letitsnow

Yeah, stock 280z pistons have the same dish, with those and a p90 you'll have ~7.4:1 with a 1mm head gasket. That's the same as the stock L28ET, no need to lower it with a thicker gasket.

The 280z and 280zxt pistons are largely the same(look in the sticky ^^^ for exact details)so the cylinder head will dictate your compression. Using a p90 head on any l28 with dished pistons will result in ~7.4:1(depending on head gasket). Seeing this, I'd go with a 1mm gasket because there's no need for any less compression.

Most of the pictures in that thread don't work anymore, that tends to happen after 5+ years. Some were probably lost in the switch to IPB.

I think the 240sx TB has an idle screw, a quick check and it should be pretty apparent. Step one should be to make sure that the timing light and the MS agree, do this by moving the dizzy and/or adjusting the trigger offset. Once you get this right, set the idle timing to around 18 degrees and you should be good. Now adjust the idle screw.

The L28ET TB does have an idle adjustment screw, at least mine does. Also, TPS is NOT a requirement at all for MS, it is not needed for anything. You can use it for accel enrichment if you want, but MAPdot works just fine. It's also nice to have when looking at a datalog, but it isn't needed. If your timing light agrees with what the computer thinks the timing is, don't touch the dizzy again. Adjust only the spark maps in the megasquirt.

Kameari makes some very high quality parts for the L series. I have the 1mm on my engine, no problems yet.

I already put it back together, I just want to drive the car for a bit while I save up some money. Seems to drive alright, it can spin the tires now.

Test fitted the tranny with the 225mm collar and it looked fine, plenty of movement before contacting the PP fingers. Now I really have no idea why the weights got stuck, but they're not going back on. When this clutch dies I think I'll try a southbend as others have had good luck with them.

I used the 4 speed shifter from my '77 4 speed transmission in my 280zx(not sure of the year) N/A transmission, it was a direct swap.

If it was local to me and free of any MAJOR dents and rust free, I'd snap that up in a heartbeat. I've got at least $100 in refurbing my tank along with probably 30 hours of labor, so for another $50 I'd take that any day. I did go a little beyond the normal refurb, but that was the only way I felt sure that I wasn't wasting my time or money.

Ok, the clutch pedal felt funny, like something was binding up as you pressed it, occasionally you could hear a POP as you let it out and everything felt normal for a while. Driving the clutch held fine under boost from a roll, but it slipped bad on a hard launch, only did that twice(separate occasions, after trying other things to fix it) before I pulled it out. It could never muster enough grip to chirp the tires from a dead stop. It's a little hard to see, but the weights that are stuck are holding 3-4 of the fingers fully depressed. There are a few hot spots on the other side on both the FW and the PP. There is a slight amount of unusual wear on the disc. When I pulled the PP I had to pop the weights free using a screwdriver. It looked good enough that I put it back together. I removed the weights thinking I'd try my luck like that, but just before I went to put the tranny in I compared the TOB collar with the one from my 225mm n/a 280z clutch, they were they same. It appears that the previous owner(the one who installed the clutch) used a 225mm TOB collar, not a 240mm collar. According to my research, the 225mm piece is taller than the 240mm piece(1.52 compared to 1.36, roughly). Could this have led to the diaphragm of the PP being over extended allowing the weights to get stuck underneath? If it could, then I'll put the weights back on because it sounds like these clutches need all the help they can get, especially because an IC will be added soon and the boost turned up. When installing this motor/tranny I noticed that I had to compress the slave much farther than I did with the 225mm setup that my old drivetrain had. Autozone had to order the bearing/collar and it won't be in for a few days, I bought one for a '77 2+2. I suppose tomorrow I can put the tranny back on with the 225mm collar and see if it was preloading the clutch. The motor is a pretty stock L28ET with a turbo back exhaust(2.5"->3") and megasquirt with 7psi of boost, so it should be well within the capabilities of this clutch. The clutch is(was?) a 240mm with a fidanza aluminum flywheel.

