evildky

the holes are a british pipe thread, pretty close to standard metric thread but it's an interferance fit, I'd suggest just retapping the holes to fit whatever adapter you want to use

have you tested witht he stim board? did the inj and spark led's flash? did you have your laptop hooked upa t the time? are all the guages in ms working?

did you install the pull up resistor to the wiring leading from the "Fidle" to the "G" terminal on the HEI? it will not work without the pullup resistor

for all those doubters still fighting the gremlins that you run into along the way let me reasure you it's well worth it! I finally autocrossed my car with MSnS for the first time, it ran great! the powerband felt stronger everywhere, I was running about 13 psi without an I/C running moby's maps with the DSM injectors I was rich the whole way but I'll lean it out when I get an I/C in, the stock system seemed to really be a barrier, it's amazing how much better it felt on the MSnS

my diff cover is held on with only RTV, been there for over 3 years has yet to leak a single drop, and I am running mobil 1 synthetic gear oil, it's easily aquired over the counter I had run redline prior, and my car currently has the viscous unit if that matters

yes thats the popular way to run it, I however hast he orange/yellow wires run as in your schematic with no priblems at all, in a batch fire the 2 banks don't seem to really ba any better than one batch? and I'd seperate your power to 3 on each of the 12 circuits you have 2 on 1 and 4 on the other

Search, it's here and used to be stickied, now you just gotta dig for it

I wired mine with the evens and odds it runs great no issues at all, and it sounds like he has 4 injectors powered on one fuse circuit and 2 on the other, I fed 3 off each of the 2 circuits , each of the two 12v circuits has 2 lugs I used only one lug from each circuit to power the injecors

check the light sockets they can get nasty and start acting up in these 30+ year old cars, asside from that check the connections in your column and then you might have to take a long hard look at your switch

you can try pulling up on the valve if it's stuck but if it's bent and has t be replaced the head is coming off, a good idea would be to find yourself an E31 or whatever head you want and have it freshened up at a machine shop and you can do the swap without as much downtime

finally got my keizers back (the certerbore was too small first go round) and my new 710's mounted, the wheels are 15x7 with a 4" backspacing, the tires are the new V71 225/50/15's, the suspension is ST springs on the stock perches, everything clears as it should no rubbing ahywhere as it should be

the fuel lines have a return so any air in the line is gonna get sent back to your gas tank a schradervalve is for testing and releaving pressure when servicing, as for the fuel pump it will come on when the key is rotated to the run position but will not stay on unless the car is runnings, rotating the key on and off a few times will get the lines good and full of fuel, you'll want to listen carfully of have someone with their head under the car or their hand near the fuel pump to find out if it's coming on, if not check for voltage while rotating the key on and off, if no power check the AFM door, if it's stuck open the fuel pump will not turn on

I think the confusion is that the early tach's worked opposite later ones, can't remember which runs normal I went aftermarket a long time ago

I towed my car on my 2000lb trailer with no brakes to florida and back with my V6 frontier, and I was also packing a bunch of spares and tools as well as luggage, some of the mountain inclines were tough and I was climbing at 50-55 mph but all in all it handled the load quite well, as a matter of handling it handled better than the same load and same trip with my 2004 Cheby Z71, the suspension on the Cheby is a joke IT IS NOT INTENDED TO DO ANY REAL TOWING OR HAULING! sorry but I think it's sad the the Cheby sags and sways so bad with a load the the Nissan handed so well, I had to add airbags to my Cheby to keep from killing myself my trailer is an old Demco their weight is actually over 2k but mine had a tounge swap and just recently got the brakes working again

it would be pretty easy to wired up the unilite dist but depending on which one you have your gonna need to lock it down either the mechanical or vacume, remember were talking boost so you want timing to retard, advance makes things go boom, also keep in mind you have you pull the timing cover and swap the oil pump drive shaft to run a different dist as the optical dist uses a unique driveshaft, or you can run MS without the spark controll and hook your dist to a MSD box with boost retard

So my car is running great thansk to moby's updated maps and my DSM injector swap, I will be autocrossing it with MSnS for the first time sunday, I wanted to set a rev limiter to keep me from reaching too far headed for the corners I found one section for retarding the timing at a certain RPM is there a way of just stopping the ignitiion at taht rpm? anyone running a limiter? how did you go about it what kind of setts if you did the retard thuing how far did you retard it ?

working on my car I noticed the damper looks a bit weatehred, I painted it back when I did my swap, I am running the 240 damper but the rubber seal seems to be peeling out, has anyone had one fail? just wondering if I should be worried or not

most engines spin clockwise, honda's up till their most recent engines all spun backwards, i am sure there have been others that spin backwards but it's a small percentage and I know of no nissan engines to ever spin backwards

my car is running a stock junkyard L28ET swap, no I/C no fancy downpipe just stock with the addition boost controller AFPR of a pallnet fuel rail and MSnS while running the stock managment in Gainesville I decided to up the boost a 1/4 turn of the Turbo XS I was already at 10 psi and was running 110 octane so I figured and extra half a Lb of boost might get me into the 12's (ran 13.010) well that resulted in 15 psi! and yeah it was pinging like crazy! my car was trailers due to electrical issues I put the MSnS back on the car with the bigger injectors and moby's newer maps and turned the boost controller down a turn and a half and it's still hitting 15psi and not pinging (it would appear the engine can handle over 10psi but the stock managment doesn't allow for enbough timing retard) and it made a wierd sound kinda like a bov but I don't have a bov and the stock boost safty valve has been plugged so now to the point, i hooked up a vac/boost pump to the actuator and it doesn't start to move till about 7.5 psi and doesn't reach full swing till 10 psi, I checked another I had on the shelf and it started moving at about 6 psi but still not full open till about 10 psi ? is it possible the the pressure inside the turbo helps to push the wastegate open sooner than the static measurement on the actuator? trying to figure out if i should worry

well if anyone cares I replace dthe regulator which tested good at autozone and everything is back to normal

ok I have had a recouring issue for some time now and untill it would come and go now it won't go ! my car is an early 71, I replaced the fusible link off the staters with a 30amp inline fuse, for some reason it would sometimes blow I'd replace ti and everything would be fine, well now It won't stop blowing with the car off there is no problems, once I start it the fuse will blow after a few minutes of idling, I have removed all the fuses from the interior fuse box except the 2 needed to run the car and it still does it! I replaced the alt and reg about a year ago, I had them tested today and they both checked out ok, any ideas where to look?

there is a company that advertises in GRM I think it was Adco? they will make custom bard for about $200 as I recall

got any pic's? I've been wanting to do that but not sure about cable length

well I was working on an 83 280zxt, the rust and dents got to be too much for the time I had so i just drag my 240Z back for it's third appearance, so they didn't get it corrected quite right