Scottie-GNZ

Look at all that squat. Must be slowing that car down

Where is the drag strip located in Kuwait? Sure wish they had one when I lived there. Only motor racing action when I was there was the kart track and the occasional rally.

Yup. I was with them today. He ran a 3rd-gen RX7 which redlighted and lost but protested because Mark forgot to install his wipers and NHRA DQ'd him. Did not matter since he broke a rocker but what a sore loser! Next event Mark hopes he lines up with the sore loser again and is not only going to have the wipers installed, he plans to make the pass with the wipers on BTW, he is running the Z32TT tranny in case anyone doubts it strength.

Be careful and dont get caught up in the N/A high RPM mentality. Just because it is capable of revving to 67-6800 does not mean it should be revved that high. If it has the stock cams, there is no need to rev it much past 6200 and I am willing to bet, with the boost level you are running, that if you shifted the 1-2 & 2-3 at 6200 and let the engine spend more time under load in 3rd and 4th, it will go quicker and faster!

Damn! Now we have another "alky" on our hands. Lets hope you get completely hooked by SEZ Better you find a new weakness close to home than at the starting line in Reynolds, GA, 400 miles from home

Agreed. Most all full-time drag cars run a spool, effectively the same thing as welding the spider gears. Make sure that diff is completely cleaned out of all lubricants and you get good penetration on the welds.

I would resist the urge to open that link as it spews out all kinds of pop-ups. Maybe someone can include the actual pic in the post for others to see.

JT says he will be there! OTOH, unless you have done some upgrades, I would say what you are packing in your sig could not hold a candle to an RB, no matter how shiny their valve covers are :D Only one way to find out.

Hey "John Doe" , which car are we talking about and what happened? Bring me up to date.

Come to the SEZ and you can get up close and personal with it. Trust me, pics does not do it justice, especially the small detailed craftmanship and the fact that the one-piece front-end you see was not originall one-piece and some of the pieces were made from scratch.

You mean the pusher, I hope.

Your hotrodding experience is not complete until you experience this in person. It is an experience you will never forget. Having said that, the NHRA Gatornationals is March 17-19 at Gainesville Raceway. Anyone up for going on Saturday?

Yes, they are in Orlando. It's possible they might be at the SEZ testing 2 race cars if they can then get done in time.

We just watched a video that focused only on cars backfiring (most looked like nitrous backfires) and inexperienced drivers. Anyone can go to any track in the USA and over a day or 2 make a video of cars and drivers doing the same thing.

You will certainly save space for the I/C itself but the I/C is just part of the system. You also need a heat exchanger, tank and pump. Water definitely dissipates heat better than air but in the procees the water gets heated and must be cooled to be effective. At the track, addig ice is where it really shines but that is impractical for the street making it not much better than an air-to-air. As Yasin said, it adds complexity. Given the cost of air-to-air I/Cs these days, you can find a really efficient A-A that gives up very little on the street. Now if you are building a mostly track car, then that's a different story.

HUH? Why on earth do you think an L28ET with the proper mods (bolt-ons) would be unreliable at 315-345rwhp?

Mazworx - 1-877-MAZWORX Ask for Mark and tell him Scottie and Mike referred you. He did my cage and the cage and fabrication work on Mike's 2jz-Z.

Give the guys a break. Most of you would sh*t your shorts if it were you behind the wheel of some of those monsters.

Here is another "Me vs TransAm". Wonder what they were saying on the LS1 forums about this one. http://videos.streetfire.net/player.aspx?fileid=7FBEF634-362C-44EB-8F28-A39606487BF4

"Ole Blue Z, dropping 12 to 18 year old girls panties since 2006.." Maybe I am just an old fart but given some of the issues we have in society today, I would like to suggest you adjust the numbers from that line in your sig.

Man, I cannot believe the price of these I/Cs today. If the advertised pressure drop is to be believed (.2 - .5psi @ 15psi) that is fantastic. The end-to-end width is 25" so factor in the extra width for the required 90* bend on each end and make sure it will fit OK.

