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aarang

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Everything posted by aarang

  1. aarang
    Complete front 79-81 bumper minus shock mounts = 28lbs. I was able to get creative with a plasma cutter and remove 10 lbs on the rear bumper and 8 lbs on the front. Also, the Euro/JDM style non overider style bumper covers are 2 lbs lighter each from their USDM counterpart. I saved a total of 12 lbs on the rear and 10 lbs on the front.
  2. aarang
    I think he needs to remove one of the zeros from the price!
  3. aarang
    Sounds like the CAS in the dizzy could possibly be going out, or you are falling victim to corroded EFI connections. Had the same thing happen to me. Same symptoms.
  4. aarang
    I had an 810 wagon ages ago. The L24E developed a rod knock, so we pulled it out and transplanted just a plain jane L28E. Even just that swap made a big difference in how the car drove. Way more fun to drive after that.
  5. aarang
    I got lucky, only one of my RKR's is a slightly different shade. Not really noticable when on the car. Seems to be a common issue with the Rota's.
  6. aarang
    Got a complete L28ET, harness,ECU, ZXT CV shafts, drive line for $99 on sale last year at Pick-N-Pull
  7. aarang
    Posted them in the wheel/tire thread
  8. aarang
    Finally the RKR's are on. Fr 17x8.5 +4, Rear 17x9.5 -0- steel gray.
  9. aarang
    Yes, you could just put a ring terminal on it and connect it to the negative side of the coil with the other wire. If you take the small plastic cover from the fender well where the black/white wire comes from, it should be part of the same harness. Probably will have to make it longer as it looks like they used part of it for the HEI conversion.
  10. aarang
    Black with white is the positive wire from the ignition switch. Blue goes to the tach and should be on the negative side of the coil regardless of what is triggering it ( the coil). If there is no blue wire coming from the fender well, then most likely it is not hooked up unless it got rerouted some other way.
  11. aarang
    Do those end up being lighter than the steelies?
  12. aarang
    I have had these on my car since they came out. No problems yet. They only have one heim joint on the fwd end to replace the bushings, and mount to the LCA like stock. I don't think there would be any twist with these, as it is a pretty long leverage arm.
  13. aarang
    $100 each
  14. aarang
    I have tried to order these through O'reillys. They just end up sending the 300ZX N/A shafts which are too long. They show them as the same part #, at least they do where I am at. I just ended up having mine O/H'd.
  15. aarang
    Yes, it seems the OEM Nissan ones are the only ones with cast impellers nowadays. I've seen the stamped impeller ones corrode away in a year so I steer clear of those.
  16. aarang
    Use electrical contact cleaner and try some Caig DeOxit ( I think that's how you spell it). I have to use the cleaner and DeOxit about once a year on my ZXT harness.
  17. aarang
    Looking for an L24 crankshaft in the Portland/Vancouver area. Mainly looking for a virgin crank, but if it has been turned undersize properly I'll consider it. LMK what you got.. Thanks Aaron
  18. aarang
    Count me in
  19. aarang
    Most likely yes, .75mm is appx .030
  20. aarang
    .75mm
  21. aarang
    97218
  22. aarang
    Hey, I was going to order the kit minus the calipers, and noticed the shipping charges are the same for the kits with and without the calipers. Can you include the shipping for Christmas?
  23. aarang
    Arizona Z-car sells new L28 rods
  24. aarang
    4.5" of backspace is a safe number and will leave plenty of room on an S130 with stock suspension depending on the width of the wheel. You can fit pretty large wheels under the stock fenders with the right offset. It would be best to grab a tape measure and start measuring.
  25. aarang
    Finally after eight months of waiting. Gotta wait until after Christmas to buy tires
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