socorob

This place shows 240 ones on their website, but not sure how old this site is. http://shop.rareparts.com/smtp/shopdisplaycategories.asp?iyear=1972&imake=0041|NISSAN&imodel=1008|240Z&iproduct=0049|STEERING,%20GEAR,%20PUMP%20&%20COMPONENTS

maybe you could bolt brackets to the underside of the bolts that hold the flares on to screw the inner fender to for support.

I have 4.1 degrees caster with no binding and the bolts came out with no jamming. I just took them out about a month ago when I swapped springs from front to back. As I add more caster, I also have to add more length to the lca to keep camber, so that may be whats keeping mine from jamming? I'm not trying to says its a great design or a bad design, just saying it seems to work with my setup at this point without issue. Is that why these other arms he makes have forward heims also? https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/gtx2-front-lower-control-arms-and-tc-rods-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z

Well.not a movie but a tv show. Final episode of top gear.

Im running just over 4, my limiting factor is the outer tie rod ends. When I adjust them to over 4, it starts to take camber out, so when I start to lengthen the lower control arm to get some more negative camber, I run out of threads on the outer tie rods. I need to get the longer heims he has to correct this. A question I have directly related to this, is the way TTT control arms inner pivot on the heims mount. He has a heim with spacers, which allow you to move the inner pivot point a little forward or back. The way it works, it allows the control arm to angle towards the front of the car, be square to the car, or angle back in the car, when looking straight down from above. What is the best way to set the control arm? I have mine pretty much square, but not sure if angled one way or the other would help, hurt, or not make a difference.

I guess they assume you're using their lower control arms that have a heim joint at the inner pivot. That gives 2 points of flex out of the 3 corners of a triangle. My lca also has a 2nd set of holes to bolt the tc rod to about an inch more towards the center of the car. I think that's in case you get wheel rubbing when using a lot of caster.

With the TtT rod, the asjusted is on the rear side of the rod.https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/tension-control-rods-datsun-240z-260z-280z You can see the adjuster in this picture.

Matsuo and the other guy with him were really talking a lot about the louvers on Darrens hood. They kept touching them and pointing at different areas of the hood and inspection lids. I wish someone there understood Japanese to know what they were talking about.

11s would be awesome. I heard Z1 wasn't doing z nats in October? I hope to be able to get to another track night in america in 2 weeks. That swaybar upgrade seemed to make a big difference. I will be able to tell for sure if I get to go back on the track here.

the lt1swap.com guy charges 75 i think.

I didn't. Thanks again for showing me how to do a proper burnout. I was getting frustrated and about to give up after those runs with absolutely no traction. It felt like driving on ice (from what I can remember driving on ice feeling like ).

Thanks! Your car is a beast and would have blown me away if you had ran. Next time I will remember to turn the AC off sooner.

i was running all race slicks. Because of the time crunch I guess I will end up with race slicks in the rear and dot slicks in the front for zcon. At this point its my only option.

I just ordered 2 from tire rack. I had to go with hankooks since those were the only ones they could get to me in time. I wish I would have known about the used dealers before I ordered these. At the track nights I went to, I saw several newer cars running street tires that were destroyed at the end of the night. I was hoping to save my street tires, so wanted to go with slicks for the track. Hopefully these will be decent enough tires, at least better than street tires. Thanks for the info guys, I will contact those places whenever I need more.

Thanks. I just got off the phone with michelin and they told me the same thing. Would it hurt to have a different brand slick front than rear, since it's all I can get a hold of before the end of the week?

Got a screw in one slick after using them once. Stopped at a tire shop I pass on the way to work and they said they won't patch slicks. They said they flex too much for the patch to hold. Is it a bad idea to patch them? Also is it a bad idea to only run slicks front or back since I don't think I will be able to find a replacement in time for Zcon?

They filmed that near where my friend works. He said they had 2 identical ZXS out there

Did Datsuns imported into France back in the day come with yellow lights? They seemed to like yellow lights over there.

How was the fit of the show cars one from ebay, and how do you attach it to the car?

What, where and how Is everyone strapping down their cars? Are yall using straps that go over the wheels, just straps hooked to the tow hooks, etc?

I read on another forum an interior engineer from gm I think said not to glue, the more you decouple the interior from the exterior, the quieter it will be.

NICE! I'm sure you're in the top .5% of fastest z driving out there.

http://www.mingdom.com/Cars/Motorsports/SCCA-Track-Night-NOLA-5615/i-S7dwhHr/A http://www.mingdom.com/Cars/Motorsports/SCCA-Track-Night-NOLA-5615/i-KHFZ8FP/A http://www.mingdom.com/Cars/Motorsports/SCCA-Track-Night-NOLA-5615/ I am running a stock LS1, T56. I have the body stitch welded from wheel well to wheel well, with an angle brace welded in going from near the front strut top down to in front of the bottom of the door inside the fender. In the pictures above, you can get an idea of the amount of lean the car is getting in the turns. This was with used clicks, -1.4 camber in front, -.9 in the rear, I think 4 degrees caster. I was staying behind an MR2 that stayed really flat in the curves. We were running about the same lap times, but he would pull away from me in the turns, and I would catch him on the straights. I had bought a rear bar, but ended up sending it back before I even opened it after reading the suspension FAQs. Seems like a lot of people there use 1", but their cars are probably much lighter than mine.

My car is a 78 with full interior. I have the plates to stiffen up the sway bar area from bad dog welded to the chassis. I have done 2 track days and an autox so far this year, and the few pictures I've seen of my car in the turns, and what it feels like from inside the car, shows I am getting a ton of body roll. I have the stock bar up front and no rear bar. I have konis all around with 300 springs in front and 250 rear. I was looking at upping the front bar to help with the body lean, but not sure whether to go with 1 inch Addco or 1 1/8 inch st front bar. There's a chart in the black dragon catalog that shows the percentage of how stiff each bar is over stock and shows the 1 1/8 bar to be a lot stiffer than the 1". I don't want to go too big and have the car act more like a solid front axle. I'm not even sure with these bars if that's even an issue. Is one size recommended over the other, or is bigger better? I've read in the suspension faq and it seems a lot of people use the 1", but those are on much lighter cars than mine. What would be the better choice for a heavyweight 280?

175 mph in a Z must feel like 200!