You are correct that they can both hit 400rwhp and good luck with which ever choice you make. I am responding because I want to clear up what I believe are some misperceptions. I would be willing to bet that if both made the same 400rwhp, the turbo V6 will have more torque. If you want "mean" sound, then the V8 is hard to beat. However sound is subjective. Consider that most ricers with their fart cans think their cars sound "mean". Physical size means nothing more that the engine takes up more room in the engine bay. Having bigger diaplacement means nothing more that the engine has the potential to ingest more into its bigger cylinders. The important thing is how close the engine comes to filling 100% of that displacement. That is why you add bigger carbs or TB/injs, bigger valves, cams that open the valves wider and keep them open longer, exhaust to scavenge the cylinders for a purer intake charge, etc. The more of that you do, the closer you come to 100% efficiency with an N/A but the more you compromise low-speed driveability. Except for exotic race engines, an N/A engine will never see 100% so a 350ci SBC is not really 350ci where it counts. That is how come you see 2-bbl 350s make 180hp and LS1s making 345hp from the same displacement. OTOH, turbos are different and given the amount of boost, will almost always be well over 100% of it physical displacement because the turbo compresses the air going into the engine. If a turbo engine has 100% efficiency, it has the potential to increase its displacement by its original size for every 1-bar (14.7psi) boost. So, the 3.0L engine at 14.7psi has the potential to put 6.0L of intake charge into its cylinders and at 29.4psi, it becomes 9.0L. etc. Again, 100% efficiency is hard to attain with a street car but you get the idea and understand why a 3.0L with a fair amount of boost can have equal or more torque that an N/A almost double the displacement of the turbo V6. Yes it will IF you make it detonate. As others said, ignore the "advice" from the zcar.com folks. You do not need to open that engine to make 350-400rwhp. Do a compression AND a leakdown to make sure you have a good engine to begin with then add components that will help limit detonation. Do not think HP, think detonation prevention. Heat is the enemy of any engine but the death knell for a turbo engine so make sure the intake charge temp at the TB is as low as possible by using an efficient turbo that does not generate heat (IOW, do not run the stock turbo to 20psi just because you can), I/C, DP/exhaust and required fuel pressure/volume/octane. The more you can limit detonation, the more boost you can safely run, the more power you will make. It is detonation that stresses the engine. Just because one can get get a "350 SBC" cheap from the junkyard does not mean it will be cheap to get 350-400rwhp out of it. To get that power, the only thing you would end up keeping is the bare block. Everything else goes in the trash or you end up very disappointed. I am a turbo fan but would not hesitate to put an LSx in my hybrid because they are way more efficient than the old-school SBCs and respond well to mods. Given the cost of I/Cs on eBay today and the development of the low-cost Megasquirt, 2 of the important turbo upgrades makes it an easier decision to mod a turbo engine. One advice I would give is tonot buy a turbo unless it matches the needs of your engine and driving habits. Your best bet is to work with someone like 240Z Turbo to configure the right turbo so you do not end up with the wrong turbo and complaints of turbo lag, etc. A 350rwhp turbo V6 DOES NOT have to have turbo lag. Turbo lag is what you make it. Buy a cheap eBay turbo made for a turbo rotary or a big desiel truck and you will suffer the consequences. OK, I have rambled enough. Time for a nap

Did not think there was such a combination. AFAIK, Buick stopped producing the odd-fire engine for production cars back in -77 or '78. Is it a turbo engine with the turbo sitting on top of the intake? If so it should be EFI. Regardless, if you diagnosed as missing on #6, and all others are OK, then it can only be a few things: bad inj, bad inj connector somewhere between the inj and the ECM, dead coil (but more like would affect 2 cyls, not one), dead plug or bad plug wire, very low compression in that cyl. if it is a carbed engine then ignore what I said related to EFI. Start by swapping a pair plug wires. If that is OK, pull the plug and read it to detrmine if it running lean or rich or it completely coated with oil (which you should have seen out the tailpipe). Put another good plug in it and then based on what you saw on the plug, chase an ignition or fuel problem. HTH