240hoke

There would be ALOT of work in a proper V mount setup which I dont think would be worth the effort. You would have to get a special made radiator with slanted fins, custom hoodand front end And even when all that is said and done Im betting it doesn't do much for aerodynamics without designing everything in a wind tunnel... I dont think there is enough room on a s30 with the engine layout to have the proper slope for the radiator exit and not cause alot of turbulence but thats a topic for the aero board... and I already have a griffin radiator installed . As for electronics Im gong to be running Haltec more then likely, they make a ECU specifically for this motor already setup to run the VVT.

Arggh sorry I guess you cant link pictures from picasa... anyway fixed now.

So over the long thanksgiving weekend after filling my stomach i got a good bit of time working on the Z, the VQ is fully mounted and the car is back on the ground... now the fun begins. So anyway I relised i have this HUGE space in front of my motor and I just couldnt figure out what to do with it... So I though hurm why not just put the GF up there... Hood clearence.. check: But then I got jealous and though maybe I could ride up there... But while I was comfy it was just a little to tight and I thought the hood might not close very well... So I decided there will just have to be two front mount turbos

Its still a datsun and it wll be worth more then a evo in about 10 years when they are all 5 grand and ragged out by kids.

If you want to cut certain degrees out of a mandrel you can make a "mitre box" ouf of MDF, cutting u shapes out with a jig saw and layering them up with a flat piece on the bottom so you have a U channel the same radius as the pipe. Then mark off your angle lines and cut through with a hack saw, youll get straight accurate angles everytime.

heres an example from one of my OLD setups. Take a look at the charge pipe going from the i/c to the intake manifold. Thats cut at an angle..... if you see a flow issue there lemme know, I think its better then two 90's. In my next setup I used two 45's and made a perpendicular cut but i still think the S is more aesthetically pleasing

They may not exist.

I have had to cut angles for really tight bends several times if you cut the tubes equal you can make a tight S bend etc. I still use a band clamp just loossen and tilt.

I actually just use a hack saw so I can go slow and make sure the cut is straight. use a band clamp to make a straight line and go at it.

I think you should really think about things and prioritize. Is it worth it to have a second job and not have any free time or time to spend with you family... just so you can spend more on toys and not have time to use them? I think it will just lead to more arguments in the long run. Most people would be overjoyed to be able to bring in 90K a year.

This post is kinda late but.. 1fastZ: .25" is no where near enough material for adequate thread engagement 2D is preferred with 1.5D being the least I would go. So yes the bellhousings need to be machined, not that big of a deal really.

Good luck with the sale. I think I would start them lower then that since they don't cost much more new.

V6 = not that cool? it stomps the RB26.

Thats a beautiful bike! Im not into cruisers but I love that look.

Alrighty i got some time in the machine shop this weekend and finished the shifter relocater. It turned out really nice and retains the factory 6th gear lockout. The mounting arms are kind of prototypes as they *should* put the bucket in the right place but will probably require some fine adjustment to get it perfect. The next set will have more meat around the tranny mounting points and will be radiused and c'bored. Anyhow here is a picture of the sotck bracket and mine which moves the shifter forward a little over 4.1":

A lot of people don't realize the cost of having parts machined, especially in small quantities, the cost of the part though usually isnt hte biggest expense, somebody has put a lot of time in designing and testing most products this is what you pay people for. Im not knocking what your doing, but make sure what you do you design on your own and not copy whats been done. Then see how the prices look and if its worth it to you. I would NOT take somebodies "measurements" and make parts from them especially brake parts, unless they have them drawn up in solids works or cad. You never know how precise people measure.

When the swap is finished and working great I may think about it, everything will be modeled in SolidWorks so it just a matter of sending it to a machine shop.

I would consider it once mine is finished and ironed out. Hopefully around spring time.

Thats an interested way to mount the engine. I dunno if I would mount it to the stock T/C box right there but thats just me. Thanks for posting the pictures, good to see other people are working on getting this motor in a S30 too. Looks like he really has it set back Im assuming he is using a modified rear coolant tube and has a aftermarket/custom manifold? I chose not to Solid mount the engine because I will be running the car on the street regularly and don't wanna have to check all the bolts every time I drive her I have all my shifter relocation stuff drawn up so Ill hopefully get them machined here soon, about to order some stock now. I was able to take 4" out of the final length. Rick - Thanks! Shes going to eventually be front mount twins but will be N/A for a little while should make for a fun track car. Im going ahead with stand alone ems and a few other things to make going turbo easy later.

keep the rebello, turbo it down the road and make GOBS of power

Looking good Matt, nice truck. Cant wait to use it for SEZ next year I think I would have to agree though, remove all the accessories. Needs the stock grill and tinted window vents too, too much white. Maybe some ZG's and Wats would look good. We should line you and Ryan up for a race.

Nope, There will be a front tubular crossmember as well there are pictures of the initial mock up on my site. It will serve as the suspension crosmember and steering rack mount just like stock. We were talkign about this only a few posts up The engine mounts for the engine are just that engine mounts, they use the stock 350z isolators.

Fianlly got the time to work on my car some this weekend and got a decent amount of work done. One thing I did was tear down the intake and I couldnt believe it... I knew the motor only has a couple hundred miles on it but DAMN this thing is clean, looks like I bought it new from nissan! Ill post some pictures of it later. Right now Im drawing up a few things. Working on converting the stock fuel rails to a return style system using AN fittings and an aeromotive regulator. I will also be drawing up an adapter for a manual throttle body, ill be using a q45 TB. The biggest thing though is the shifter relocation bracket which will move the shifter forward 4" and allow it to be in a much more convinient location. Should get it drawn up tonight and hopefully machined by this weekend. ALSO..... Just for shits and giggles I drew up a quick rendering of my frame rail and engine mount in SolidWorks and tested it using Cosmos to see how much stress and displacement would be present at different loading levels since many doubted the strength of my layout. I modeled it with 1020 steel and 2.5x2.5 .083 tube (what my rails are made from) I applied a 1000lb load on the engine mount location on one side and got a safety factor of over 2 and only a few thousanths of displacment. And that is WAYYY more torque then my motor will be dishing out. I still agree a crossmember would be better, but in my case I dont think it nessecary especially using the stock isolaters.

Just a quick update for everyone... I havent completely made up my mind but it looks like I'm going to be going with Haltech EMS. They have just developed a PNP system specifically for the 350z in conjunction with Injected Performance. Looks to be a very promising piece. Has 24x24 table to control the VVT, only thing left for the stock ECU to handle is the DBW setup, which I will be throwing in the trash can in favor of a standard TB. Injected performance has run hundreds of tuning sessions to dial the ECU in and it will come already mapped pretty close to whatever setup you have. I talked with Hal at IP yesterday and he said they pulled another 20hp (dyno dynamics) out of a bone stock 2003 motor on tuning alone. Anyway hopefully Ill be able to go home and get some work done on the car in the next few weeks.

Just the cores are cast usually and it depends on how your center section is made, some are extruded and some are brazed bar and plate. I ended up powder coating my end tanks and then spraying a light coat of high heat spray paint on the center.