Buy a welder and go to town, if nothing else, you'll learn a hell of a lot about welding and metalworking. If you F it up royally, get another shell like you're planning, you'll still learn how to weld though. Knowing how to weld is a really really useful thing, and it can be a decent source of beer money.

Why not setup decel fuel cut on the MS, it's what all the modern efi systems do. There won't be any popping because the injectors won't spray ANY fuel.

If the gasket is really boned, the nissan dealer still has them. I asked for one for an '84 300zx turbo, they had to order it, but they still got it and it was pretty cheap.

I know you're probably looking for a kit someone bought and decided not to use, but, have you looked at summit racing, they beat MSA by a pretty big margin. MSA-$190 for energy suspension Summit-$170 for energy suspension or Summit-$140 for prothane Summit also has the 280z energy kit for $150, don't know why the 240z kit is more.

Yeah, I hope it works out well for you. The por stuff is WAY easier to do than the eastwood kit I used last time and it was definitely worth the $25 more.

Just put gas in the tank for the first time.......NO leaks!!! It seems to supply all the fuel I need and the car feels strong.

I turned a set from some 6061 stock. Pretty quick job and the shifter feels great now!

Yup, if you plan to race the car, they may give you grief about the nuts being closed and/or they may make you remove one to check for proper thread engagement.

Are you actually losing intake pressure or just power?

I pieced together my first turbo setup from here, then I bought a complete L28ET+5 speed for a song on a local forum. I also bought another L28ET in pieces locally.

My 3" exhaust sits up higher than or at least about equal with my frame rails, it shouldn't scrape any worse than the stock system. I made it myself out of 2 180° 3" mandrel bends and about 8' of pipe, only took a few hours to do total.

I used a flanging tool that I borrowed from a friend, it was basically a set of modified vise grips. The patch doesn't have to be perfectly flat because the tank is mounted on rubber isolators, not a whole lot of precision is needed. This is how I did mine. Just make sure that the gaps you're soldering are very tight, it makes it much easier. I used a normal pipe flux for the steel, but I had to use a special SS flux on the lines. I mostly used 60/40 rosin core solder for the steel, I used a solid core for the lines because the rosin core didn't agree with the SS too much. I'm not sure if what I used was the best stuff, but it seemed to work fairly well, although some parts were a bit more difficult to tin than others. I'm pretty sure that all the lines and vents are spot welded and then brazed or soldered on.

I flanged the holes so that my patches would sit nicely before I soldered them, it's difficult to bridge gaps with solder too. I soldered them because it's pretty difficult to get a completely leak free weld I also couldn't weld the SS lines to the tank. It's relatively easy to get a leak free seal with solder. After doing it once, I would recommend tack welding the patches in before laying the solder down, keeping them in place and tight to the tank was a bit of a pain. For the patches, I made new ones out of some scrap sheet metal, I think it used to be a volkswagen door. The marine clean should get rid of any fuel varnish, but I don't know about any sealer residue.

I cut 2 holes in my tank on the top, sandblasted the inside, and cut the old lines out. I replaced the lines with 3/8" 304 stainless hard lines and soldered them back in, I also flanged the holes I cut and soldered patches in. Right now I'm coating the inside with the por15 kit, I'm actually doing the etching step right this minute. Going this way was a MAJOR PITA, soldering SS to mild steel is a pain because of the different specific heats, SS absorbs and rejects heat much slower than mild, meaning that getting them both the right temp is difficult, especially when using a torch like I was. Also, getting the patches to sit right and not leak was a bit of a pain, but not as bad as the lines. I cut the holes on the top because if they did start to leak there would be a lesser chance of spilling a large amount of fuel right near the exhaust. The tank sealing process is quite time consuming and boring as well. BUT, all of what I did was pretty cheap, I bought the por15 kit for ~$75, the SS lines for ~$20, and the soldering supplies that I used probably totaled ~$30, but I had a lot of those already. I've got a TON of time in this thing so far, probably 30hrs at least. Most old sealers can be removed by putting a gallon of M.E.K. in and letting it soak for a few days on different sides. You can get M.E.K. at lowes I think. The por15 directions said 'stripper' and some other directions say MEK.