tooquick260

Well I do need one,,, tuner is having issue locating. Any one out there with a 89,88 ecu turbo?

Great to see another 260z on the road. That like the color to. Mine was originally green prev ower painted it red in 1981 Whats your plans for bumpers?

Looks good.

Did you figure anything out?

Still waiting on the ecu from the tuner..... From talking to more people about the ground wire issue, was told that there has to be something else. So a friend of my dads came over and looked at what we have. He narrowed it down from the 3 injectors not working to 1 injector with a problem. This connector had power to both sides, Where the other 5 only had power 2 one wire. Cut the heat shrink open and................... When my dad soldered the new injector connectors onto the old harness he left a very sharp point on the soldered wires. He heat shrinked one of the 2 wires but did not heat shrink other, then heat shrinked the 2 wires together from harness to the injector. The sharp point punctured through and contacted the other wire. This is what damaged ecu driver from the high voltage of 2 wires contacting them selves. In process of cutting all the heat shrink off the newly connected wires to make sure it does not happen again. We did plug the stock 86 ecu in and started up on all 6 cylinders. Ran rich (500cc injectors) and did not work well with the Z32 maf....

Hey, i have the same pump. Did you get that at the speed shop on OBT? American Motor SPorts? Where are you pulling power from for the Fuel pressure relay to feed the pump? I ended up going to ignition on hot and circumventing the fpr.

Welcome and good luck. Love the sound of triples on a L series 6 cylinder!!

Great,,,, if you want to try my remanufactured afm let me know. Hope all works out well. Maybe see you next week at the UTI car show.

Mine did something similar... Would not pull 4000rpm on anything but stock boost. I figured mine was low voltage on the fuel pump! was fine on 5.5 lbs boost I could push to 6000rpm but anything different would cut out reaching 4000rpm. Actually pop, fart miss cut out.

Dang....... Sorry to see.

Will be interested in the responses. Did you follow FSM diagnostics? Will it idle? If trying to rev from idle does it bog/spit? How did it run on the 370cc injectors? If it did not run good, then you have either wiring/connections, ecu, injector problems. I am in the middle of this same install. My car would idle but not read the maf I was using. Once i figured that out an got the ecu to read the maf, car ran great! Until a ground wire for the ecu came loose and I lost the driver in the ecu for injectors 1,2,3. Things I checked to diagnose my problems. Ecu signal- check ohms on pin 5 to ingitor, making sure you have continuity Maf signal- check volts out, should be 1.5-1.6 with ignition on not running, 2.0 volts when idling and go up to 5+ volts when reving. Injector wiring to ecu-check ohms at the injector back to the ecu, 87 ecu I think is high impedence should read 14 ohms, my 3 bad ones read 003 ohms, if you have noid lights you can plut into the injector connectors and see the signals O2 sensor- check volts on the signal, i don't remember the proper voltage but you can look up in FSM for the 87 ecu, nicco forums FSM is great and easy to look up Injectors- check ohms on each injector FSM again will give you info Good luck

S15 wash same as the s130,s30 tranny.

That would be awesome,,, hope you get the oiling figured out

Thanks znke for clarifying the differences

If you havent been reading my struggles in the EMS blog, I will update my build blog for what has happened. I started the z31 ecu install. Per the other posts on how to do this I decided to forgo the FPRelay wiring, MAF burn off wiring and I do not have the AAIC, cold start, and other features the 300zx computer operates. I wired the fuel pump to ignition on. Found out that I originally had the ignition on for the FPRelay wired to a resisted voltage of 5.5. That could have been my issue with not wanting to run over 4000rpm, pump did not have enough voltage to pump the correct amount of fuel. I did wire the pin 3,34 to coil wiring. Very straightforward. So tried to start, no spark. Had fuel. Did some diagnosing and found via continuity testing that the signal wire for the ignitor was grounding out. I had messed with the coil bracket during this install and did not notice the wire went under the clamp. So, fixed that and fired right up. Idled OK. But would not rev over 2000 rpm. Ended up being the wiring I did for the MAF. Against what most said can not be done I decided to use a Z32 MAF from a 1993 300zx(was my brothers knew it worked) Most upgrades you see like JimWolfe say to use a Cobra MAF. The z32 wiring looks the same as the cobra! I wired it that way which is what I found per a Nistune web site you can do and jim wolf. This did not work. I checked the voltage while the car was running and with ignition on motor not running. Checked the FSM for both the z31 and s130 ecu's. So I had to put the yellow wire with red stripe to the thin white wire to the z32 maf which is prong B. Then the 2 black wires C,D prongs(one has white striping on it) to the ground wire in the 83 harness. The fat white wire on the z32 maf E prong i attached to 12v ignition on. Got the correct signals going to the right place and then the maf was only sending .8 volts with ignition on and 1.2 at idle. The z31 300zx ecu is looking for 1.6 with ignition on and 2.0 for idle to 6-7 on revving. So the z32s operate at 0-5 volts and the z31s operate at 2-7. The Nistune site said to remove these 3 resistors. I did that and it started up idled and revved clean. So I cleaned everthing up. Attached wires permantly, redid my ground wires and took it for a spin. Ran great driving around the block. Then for another quick spin and came back to pick up my dad. We took off and got a mile away, the car died. Got it to restart but ran on 2 or 3 cylinders at best. Had mom come and tow us home. Back to diagnosis. Figured out that I had lost injectors 1,2,3. First by checking the plugs. Most looked fouled. So cleaned and reinstalled. Car would start but run rough. Pulled #1 injector wire and no difference in idle. Same with 2 and 3. Pulled 4 or 5 or 6 and motor died right away. Checked for power, pulled plug again and no gas or combustion on 1,2,3. Did ohm test on 1,2,3 wire connectors back to ecu and are at 001, test of 4,5,6 wire connectors and at 008. Seem to have lost the injector driver for 1,2,3. Upon more investigation it seems that in the haste of connecting the wires on the harness we(my dad) forgot to connect one of the thick black wires from the harness to anything. It was wrapped around and down under the intake. Seems it had a contact for a while to something but with further driving it lost connection and burned up the ecu driver. So NismoVictor is sending overnight another turbo ecu with the socket soldered in. All I will have to do is install the rom chip in the new ecu and remove the 3 resistors. He thinks he can fix the ecu's bad drivers. I will be sending it to him. Well the 15 minutes I drove the car was the best it has ever run. Stay tuned for more updates coming. Once i have this straightened out, the bumpers are coming off and will start some body work on the car.

