80LS1T

Well I built the rods yesterday at work. I still have to find some sort of bracket to mount the heim joint to so that I can mount it to the stock location. I found a bracket that would work but I would have to modify it and I would rather just find something that works right out of the box. I am going to do some searching this weekend at the local hardware store to see if I can find anything, if not I'm going to just buy those other brackets. Here's what they look like so far.... One thing I noticed is that the rod end that connects to the lower control arm must have a very very slight bend it in. It was hard to turn the center adjusting rod on it once I got to where I needed it. It was only on one of the rods though, the other side was fine. Maybe my old T/C rod was tweeked? It still adjusts fine just a little stiff on the one side. I'll have to see if it happens on the next set I make I guess? I want to thank Tony C. for his help. I pretty much copied his design. Guy

Which two cylinders are "not firing" and are you able to hook a scanner or laptop up to the OBD1 port to read codes or run a data monitor program?

No but I thought my passenger floor pan was going to come unrivited and fly off! LOL:mrgreen: The A/F with the nitrous on was about 12.4 so I need to richen it up some to get it down to 11.5-11.8. I have to switch out the fuel jet for a slightly larger one. On a side note...now my ECM took a crap today! Wouldn't start and threw codes 41,42, and 51. 51 is ECM failure and I did the diag for 41 and 42 which both lead to faulty ECM. Basically my car wont start sometimes and sometimes it will stall. It finally threw a code today(its been happening to me since I got it on the road this year and it's been getting worse.) It never ends! Hopefully I can get one from the local slavage yard and load up my tune and be on my way.....

Tonight me and a buddy finally went and got my bottle filled! We drove about 10 miles out of town to a speed shop and then procceded back to work(I work at a dealership) where I installed the bottle. First I found out that I left a plug out of the nitrous line up in the engine bay so when I opened the bottle it started spraying out! So we went and got a plug from the local hardware store. Then I had to take off the purge solenoid because it was leaking(I actually had to do this 2 times because I didn't fix it the first time!). After that I we hopped in the car and waited for the bottle heater to get the pressure up but it only got to about 875-900psi. I figured that my automatic bottle heater pressure switch is set too low so thats as high as it would go. So after it got up to 900 psi I armed the system and had my buddy watch the A/F ratio with my LM1 wideband and I nailed the gas from second gear roll...........nothing....... LOL. So I messed with my window switch which turns out I didn't set up right. So I messed with the settings and took it down the road.....try #2......well it hit but didn't come on till 4500rpms(should have been 3000). I have my progressive controller set up for a 50HP shot so it wasn't huge but it works! I have some tweaking to do for the nitrous but atleast I know everything works now! I can't wait to get it all ironed out so I can put in the 150HP nozzles! Man I really need some new video! I'll try to get some ASAP! Guy

I think that's different for the 280ZX / S130 chassi because the tension rod is in front of the control arm(isn't the tension rod behind the control arm on an S30?). I thought I read that rubber bushing should be on the side that sees the most stress under braking, which for an S130 should be the front bushing/same side as the nut. Someone please correct me if I am wrong! I got all my stuff for making my tension rods. I am going to start to make them on thursday when I get my die for the rods from the snap on guy. The die is lifetime warrenty so I can burn it up and just keep getting new ones! LOL HEHEHHEHE! I will have one set for sale after I make mine if all goes well. Not sure on how much I will want for them but I will need a set of cores, so if anyone is interested don't throw away your old ones even if they are broke like mine was! I am going to have to cut a few inches off of the rod anyways so that broken part wont matter. Guy

NICE! I love it! What kind of power are you looking to get? Also what's been done to the engine, if anything? How much $$$ do you think you have into engine/tranny/turbo set up? I am seriously considering a 5.3 or 6.0L turbo set up. I really want a turbo V8....

It's not coming from your brake booster is it? That might hold a vaccum after turning the car off. Disconnect it and see if it goes away(plug the intake port that it's going to though so you dont have a leak). Guy

Man I have hit or been in the car for atleast a dozen deer hits! I don't even stop for them anymore to see if anything is damaged, I just watch the gauges to see if anything goes out of the normal range! Ahhhh country living at it's finest! Guy

Ok I have read this whole thread but I didn't find what I was looking for. Do the 280ZXT rear axles slide right into a 300ZXT 3.7 LSD diff? Is the spline count and length the same? If I missed this in the thread somewhere just tell me! Thanks! Guy

Well after owning a 280ZX for the past few years I just know that getting sweet parts like the S30 chassi has that just bolt in are few and far between. I pretty much just take it for granted that I will have to make everything that I want. LOL I like making stuff like this but sometimes it's nice to whip out the debit card and just order it! LOL Guy

