TrumpetRhapsody

Videos and pics to come gentlemen Something interesting.... before I dropped this motor in, I had to PB blast some rust out of cylinder 2 before I could get a full rotation out of the crank. After some blasting and coaxing I got it to rotate smoothly. When I did a compression check after getting the motor in, all cylinders (dry and cold) were 120-130psi, except #2 which was 0. After adding some oil, and cranking it longer, I got it up to 90, and eventually 100psi. Long story short I've been running this motor for maybe two weeks now, and decided yesterday to do another compression check. Dry and cold, all cylinders were within 1-2psi of 100psi. Interesting.

Hmm, that seems like a possiblity. Wouldn't that affect the running condition of the car itself though? Is there any way to test for this condition? Maybe I need... stronger diodes?

Nope, tried different diodes and tried rotating combo's of which coils I was combining. It made no difference, as soon as I add a second coil the tach dies.

Alright, progress. With the tach only connected to one coil (with or without resistor, with or without diode) it gets the 1/3 signal. As soon as I add a second coil, the tach goes dead. This is all without the Zener diode, adding it makes no difference. Is there a way to add a capacitor to triple the signal, and just use one coil? Not sure if that would work or not, I'm no EE

So you did get it working with this circuit, minus the 1N4746? Were you running the resistor inline to the tach? What year tach were you using? I'll try all that and see if it makes a difference, thanks.

True, but they weren't reading what values the megamanual said they would.

Actually, C9 and C10 were showing no continuity, to be technical... but who's counting

Well my wiring harness showed the blue wire I tapped into going to the negative side of the coil, so I don't think that's the problem.

I'm attempting to use this circuit to drive my stock 260z tachometer: I'm 80% sure I've hooked everything up right, but the tach does nothing. I've tried it with and without the stock resistor inline, with no effect. My next course of action is to pull the tach and make sure it's getting the signal, and try substituting it with a spare from a 280z. Has anyone used this circuit successfully?

A few degrees of timing? Are you saying you can run more timing with the non-projected plugs?

Check out the megamanual(.com) for how to do it on the ecu, or search around hybrid for how to combine the coil signals and send that back. I've seen it done both ways.

The Holset Z lives! I'm getting a nice solid 7psi, good boost response, and everything feels very solid. I'm having to richen up my map quite a bit, as expected, but so far nothing over 50% dutycycle, and I'm getting good AFR numbers. Pics and vids to come

My couplers came in yesterday, but I had to go pick them up from the post office this morning. I had a bit of time left over before I had to be in for work, so i went ahead and installed them. The angles aren't perfectly ideal on all of them, but they should work for now. A bit of modification and finagling and I might get a better result, but that'll be for later. After work I'll fab up a bracket for the stock wastegate actuator, and start tuning!

BUMP. I gave up and went back to my noisy TPSdot. I'd like to start playing with EAE again.

So the holset is officially in. I had it running for awhile, got all the shmootz burned off, everything up to temp. I'm waiting on some couplers to get the intercooler attached, and I still need to fab a bracket to get the wastegate actuator to work. Also, the hood won't close due to coupler interference, so I need to pull the IC and trim the core support to center it more. After all that it'll be BOOOOST. I can definitely say that this process was a huge PITA. It's nice to have the holset on, but I wish I had just gotten another T3 to hold me over. But, what's done is done!

Well, I was talked into going ahead with the Holset swap instead of tracking down another stock T3, and I've bought some nice goodies get things going... but more on that later. I don't know why, but my early HY-35 wasn't a bolt on affair like it should have been. Aside from drilling out the bottom two flange holes (knew about that), I also have had to clearance my manifold and make a spacer. Once I account for the spacer and a gasket on each side, I should have about 2mm of clearance between the housing and manifold. I had a friend cut me a flange to mate to the hotside, and I'll need to pick up some 3" piping to custom make a d/p to interface with my current exhaust setup. Hopefully I'll be able to do most of that tomorrow. Aside from that, once the rest of my goodies get in i'll need to mock up the intercooler piping, fabricate a bracket for the wastegate actuator, and figure out a way to attach my BOV to the charge pipe (pics of that issue later).

I've definitely kept a spreadsheet of all my plans and purchases. It's disgusting to look at the numbers add up, lol.

I have a NA block and turbo motor do pretty much the same thing. 30-40psi at cruise, but 4-8psi at idle (on a autometer gauge). The stock gauge would drop to "zero". I drove the NA motor for almost a year with no signs of issues. As far as it being normal, no clue *shrug*.

Jeffer provided me with a cheap source for v-band clamps and flanges here: http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?cPath=10&products_id=326&osCsid=11cc2884380436dc4101e5044ca60900 He also mentioned that the 4" had a poor fit on the Holset, and that a 3.5" would be more appropriate. He said the size reflects the ID, not the OD.

Anything ever come of this GrayZ? I'm starting to gather materials for my holset addition, and a DP is high up on the list

I was wondering the same thing, you'd think the oil filter would've caught something like that *shrug*.

PM sent, thanks Daeron. Found the culprit that killed my turbo Seems somehow some rtv found its way to the oil feed, and blocked it. No oil to the turbo = death. I can thank the PO for this one I'm sure, dunno how rtv would get to be floating around in the oil.

Haven't taken mine apart yet, but at the very least the impellor and bearings, possibly the entire center section.

Well after 5 short days of boosting, my turbo commit suicide. Had the car at Firestone for an alignment, and when they did the test run the tech said it sounded like the turbo was making "funny noises", and that it wasn't doing it till about halfway through. I limped the car home with it making horrendously scary noises, and come to find out the bearing is toast. Lots of side to side wobble, and the fins are bent. So, now I'm in the market for a cheap stock T3 to hold me over till the Holset swap.