To solve the speed sensor issue for the 240sx I got a J30 rear LSD with ABS. I then bought a digital dakota converter. Plugged into the ABS sender on the snout of the diff to the converter. Then converter to the speedo input. Converter Has 6 settings that will get the signal close to the speed signal for your car. Then there is an up/down button that you fine tune with. I think I had it about 1 mph off of true mileage per gps. For the S15 Sylvia 6 speed that is in my 260z, Zenke was able to drill out the speed sensor hole and slide a gear from a frontier truck in for a mechanical drive. This allowed to screw the speed cable of the 260z directly into the tranny! Works well! Yes the speed sensor is in the nose of the rear diff and they are all helicoil lsd's I believe they have one now that doesnt need the input from a source but can coordinate with GPS! Thats the way I would go.

I put the S15 sr20 6 speed in my car. Really tight gear set, especially with a 4.09 rear dif from z32 n/a. Zenke on hybridz did the customization to make it fit for me. Spent about the same thing you are for tranny and altercations to bellhousing. Manual transmissions will hold up to alot of HP just can't handle maximum shock. Dad ran a stock VW transaxle with only a super diff in his VW's for years. 180hp he would end up spinning the 3rd/4th gears on the shaft (only pressed on). Did brake main shafts, first gears and rear ring and pinions. He said spin to win. If it ever hooked hard, start pulling the wheels off the ground breakage was certain. I ran that 6 speed in my 95 240sx with a 350(flywheel)HP no issues. The 350z should be almost bullet proof, just as all parts the weakest link will arise to the top. Good luck should be a fun install.

Well stupidity prevails...... Found a ground wire that was not attached. Can you say duh. This was a wire that I moved during the new ecu install. It was one of the 2 fatter grounds from the harness in the engine compartment. I reattached and it did not help. I did an ohm test on the 6 injector connectors and the 3 that are not working have 001 and the 3 that work are reading 008. This could have burned out the injector driver in the ecu. The tuner is going to send me another ecu with the socket plug installed, I will switch in the rom chip and hopefully be ready to go.

Ok this morning before going to work did some more investigating. Per bernards instructions and reading the FSM further I started car and pulled injectors one at a time. Had 3 make no difference in the way it idles and 3 would almost make car stall. Didn;t know it would run on 2 cylinders. Doesnt run long on 3 for that matter. So pulled plugs to confirm, 1,2,3 pulgs are clean just like i put them in and have no fuel smell. 4,5,6 are sooted and smell of fuel. Now onto why they don't. I will try tonight when I get home to see. Ground wire maybe?

I followed Bernard advice to look at the Nistune page for rom installation. It has section nine about installing later model lower voltage MAFs on the Z31 ecu. It says to remove 2 long transistors and one small transistor. Here is the link, page 29. http://nistune.com/docs/NIStune_Type_1_Hardware_Installation.pdf So I did this and the car started and idled smoothly. I only had the MAF wires twisted together. It revved up and sounded great, then went totally lean. Since idled and ran well for a short period I attached connectors and re-plugged in. Car started up and revved up. Straightened up everything went for a drive, first down the street. Ran great. Then around the block even better. Went back to the house and picked dad up for a quick ride. Went to the end of our dead end back and pulled better than it ever has. Decided to take for longer trip with dad and made it about a mile away and the car died. Starts but is not firing on all cylinders. Had to call mom to tow home. My dad said that I need to put the air cleaner on when driving it because of the air flow and the dual electric fans will affect the reading on the MAF. Still does not answer the issue of just dying and not starting running on all cylinders. Will follow up with results. stopping to enjoy the holiday burgers on the grill.

Ok did that and is flashing 1 red 2 green. Went to EFEC-86 and says that the volt reading at idle should be between 2-3v, 2-4v under rev. I was only getting 1.2 on idle and would not go over 2v revving. Which this z31 ecu works on 2-7v and the z32 maf operates on 0-5 volts. Makes me think the maf is working but the computer is not reading what it thinks it should be and cutting fuel off. Per EF&EC 174 in the 1993 300zx FSM the maf should read .8 to 1.2 on idle and .8 with ignition off which is what I get testing the MAF.

Fuel Injection Control System Fuel is shut off above 2.000 rpm. (Engine speed does not exceed 2.000 rpm.) That is from the 88 FSM. EF & EC-29 Fail safe system. Air Flow Meter. So not a limp mode but a fail safe mode. Concurs my finding of the car running the same with maf plugged in or not. And the values reading of 1.2 volt reading at the signal wire while idling and not much change when reving.

Ok so runs. I had the wire from the ignitor to the ecu pin 5 pinched under the coil bracket. Stupid me was cleaning up some wiring and had the coil bracket off. Stupid I know. Car will idle but goes into a limp type mode if you try to rev the motor. Real rich on idle and goes rich/lean trying to rev the motor. Don't think the MAF is reading correctly.

Never mind, got my 2 ecu's to work.

tooquick240@gmail.com