wigenOut-S30

I had thought about running it the way KTM's is run but I had already ordered my pipe and layed out the plan.. I think im going to stick with how it is for a while.. but when I change turbo's I might just swap out like that as well.

in the 50's at night.

Ok I went out tonight and data logged. Here are the results.. drove around for about 30 minutes and then saved 2 datalogs.. Gears are 2nd to the top of 4th. 2nd gear AIT's got up to 74-deg, 3rd got up to 88-deg, 4th ran up to 99-deg. My second run was pretty much identical accept 4th climbed up to 101. I say.. NOT BAD!!! considering It used to be 114-120.

No problemmo shaggy... Yasin That would be awesome if you can man.. that way we can nail down some hard data. I Got my clamps in today so I might be able to do some pulls tonight..

no were in my post did I say it was scientific fact. Just the findings that I have found. During cruising the aluminum should be about the same as mild steel but where the huge difference is after the engine is turned off. The aluminum will cool off much much much faster. I guess what we need is someone who has there IC piping run the way I do in Option B but has Mild steel.

I have seen oil filter studies and Fram came out very very low. Especially the fram extra guard. Fram Extra Guard Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circuilating through my system. The oil passge to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it. http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html#fram-ph8a The study results. http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilters.html Sorry your engine went south man.. I hope you get get it back up and going with out too much trouble.

Hey hybridZ folx, There was a discussion a while back about the more efficient way to run your IC piping if you had a IC with the inlet and outlet on the opposite sides. This is what I have found from having my IC piping both ways.. First off the way I used to have it. The hot side went straight to the IC and the cold side went accross the Radiator and into the TB.(this was with mild steel as well) We will call this Option-A- Then I wanted to change things up and run the opposite direction for looks and comparison. (aluminum piping now) We will call this way Option-B- Just to let everyone know.. I was on the wrong side of this debate. My thinking was, It really didn't matter which way the IC piping went because of the air moving so fast it just wouldn't matter. Well.. I was wrong!! It does make a difference and a pretty significant one. With Option A, I noticed when cruising I was getting about 9-11 deg above ambient temps. At WOT.. it was around 114-125 deg. Option B, I am getting 1-3 deg above ambient temps. Thats a pretty large difference I wasn't expecting!! Right now I cannot do WOT pulls because of wrong size T-bolt clamps but the new ones will be here Monday and I will do some WOT comparison. I am thinking my WOT will be cooler as well. This is just something I wanted to do and I am glad I did. Option A isn't a bad way to do things at all, but option B seems to be more efficient so far.. Thanks for looking and keep tuned in for WOT test!..

HAHAHAHAHAHAA.. wow.. too awesome!!! Joel, I will be looking forward to seeing the mag.. You need to visit Mobile again.. we got a certain Datsun 510 wagon up and going.. and around 500hp@2200 lbs.. LOL its pretty sick..

I went to electric fan a few years back and will not go back to clutch fan. Simple fact , it looks cleaner. Both do a great job of cooling the L motor down. If you do go with a electric fan, Just make sure you get a good one. I have a 16" zirgo and have been pretty happy with it. If you have the money. Flexalite are the best. Dual 10" fans with a built in shroud.

Looking awesome jeff. I think when your tuned you will find your Z not the same animal as you had before lol. new setup looks great man!!!

Are you seeing any white smoke coming out of the tail pipe? Is it pushing coolent out of the coolent resevoir? Have you checked for leaks? you could have a hose leaking but only under pressure. I would get the car up to temp and then check it out while its running. See if you can see anything leaking.

Joel took himself and that awesome setup on a 800mile road trip to the last DNI shootout.. The setup is purely awesome!! Jeff, That DP looks massive!!. Cannot wait to see it in the Z. Great job man!

Heck yeah man.. Keep me posted on how ya do at the track..

Well My new Aluminum IC piping is done. I painted it all Gloss black. Everything fits perfectly.. Well accept.. I guess the new couplers are thicker then my old ones and my T-Bolt clamps will not fit now.

Yeah I touched on them, but I didnt want to port them too much and go through..

before with my hybrid T3/T4 sleeper turbo.. I was getting 18psi @ 3100rpms.. we shall see.

Garretts was about the same as mine is right now, his is bored over to a 3.0 ltr, Mine is still a 2.8, but I have JE forged pistsons, 8:0.1 compression ratio compared to stock 7:4.1. The head has been rebuilt with a 3 angle valve job and port matched. I am not restricted with a AFM now. The faster you can get air into the motor and out of the motor , the more power you will make. Has any one else lost power from porting the exhaust manifold? from what it looks like stock.. its really not designed that great, 4 cly lead through a tiny little hole to the turbo flange, then the other 2 cly are pretty much open. I am expecting some gains, but I doubt they will be huge.. Every little bit helps though.

Well we shall see, but I do know that Ivan picked up a pretty substantial amount of power by doing this. Ivans manifold is now on garretts car which was making 460rwhp on pump gas. Now with his new head should be closer to 5XX or so. I am thinking I will actually get boost alittle sooner and flow more at higher RPMs.

wont be able to tell till I get it on the road..