80LS1T

Yes each light needs to be grounded. Unless you have all the ground wires for the lights hooked up to each other, then you would only need one ground(I wouldn't do it this way). I just wired my car with a painless kit too. The painless kit only provides power for the circuits, you must provide a ground for each circuit. Guy

You mean I need a clutch switch, so it can't start with out the clutch being pushed in? I forgot I need to install that! Thanks for the reminder! I have my fuel filter and regulator mounted to the firewall. Hmmm that sucks. I'll have to see what I can do about that. I have a catch can so thats done. Guy

399.99! LOL I hope you hit your mark though! Guy

He has a 280ZX...no mustache bar:wink:. Guy

1980 280ZX.... Here's the basic specs on my car... *1993 Camaro LT1 Engine (alluminum water pump housing with CSR electric water pump, stock alluminum heads and intake) *1993 T56 6 speed transmission(stock flywheel) *R200 with CV's (3.54:1) *Griffin 26"x19" Alluminum Radiator *All stock emssions stuff removed(stuff that came with the L28 engine) *All emissons stuff removed from LT1 *Battery relocated to spare tire area *All A/C components removed(including evaporator core) *Stock seats replaced with Corbeau CR1's and Corbeau brackets *Stock gauges replaced with Autometer gauges *About 35-40lbs of sound deadening on floor, sides and doors of car(peel n' seal) *Rear sway bar removed *Tokico Springs and Struts(lowerd 1.5") *Sport Max 962's 18x7.5" front with 225/40 tires and 18x9.5" rear with 265/25 tires *stock braking system *Autopower 4 point rollbar *T-Tops in hatch of car *Half tank of gas Ok here's the without me in the car.... LF....715 RF....787 LR....775 RR....705 ------------------------ 1490 1492 Front....1502....50.4% Rear.....1480....49.6% Total....2982 Guy

cygnusx1, that's the tool I was referring to. If that center shaft would thread on to his steering shaft I'm sure he could get it to work. He could just get a flat piece of metal, drill a hold big enough for the steering shaft and wide enough to touch both side bars, and then just use it like it's supposed to be used by screwing down the nut above the "u-bend" part. Autozone probably has this tool for GM's to change out turn signal switches. You can rent/borrow the tool for next to nothing. I would just see if it's the same thread size and go from there. Guy

I have mine there too. I've never really thought about what would happen in a half shaft would break? The exhaust way back there isn't hot enough to start a fire but if you were making sparks I could see it... I guess I'll have to take a look at that tomorrow. A nice thick shield might not be a bad idea...

Come on guys I need some help... I know some of you run nitrous at the track. Guy:wc:

Well I just finished rewiring the whole car! It took me about 2 months to do it but it's done. I have been really working on it a lot for the last 3 weeks. I used a painless harness and I must say it was very straight forward and pretty "painless" if you ask me. I don't know why people say these kits are hard to install? I am now working on installing the nitrous kit and setting up the subs and amp. I don't know if I'm going to get to slotting the sub-frame before I get it back on the road. I may wait to do that until I can get it to work on my hoist. I think it will be much easier that way. I would post some pics but its just wiring and not much to see! Once the nitrous kit is installed I'll post pics of that! Mmmmmmm JUICE! LOL Guy

I would have busted him right there! LOL I don't put up with BS, especially when it comes to cars! Must have been hard not to say "oh your Darius? How's the new body, wheels, and supercharger treating you...?" He would have been dumbfounded! LOL Guy

I am starting to install my nitrous kit in my car but before I start I need to know if there are specific NHRA rules about how the kit is installed to run at the strip with it. Like... *Can I run the nitrous feed line in the car? *Can it be mounted in the cabin without any extra shielding between the bottle and driver? (I have a blow down kit for the bottle). Anything else that you guys can think of so that it's as painless as possible when I get inspected would be greatly appreciated! Guy

Mmmmmmmm open headers! Yummmmmmmy! LOL Loved the vid, sounded nasty! Guy

Well I've never had that apart on my 280ZX but I think late model GM steering columns are similar. Was there some kind of "C-clip" holding the spring down? On GM's there is a special tool that threads onto the steering shaft with a bracket that pushes the spring down while you screw it down onto the shaft. I have seen guys put these back on with out the tool but you need some really strong fingers and a helper to put the clip in while your pushing down. It's not a one man job by any means. If you can find a tool for this you might need some help from some buddies. Guy

A little late in the game but.... I'm in the same boat as you, been with the same girl since I was 17(now 25). We have been through some ups and downs over the last 8+ years that's for sure. The car was an issue for a while when I started the swap back in 2002. I would spend all weekend out in the garage and she would sit on the steps in the garage reading. I though she didn't mind but she did. She would have rather gone out to dinner or watched a movie with me. Just spending time in the garage with me didn't count as spending time with me because I was so preoccupied with the car that we didn't really talk much. If your going to have her out in the garage with you that's great but talk to her and not about the cars! My girlfriend knows that I would never sell my Z just to make some money because it means too much to me for many reasons. If I had to sell it to pay for hospital bills for her I would do it in a heart beat. She means more to me than any car ever will. That's how you have to think about her...is she worth more to you than a car? If not then let her go, its not fair to her. GUy

