinder. This allows for much better mixture uniformity, and thus a leaner AFR before experiencing misfire. Set WOT at 12.5:1 to 13:1, set idle as lean as you can without misfire or transition bogs, and set cruise to lean just before misfire. Tony, where in the world did you find those elusive 2TGs and 18RGs with OEM triples?

Heck of a job, Dan! Hope to see you out and about in your now-turbo Z!

...but you have to order their exhaust along with it.

FWIW, a leaky slave will not cause a clutch to slip.

There is no myth. The tach must be hooked up, or shorted, in order for a 240Z to start (current-triggered tach), but not a 260Z or 280Z (voltage triggered).

They're not blinkers, just "sidemarkers". The orange ones are front and the red are rear, FWIW.

I made the electric pump in my 260Z prime at IGN ON by following the wiring diagram, unplugging one of the fuel pump relays and using a jumper to feed power at key on.

Nice!

I don't think you're following what I'm saying. You can be more stable or less stable while turning. A lower PMOI car is inherently less stable, meaning a jerk of the wheel will have a more dramatic effect. What might be good for an F1 driver, may not be for Joe Average. Some stability is good, and the more centered you make the weight, the less stability you have, hence "inherent destabilizing effect". Again, weight distribution and PMOI are 2 separate concepts. Just because you have 50/50 weight distribution does not mean that you have a low PMOI, and a low PMOI does not mean that you have 50/50 weight distribution!

If you're just cutting an old muffler out and welding a new one in, get a hold of Todd. Just call to make sure he has the time and I bet he'll have it done pretty quick as long as you tell him what the plan is. He got my entire exhaust done 3 days after I dropped the car off, and I told him to take his time.

Looks like they got it spot on. If you plan to run bigger injectors, get a higher flowing pump.

You can either use Tony's method, or just buy some BSPT plugs if you're only looking to seal holes. I use local places like certain Ace Hardware locations, Bowlin Equipment, or Global Metric (no, I'm not affiliated with these place, just a heads up to those in the area), I don't know if they have websites so I just linked to Yelp. I'm sure you can find some online if you don't have specialty hardware stores nearby. There are a bunch in my area, but you never know until you look.

Hey, whaddaya know! Someone actually got a pump curve! As you can see, the fuel pump's rated delivery all depends on your regulated fuel pressure. If you know what fuel pressure your going to run, you will know how much flow your fuel pump is supposed to deliver.

You can increase timing and lean it out if you just want to reduce CO and HC, although I wouldn't expect a drastic reduction in HC (CO will drop to an acceptable level). HC levels will largely depend on valve overlap, and you can't change that without putting a different cam in. Try to lean it out (without misfire of course) and see what happens, but as I said earlier, don't be surprised if you have to reinstall a stock cam in order to pass.

I wouldn't make that deduction yet. Could just be air bubbles getting out. I'd measure compression and check the coolant for discoloration and gas smell before coming to that conclusion.

Leaning out plus advancing timing will considerably increase NOx formation. I doubt you'd pass the test if there is a NOx requirement. Otherwise, leaning the mixture out will reduce CO and HC but HC is also a result of having a cam with more overlap. You may have to put in a stock cam if you can't pass the test.

Got mine from O'Reilly years ago.

There are many different standards for pipe threads. All Z pipe threads are BSPT, not the common NPT. The differences between NPT and BSPT lie in the geometry of the threads themselves (angle). Pitch and diameter are equal so they'll thread in the same hole, but they likely won't be air tight.

This is all in the FSM. Download at xenons30.com, Reference section.