TrumpetRhapsody

I don't know what it is, but the police around here make me nervous. It's not that I'm constantly breaking the law (speeding) and worried about getting caught... I'll be doing the speed limit and see a cop hiding on a side road and I'll tense up like I'm about to be pulled over. Conditioned response? What really bugs me is when you're not doing anything wrong, and they follow you for no apparent reason. Made a walmart trip last night around 10:30PM, one was hiding in my subdivision and followed me all the way to the highway onramp. I'm all about mutual respect, but it seems a little one sided sometimes. I think all the crap cops have to deal with regularly make them weary of the general public.

Well the machining is done, the tranny is together, and I'm picking up my driveshaft later today. After reading some stuff on this thread and not thinking about the difference between the long (750mm) and short (700mm) driveshafts, I had them shorten my long one 1.5" (they didn't know how much 50mm was, lol). I remember someone here saying they shortened theirs 3/4", and someone else 50mm, so I figured 1.5" would be fine (not reading that they STARTED with a short one for the 3/4", and a long one for 50mm). Oops. So, my driveshaft will be just short of 712mm. I sure hope that will fit. Worse comes to worse I guess I can cut down the yoke a little, but I REALLY don't want to do that after them balancing the thing.

Well, it's together. For better or worse, my Frankenstein 240zsx transmission is together... Took my driveshaft to the shop today to be shortened 1.5", and the machining at the physics dept. was flawless, a perfect fit. The drill-pressed shift rod hole was horrible. Somehow it wasn't straight, or big enough. Between milling down bosses and fixing the shift hole, we probably put in 3 hours of dremel work and about 6 test-fits. But it's together, spins freely, and shouldn't leak (hopefully). Tomorrow I should get my driveshaft back, and hopefully have time to stab it and weld up the tranny mount.

Nice Philmont pics! I had to double take on that "you made it" pic, looked just like ours!

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Thanks to a friend of mine with a drill press, I got my shift rod hole drilled out. When I got it home I measured, and it's just BARELY over 16mm (like it's supposed to be). I just hope it's in the right spot, and the rod lines up. While I was over there, I noticed that his dad also has a hydraulic press. That means when I do my rear suspension bushings I don't have to take off work to go to find a 4x4 shop and pay to have the spindle pins removed. Excellent! Nobody around here has either the KA or L countershaft bearing, so I may just wait till Monday and see if I can get the bellhousing machined to fit the stock KA bearing while I'm out to get the driveshaft shortened. That's a bit of a setback. I can't mock up and modify the crossmember till I can get the box back together. Looks like that won't be till Monday or Tuesday now.

I'm in the middle of this swap, and thought I'd bring up another issue a member mentioned to me. People were talking on here about "swapping" the bearing from the L to the KA gearset. Apparently, when you pull a bearing off with a puller, it pulls on the outer race and destroys it. So, a new bearing is needed (nobody in my town had it in stock). Just an FYI

I got the tranny dropped, and both transmissions taken apart. Hopefully by the end of tomorrow I'll have the bearings swapped, shift rod hole drilled, tranny mounted, and be working on the tranny mount. Tomorrow I'll rent a bearing puller, and just swap to the L bearing for now. Once I swap for the turbo motor I'll go ahead and mill the housing for the sx bearing. Pics of the old tranny insides, one of the work area, the new tranny's magnetic drain plug, then pics of the new tranny's insides...

How did i know a title like that from you would = a car on fire, lol

Why yes, yes we do! Man I want to hear those, going to be amazing!

So there is no adjusting of the breakaway torque with this style, or is it not even necessary? I was wondering how the worm gears come into play, brilliant design.

Yeah I've checked out all the various gear ratios and stuff. I've got the 3.36 diff, which is nice for cruising. My trans should be the "A" style '76 5spd. Problem is that it's dying (bad syncros I think), and 5th pops out (unusable). Even if 5th did work, it's the highest gearing of all the styles, so NOT good for cruising. I've already bought the 240sx tranny, just gotta do the swap work. Should be a little stronger for the turbo stuff too, so win-win.

Well he's heard of the block and head designations, so that's at least a start. I'll admit that likely did take some research. But yes, if you do a little bit of digging you'll find that reliable 350hp is not too far out of reach. Searchy searchy.

Sorry, but I missed the fuel rail discussion. Are we trying to make a cheaper product than the pallnet fuel rails, or is the spacing different or something? I'd definitely be down for a cheaper fuel rail if that's the goal. Sign me up.

There are plenty of posts WITH dynographs, posts talking about spool times, etc. Even lenthy discussions of split housing turbines. I could search and find them for you, or you could find them yourself like I had to. What's the hurry? Look around, you'll learn more than you thought you needed to know

Sorry, should've been more clear. I think we were both talking about capping off the vacuum hose to the manifold if he puts a breather on the valve cover. Not capping off the valve cover.

As far as clean, I dunno. Most just buy the right size plug, works fine. Yup, most auto parts store should carry one. I've stared right at one while checking out at O'reileys.

It's just a breather, not specific to turbos. You can do it if you want but... The idea behind the hose is to suck blow-by from your valve cover and keep your oil cleaner. Other people say that it's beneficial to have the crankcase in a vacuum... something about rings... you can read up on it if your interested. Short version = pull your hose and put the breather on if you like the look better.

That would be kinda cool, +1!

I love my SD600, they're surprising little point-n-shoots.

That's different, thats like building a Fobra or something. You're making your american car look like the JDM version. That's completely different than putting a GTR badge on a Ford F-150.

There is a knob for it near your left knee. There's a fuse for it too, refer to a FSM or fuse box cover.

Thanks! Yeah I know a guy with a welder and drill press, so I should be set. The milling we might do by hand, we'll see. Forgot to mention: the brake booster was filled with old nasty brake fluid from the old leaky master cylinder, so I guess that explains the failure.

It's about the same throughout, don't bother

I gotta tell you, that's a bit weird, haha! I like the driving shots though, heh. I hope that's not our official dance...