evildky

you can run spark control with either distributor! I believe the whole purpose of the spark controll is to regulate the advance/retard, so you'd want to lockdown whatever advance you have (vacume/mechanical) if you want to keep your vacume advance on an N/A setup you just don't need to bother with the spark control, and you can have the rev control shut off fuel

sorry I'm not a photoshopper so I can't draw on your pics but for the R200 swap you need the diff (I think you figured that much out already), it's output flanges (they are the things that the halfshafts are bolted to on the differential side) and the mustache bar (this is the thing that the back of the R200 differential was bolted to assuming you got it out of a 280Z and not a 280ZX) and thats it it all just bolts in, your car being a 73 I'm pretty sure your driveshaft will still fit, early cars have to use the 280 driveshaft as well due to a slightly different mounting location

you can run spark controll with the na dizzy if you want it's just that the n/a dist uses vacume advance and you have to lock the distributor down to prevent that,the signals and wiring is different from the turbo and most of us added megasquirt to a stock turbo motor which came with...you guessed it and turbo distributor

I'm getting away with 13 psi with no intercooler now because of megasquirt, i'm sure your stock ecu dyno's showed what mine did (lean up top) so with the extra fuel mapping and the extra timing retard I'm able to run 13 psi (actually map converted to more like 12.75 or something) with no ping

most of us just find wrecked 280Zx turbo cars for a few hundred bucks and take everything, I doubt the place down the ioad can reprogram the stock ECU it's old dated technology, the Z31 ecu swap can be chipped but as far as I know the 74.5-83 can not, they are a few tubular exhaust manifolds out there but they cost as much as a complete donor car and they stock manifolds seem to be good for 400whp

I believe the basic fenders, hood, etc. will bolt on 79-83 but the hood vents changed in 81 as did the bumpercover and valance, and welcome to hybridz

I think that pic intentionally made the scoop[ stand otu way more then they do in erson, I've only seen a couple, at first glance you don't even notice them as they mimic the raised portion of the hood exactly, if it's painted to match you wouldn't notice it at a glance

it was actualy only 216.5hp and that was with the timing set very quiclky by ear due to diagnosing a bad ignitor,as for mods on my healthy junk yard motor I was using the smaller early damper, electric fan, 2.5 crush bent exhaust with no muffler, no air filter, 45psi of fuel? (I don't remember exact fuel pressure but it was pig rich on the bottom and lean on top) , home made fuel rail and a 240SX 5 speed, I think the timing would have helped bring a few more hp but my nerves were shot it was a long day and almost didn't get dyno'd it was kinda cool I got on the dyno right after a guy with a stingray vette and a fresh 355, he had more hp but I had more torque all that jaz about american v8 torque went out the window, the domestic guys actually stuck around to watch me run the lil old datsun (I don't think they believed me when I told them I expected 200-220 whp) they seemed real impressed with the numbers and I think a little more respect for little old datsuns

oops missed the version 3, an upgrade might be a good excuse for me to rewire my car

pin #24 will recieve your signal from the opticle dist and you'll need the turbo pump/dist shast to go with that distributor, the diagram you have from megasquirt is for megasquirt only (read as no spark) the fast idle (pin #30) will be your ignition trigger wire for firing your hei or msd or edis or whatever, your stock ignition wiring will be unused with the exception of the hot wire going to the + side of the coil and the tach signal wiring will vary on year and stock vs aftermarket tach

it's a kind wierd set up the shaft is driven by a gear on the crank and it turns both the oil pump and the dist, you can remove the dist and cap the opening (as at least a few have done) and everything still works fine

yeah the crank fired 81's hasn't been used with msns to my knowlege, I'm sure it's basically the same, I can't imagine datsun would have changed what kind of trigger signal they were using

most of us didn't use the modulator, you sure you had it wired preperly? you can always put an inline fuse on the outgoing power wire to the pump if your worried

oh yeah, anyone got a good source for the I/C piping and wht links and lenghts I need or just get a bunch of pieces and start welding? and it's aluminum only for me btw

I'm hoping to get near 300whp with the stock turbo leaving upgrade turbo for later, I'm on a quest to get my junkyard motor with stock junkyard turbo to run 11's I know it sounds little crazy but my car only weighs 2170lbs acording to the calculators I only need about 280whp it dyno'd 220 with the stock injection @9 psi and ran a 13.010 while overheating with that set up as for the radiator, mine is a new 3 row modine I put in last year, did the pump and thermostat at the same time hasn't run cool since, maybe I got a clogged rad from the factory? I just keep replacing parts

the waterpump is an autozone part the thermostat is a Nissan unit the temp was rated in C, I think it converted to like 169f? maybe the autozone pump can't keep up? also I am running the smaller euro damper so it's not spinning as fast as a zx damper would spin it, maybe I need the electric water pump

the zx uses a larger diameter clutch disk and PP, I am wondering if these have 2 sets of dowle pin holes to acomodate either pressure plate?

88 wasn't an aniversary year and the 88ss had a viscous diff, sounds like a regular 88 turbo and the sticks came with a 3.7 gear some of the racers might like to get from you

all the rear brakes from 70-76 are the same, the 77-78 units had the dual piston wheel cylinder, thats what i am running on my car, but I had a parts car so I pulled and blasted the backing plates and rebuilt or replaced everyting and applied them to the 240 strut housings, you also have to have the small hardline from the 280 you can bend the early style line if you must but it's not a good idea

well if it came with the fireball and an optical sensor I'd just run it, you staying N/A or going turbo? if you go turbo you'll have to lockdown the dist unless it's a non advance unit

ok I've decided 13 psi isn't enough and I need to add an intercooler, just wondering what size I/C piping everyone uses? I was thinking 2.5"? just wanted to be sure it was big enugh without taking up to much space also looks like I'm getting an aluminum radiator and the twin 12's don't seem to be cutting it so what electric fans everyone running? I got a taurus fan and it won't even fit as a pusher, my car is an early 71 if that matters or does everyone hack up the fan and or the lower valance support to fit?

It's been done and has it's own forum over on msefi.com, I'm tempted to run edis on mine just so I won't have to deal with the HEI's, you gonna megasquirt your Z ?

you can get 300 whp with the stock ecu, I ran a 13.010 1/4 with the stock injection and it was overheating! no i/C just boost, fuel pressure and lightenss, the hard part is 300whp on the stock turbo, I think the stocker will fall just a bit short of the 300 hp mark

so I am planning on a brake upgrade typical rear disk and fronts with z31 rotors and z 32 callipers, and was considering z31 master and booster, I know the S130 booster is used with this swap a lot and I have a parts car I could pyll one off of but I also have a z31 parts car and just kinda figured it's a heavier and might be a better donor? anyone tried this?

my 83 had a 4 pinion long snout open r200 in it