jasper

^^^^^^^^:rolleyesg:rolleyesg:rolleyesg:rolleyesg:rolleyesg

First and foremost....... It's not the where, it's the who. I have worked for both dealers, and independants. The level of ability varies widely. If you were to visit the Toyota dealer where I work, I may work on your car,(30 + yrs experience), or the new lube tech guy may get it(good luck). There is a MAJOR BENEFIT, especially with today's complex cars, of being FAMILIAR WITH THE PRODUCT. Much diagnostic time is lost/wasted/parts changed, because of this fact, at independant shops. This "EXPERIENCE" can actually save you money, vs an independant. Do I NEED to mention TSB's,The latest hardware/software, updated parts, factory information and support. Many times, without a TSB, the best tech in the world, won't be able to fix your car, if he doesn't know(and have access to) the latest software calibration for your car because it doesn't run properly all the time. Many times, I am personaly amazed at the lenghts the management goes to, in doing the RIGHT THING for the customer (lots of freebies). You should also know; If the dealer gets a poor CSI score(customer satisfaction index) directly related to customer mailer responses, ALL the management/service writers,etc, will loose their bonuses if the scores are poor. SO DOES THE DEALER PRINCIPLE. Many dealers don't deserve the poor publicity from years past. And yeah it sounds like you paid a little bit more than I would expect...but is your car prone to rusted/siezed/breaking hardware/ bolts, etc that the dealer knows will likely be a problem on older/high mileage cars like yours.??????? I wouldn't be happy paying that bill.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cqh54rSzheg

Hey guys. I'm playing with the neighbors 2002 Mazda tribute. 3.0 liter DOHC 4V v6 .Codes p0354,355,356. "COIL ISUUES" I pulled the front bank cover and disconnected all the coils..No change!!!! There is no way 3 coils ♥♥♥♥ at the same time. I'm scanning the internet for help. Ignition switch was mentioned, among TSB"S for plugs,coils and PCMs Any help would be great , it's in the 20's out side............Thanks......Tommy

A lot of burnouts??? ^^^^^^^

http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/engine5.htm

Play the lottery.........

:hs:http://www.familycar.com/Engine.htm

http://news.discovery.com/human/scotch-whiskey-antarctica-ice.html

http://toolmonger.com/2007/11/14/un-oops-that-cross-threaded-spark-plug-hole/#more-7981 http://www.google.com/products?q=back-tap&ie=UTF-8&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&sa=N&tab=wf

I'm not sure all your facts are correct. Who told you it cost 20k to write a check for $4,500.00? The dealer probably made more net per car, given the out of pocket was less, and easier to swallow than the normal deal......the BUYER WAS MOTIVATED!, new cars were in short supply (toyota). Not to mention all the back door, volume rebates to the dealer you don't hear about. Ever hear the term "CASH IN THE TRUNK" The paper work cost was not a major factor. The salesmen stayed late to reap the benefits of the increased sales volume. I didn't hear ONE complaint when they got their paychecks. At some point there was a bottle neck in dealer payments......I never heard a negative word at my dealer. We sold OVER 900 cars in 1 month. I'm told this is a nation wide record. I'm not seeing the BIG JOKE?????

Slides right out !!

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=131353&highlight=tools+bang+buck

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=131353&highlight=tools+bang+buck

:fmad:We had 1 very nice 850i as a clunker. Broke my heart when they destroyed that v12. The body was straight and clean, nice red/burgundy paint. They bought a toyota with the blood money.

You NEED BOTH. I made the same mistake.

:rolleyesgIf I were you....... I would buy a tube flaring kit. They are cheap !!! Buy 5/6 foot sections of brake line at the auto parts store..(METRIC)....CHEAP. Learn how to use the tool....Easy. I would bet over 50% of the guys on here either own, and or know how to use one. This is a skill you will need if you own older cars. PRACTISE>>>>tubing is cheap. As for the shape/routing .Check out some the pics on here of the engine bay, with the engine removed. Routing is very easy to see and not very critical. Don't be afraid, it's very easy,....and cheap. http://compare.ebay.com/like/330391330260?ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes

Back in the late 80's , I was an employee of VW corporate. I was also involved in Lemon Law/buybacks/resolutions. WE ALWAYS tried to fix the car and make the customer happy/whole. SOMETIMES the customer was the "cause" of the complaint. I'm confused as to why you would ask for help, but provide no information. There are some very sharp people on here, with lots of expereince. Good luck with your lawsuit.

http://69.89.25.185/~trexsoft/t-rexsoftware.com/buzzandjackie/collection.htm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zyklon_B

Put it all back together. Charge your battery for a few hours. Does the starter crank the engine over??? Start from there. Need more facts, and pertinent info. EXAMPLE: WHAT CAR ARE YOU WORKING ON???

Round is ok. http://www.toolbarn.com/hand/pliers-wrenches/wrenches/pipe-wrenches.html

A pipe wrench works well. It will definately leave a mark, but usualy not bad.(non functional part) Use a pipe for additional leverage. Brake fluid is an excellent rust buster. Multiple shots with a hammer, on the housing/thread interface will help loosen things if they're stubborn.