Well after the 2nd or 3rd tranny that you grenade you'll probably wish you spent time on an adapter for a decent tranny.(I'm not being argumentative, just trying to help...I'm a Nissan tech and seeing these trannys not even hold up to the 350Z's power would make me wonder how its ever going to hold the TQ of the VK56) They are a very cheap tranny, we don't have to send them back to Nissan so we just throw them away or give them away if someone wants them. When I was at training last summer one of the instructors was telling me how even the best techs have a hard time rebuilding these trannys because most of the parts can be flip flopped and fit but wont actually work if it's installed backwards. He also said in his opinion its way over engineered with too many parts which also makes it a PITA to rebuild. We also don't rebuild them because the parts from the old tranny don't work in the new "counter measure" transmission so they just have us replace the whole thing. I would still love to see this car in action! And would love to see how the tranny handles the abuse! Who knows you may never have a problem!... Guy:biggrin:

Your going to use the 350Z 6 speed? If so why? It's a POS if you ask me. Even the updated ones are kind of shaddy. They aren't a bullet proof tranny thats for sure. Wouldn't you be better off building an adapter for say a T56? Guy

Glad I could help! LOL I had the same issue when I finish my motor swap. It would start sometimes just fine but other times it wouldn't at all. Then one day after getting stuck at a gas station I found that my "lokar" throttle cable was hot to the touch after trying to start it, well that was because I didn't have any grounds going from the motor to the chassi and that cable was the only thing being used for a ground. After I installed 2 big ground straps on the engine it started flawlessly every time since! Guy

No, you'll be fine with either tire you choose. Guy

Is it one click or multiple clicks? What are you using for grounds(sorry have to ask, the motor mounts are not good enough...). Did the car start before with the old L28 in it? What terminal on the starter solenoid do you have the yellow wire? It should be on the "S" terminal. Did this starter come with the motor? Is it the right kind for the amount of teeth you have on your flywheel? Does it have to be shimmed? Guy

Yeah mine's not very accurate. It pretty much reads from full to 1/4 tank...1/4 tank of fuel = E on gauge....Full tank of fuel = F on gauge. I'm fine with that because I'l never run out of gas but that might bother some people. Guy

Terry, that's what I say too about German engineered cars! LOL My mom has a Jetta and I keep telling her to get rid of it before it goes out of warrenty! I personally hate German cars. I think they are over engineered and just complicate things. I would only own one if it was under warrenty! They are great cars when the check engine light isn't on though but how often is that....LOL Guy

Well I am not using anything from that circuit board. I am actually not using anything from the original harness. I am currently rewiring my whole car with a painless harness, so I am just using the last few inches from each connector to connect to the painless harness. Before I started rewiring my car I ran the original 12V+ sources to the gauges by using two connectors that I bought at Fleet Farm in the trailer wiring section. I then used new wires to go from each gauge to the signal wire for each sensor. For the lighting I also used the original "illumination" wire that went to the original cluster. Since I have the wiring diagram(for a 79') right in front of me I'll point you in the right direcetion... *BR(brown) wire is your "Illumination 12V+ feed" *GL(green/blue) wire is your "left turn signal indicator 12V+ feed" *GR(green/red) wire is your "right turn signal indicator 12V+ feed" *Y (yellow) wire is your "main fuel gauge sending unit signal wire" *G(green) wire is your "12V+ main fuel gauge feed" *B(black) wire is your ground for both turn signal indicators, fuel gauge, illumination, water temp gauge, tachometer, etc... *YB(yellow/black) wire is your "signal wire for your water temp gauge" *LgW(Light Green/White) is your "tach signal wire" There are a few more possible wires you might need depending on what your going to use in your cluster but these are the main ones. This is what my cluster looks like from behind... And from the front... Here's a little more info from my webpage... http://www.datsun-280zx-lt1.com/Gauges.html Guy

This is recent pic from last summer... I really don't think it looks bad at all and it's super low maintance! Guy

You fuel pressure regulator should be after the fuel rail gets it's fuel. It should go.... fuel tank, fuel pump, hard lines from tank, fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator, return line from fuel pressure regulator to tank. If your feeding fuel pressure from after the regulator your probably not feeding enough fuel to the rails. Guy

After watching American Idol here and there over the past few years I would never ever hesitate to tell someone that they suck at singing....your wife deffinetly has a great voice if you ask me. I think she should try some other stuff and see what kind of songs she should be doing. She deffinetly has a voice for those types of songs you posted though. I could see her doing country but I don't know about rock, she's got a very soothing voice that would be great for country or christan stuff. I would atleast explore this avenue! Guy