Leon

They're not blinkers, just "sidemarkers". The orange ones are front and the red are rear, FWIW.

I made the electric pump in my 260Z prime at IGN ON by following the wiring diagram, unplugging one of the fuel pump relays and using a jumper to feed power at key on.

Nice!

I don't think you're following what I'm saying. You can be more stable or less stable while turning. A lower PMOI car is inherently less stable, meaning a jerk of the wheel will have a more dramatic effect. What might be good for an F1 driver, may not be for Joe Average. Some stability is good, and the more centered you make the weight, the less stability you have, hence "inherent destabilizing effect". Again, weight distribution and PMOI are 2 separate concepts. Just because you have 50/50 weight distribution does not mean that you have a low PMOI, and a low PMOI does not mean that you have 50/50 weight distribution!

If you're just cutting an old muffler out and welding a new one in, get a hold of Todd. Just call to make sure he has the time and I bet he'll have it done pretty quick as long as you tell him what the plan is. He got my entire exhaust done 3 days after I dropped the car off, and I told him to take his time.

Looks like they got it spot on. If you plan to run bigger injectors, get a higher flowing pump.

You can either use Tony's method, or just buy some BSPT plugs if you're only looking to seal holes. I use local places like certain Ace Hardware locations, Bowlin Equipment, or Global Metric (no, I'm not affiliated with these place, just a heads up to those in the area), I don't know if they have websites so I just linked to Yelp. I'm sure you can find some online if you don't have specialty hardware stores nearby. There are a bunch in my area, but you never know until you look.

Hey, whaddaya know! Someone actually got a pump curve! As you can see, the fuel pump's rated delivery all depends on your regulated fuel pressure. If you know what fuel pressure your going to run, you will know how much flow your fuel pump is supposed to deliver.

You can increase timing and lean it out if you just want to reduce CO and HC, although I wouldn't expect a drastic reduction in HC (CO will drop to an acceptable level). HC levels will largely depend on valve overlap, and you can't change that without putting a different cam in. Try to lean it out (without misfire of course) and see what happens, but as I said earlier, don't be surprised if you have to reinstall a stock cam in order to pass.

I wouldn't make that deduction yet. Could just be air bubbles getting out. I'd measure compression and check the coolant for discoloration and gas smell before coming to that conclusion.

Leaning out plus advancing timing will considerably increase NOx formation. I doubt you'd pass the test if there is a NOx requirement. Otherwise, leaning the mixture out will reduce CO and HC but HC is also a result of having a cam with more overlap. You may have to put in a stock cam if you can't pass the test.

Got mine from O'Reilly years ago.

There are many different standards for pipe threads. All Z pipe threads are BSPT, not the common NPT. The differences between NPT and BSPT lie in the geometry of the threads themselves (angle). Pitch and diameter are equal so they'll thread in the same hole, but they likely won't be air tight.

This is all in the FSM. Download at xenons30.com, Reference section.

Rated flow goes up with decreasing pressure. Ask for the pump curve.

"Quicker reacting" is inherently less stable than "slower reacting". There is no way around it, it's physics. Whether that is good or bad is up to the end user. I wouldn't want a very low PMOI car on a huge oval but I would in an autoX. Road courses are a combo of the two. Weight distribution has nothing to do with this. BTW, your post is confusing, I can barely follow what you're saying.

You want to do an engine swap but can't figure out how to swap transmissions?

FWIW, a 60/40 car can be made to oversteer and a 40/60 understeer. It's all about setup. A properly setup racecar will be neutral or near-neutral steer, no matter what the weight distribution is. PMOI is a different subject, and very much affects how the quickly the car reacts and thus, how it feels. Putting the weight closer to the CG will make it react quicker to inputs which is inherently destabilizing.

JM, interesting ideas, I like where you're going. I really like the innovation and out-of-the-box thinking. Setting limitations based on physics (and not specs) is a fantastic idea! Some people on the other forum just don't get it...

Perfectly summed up.

You're on the right track! I consider a working wideband critical, unless you can set up the carbs on a dyno. Even though you're running Mikunis, I'd still read through Keith Franck's "White Tuning Paper" on Sidedraft Central. Webers and Mikunis work on the same exact principles, just the jet sizes might be a little different because of geometric variations between the two types of carburetors. Before we continue, we need a video... I'll entice you, here's my twice pipe, triple carb Z (including short-shifting and a leaky intake/exhaust gasket!):

Use a heat gun, it'll break down any adhesive that was used to glue that thing on there.

I'd definitely get a matching set. The 151s are a newer design, and feature air bypass screws for each barrel. While that is not a big deal, I believe the idle mixture screws have a different pitch. Thus you'd have widely varying idle screw settings on the two types of carb. Not good. Find an 18 or two 151s.

The acronym FWHP is typically used to describe "front-wheel horsepower". BHP, or "brake horsepower", is the term used to describe power measured at the flywheel. It is called so, because of the use of a brake to measure power at the engine's flywheel on an engine dyno. Semantics... Again, the L28E was rated at something like 140-170 BHP, depending on what standard is being used to quantify that power.

Main jet controls operation where your foot is heavy on the gas or you're above a certain rpm. That certain rpm is determined by your air jet. The smaller the air jet (bleed), the sooner your mains "come on" (higher vacuum signal).