Well I don't autocross and I haven't really driven the car hard yet in the twistys. Mine broke straight across where it necks down at the threads...nice clean break. Mine broke just driving down the road at about 45 mph coming to a normal stop. As for waiting for TTT stuff, its still going to be $200 for that set up. It's only going to me $60-70 to make a set. Don't get me wrong I'm sure the TTT stuff will be nice. I'm not going to wait and see if they make them only to find out that they aren't going to. Guy

Well I just ordered everything that I think I'm going to need to build a set of adjustable T/C rods for my car. Now I just need a 5/8 x 18 die to thread my stock rods(I'm going to talk to the tool guy tomorrow at work to see if I can get just that die...I don't want to spend $300 on a tap an die set that I really don't need.......plus if the die is lifetime warranty that would be great!). I did order enough to make 2 sets of these rods so if all goes well I will have a set for sale when I'm done with mine......price yet to be determined! LOL My car is still off the road...still waiting to receive a set of stock rods that I bought from another member(post office is taking forever to deliver these things!). I'm feeling withdraw symptoms from not driving my Z when its been nice all week! Guy

Not bad if you ask me. I really like the 350Z though. That headlight looks photoshoped to me. I can't see Nissan doing that...all of their headlights follow the hood/fender line up the car. I want to see some more pics! What year is the 370Z supposed to release? Guy

Wow that guy has some serious skill! That car looks top notch front to back, side to side, and inside to outside! Thanks for sharing! Guy

I had the same brake line fail on my car 2 years ago on the way home from work. Lucky for me I was on a back road when I noticed it and not in traffic in town! I used my ebrake and downshifted all the way home(30 miles away). I reordered one line from MSA. The old one was rubbing on the diff if I remember correctly? The new line doesn't touch anything now. Atleast yours happen while in the driveway! Guy

This past week I finally pulled my speedometer to send it into Autometer to have the odometer fixed because it would not hold the milage after turning the key off.(turn the key of and the odometer rolls back 2-5 miles every time). So I sent it out on Monday and they called me yesterday to tell me that they are going to replace it for free! My guage is about 4 years old, not even close to being under warrenty but they said since I obviously haven't been using it for very long (odometer said 1556 miles) that they would take care of it. They also said that I should see my new speedometer by Monday! One week turn around and it only cost me $6 to send it to them! I wish every company took care of their customers like this! I already have 8 of their gauges and I intend on keep buying them for any future projects! Guy

That can't be even sort of safe or easy on the bearings! I can't see the wheel studs holding either. The car on the outside looked pretty decent but the pics it showed of the kit being attached looked shady at best. The interior is hideous! Overall I'm not really impressed by the work. Guy

NICE! What exactly is it? Looks mean as hell! Guy

How do you know when your getting it back? I wouldn't mind knowing that. I am probably going to pay off a credit card or use it for paying some sort of bill. Don't really need anything for my ZX that I can think of. Guy

I've tried to take pics of it and my new A-pillar gauges but my camera sucks and doesn't do close up shots very well. It looks like Warren's but mine is white faced. Guy

Do you still need a 93 ECM? I have one I think. It's been burned for a LT4 HOTCAM and bigger injectors(36lbs). What year is your ECM? I think the 96-97 are different than the 94-95 ECM. Let me know maybe I'll be interested in a trade? Guy

I think the Phantom series programmable fuel guage is fairly new. I was stoked when I saw it! It's $100 vs the $35 for the regular gauge but worth it if you like your gauge to be accurate. Nice job on your dash Warren! I like how everything still works! Guy

Well I just put in a new fuel level gauge in my car tonight. I had the Phantom series Autometer gauge in there that read from 0-90 ohms. Well Autometer came out with a fully programmable Phantom series gauge so I bought that to replace my old one. The 0-90 was ok but not great. It would not read all the way to F when full and E was really 1/8 tank. Tonight after I programmed mine new gauge as per the instructions, I got out my ohm meter and took measurements of the MAIN fuel leve sender right off of the sender..... EMPTY ......11 ohms FULL..........83ohms I tested the gauge while the sender was out of the tank and it seems a lot more accurate than my last gauge. I am stoked to have a fuel gauge thats accurate! Now I just have to send in my speedo to autometer so they can fix it(doesn't hold the milage after turning the key off...usually rolls back 2-5 miles each time the key is turned off...yeah I know great but I like being able to calculate milage!). Guy

That should look sweet when done! I like it a lot more than your last design. Guy