Tony D

My Megasquirt is logging a 15-20 degree difference between the thermostat location and the CHTS at the same time. That's saying it gets to temperature faster than at the thermostat location. If I start the car, it will show 100 at the thermostat, while the CHTS is showing 100, quickly thereafter I will see 115/120 at the CHTS while the thermostat is still at 100. If it let it sit there at idle for a while the differential will rarley exceed 5 degrees F. So from a static standpoint, they are 'identical' temperatures. BUT.... When I go out and actually drive the car, I will see a temperature change on the CHTS almost immediately, whereas the Thermostat mounted location will lag for a significant time. If under sustained load, eventually the temperature will stabilize to within the 5-10 degree difference between CHTS and Thermostat, but under quick loads, I have seen the difference be as much at 20 to 25 degrees. My thinking is the CHTS location is a more quickly responding location than the thermostat. Under loads it seems to rise faster and to higher numbers than what the T-Stat location seems to show. I'd be curious to see if you can duplicate my testing results independently. I can see how a localized hot-spot can cause detonation issues, and that putting the sensor there would 'safe' the whole engine based on hottest-spot sensing. Everywhere in the world got a thermostat housing mounted sensor, but for some reason we got a CHTS with the same sensing resistance pairs... I think they had an issue with Federal Emissions, and needed a more precise control of hot-spot sensing like for leaning out / egr mapping. As a result the relocated the sensor. This plays well for guys with turbos as you want the same sort of quick response. Anyway, that was the long form of the 'yes there is a difference in the temperatures, the CHTS responds quicker with higher peaks in the read temps than the thermostat location'. I guess you are happy you didn't use a metal gasket and blow your piston in #5 about now, eh? Look on the bright side, because that is it! Get your tuning down, and THEN seal it hard. Till then, use your head gasket as your safety valve. You don't want to sink any ring lands on those pistons!!!

Blast from the past! That is an 80's era Electronic Fuel Injection setup. Analog fuel computer...SK made them as well. They used double stock injectors as that was all that was available at the time, and with the pulsewidth control it got hairy to get anything idling. The second stage of injectors was set to come on after 2500rpms, just before the engine starts getting on the torque curve. For some Megasquirt applications with a dual-table setup it would be killer... BTW, they are 'OER' Aftermarket Throttle Bodies. Wickedbitchencool that it comes with the OEM Installation Manual! If I didn't already have a set of HKS ITB's from similar vintage, I'd be sorely tempted to bid on them for the price they are currently sitting at! That setup would work nicely at Bonneville. They are 50mm Bodies, that is some HEAVY flow!

Is the back end subframe mounted like the S130 or Z32? If so, one of more of the big bushings that mount to the unitbody may be deflecting due to damage or wear. Whole back end can move around and send you off in all sorts of directions under power. If you had wrinklewalls, that would be different...JeffP's car wants to change lanes when he romps it...flexy sidewalls do that... Good Luck! Keep us posted on what you find!!!

Yeah, that's the lighter option! LOL

32 valve pushrod heads have been available for SB Chevies for years. Detroit Diesels ran a four valve head with bridged valves off pushrods, and that was a two stroke! LOL

Just blank the mounting face, allowing final machining to suit the end user. As for TWM throttle bodies, most ITB's use the standard Weber/Mikuini/Solex/OER/Dellorto inlet side carburettor flange dimensions, so it should be universal. I don't know if the TWM manifold makes any radical departure on bore spacing of the pairs either. My Cannon Manifold used the same ITG filter base with 40mm Webers as my Mikuini 44's on a Mikuini Manifold, as did the Dellortos on the JDM manifold. So that issue may well be a non-starter. I think the biggest difference on the manifolds is length, and mounting height. Cannon/JDM/TWM seem to be straight out from the head, while the Mikuini mounts the carb bodies notably higher above the headers. TimZ has some good photos of this in some of his older posts. My HKS ITB's have the same mounting surface print as my Mikuini 44's, so if that's any indicator the manifold would be a 'universal part' the only caveat being hood clearance on a Mikuini-Manifolded Car.

Will the fuel/brake lines have a 'scatter cover' where they pass through the plane of rotation of the flywheel? I don't know if that's required by class or not. Ususally a 1/4" plate suffices, and you can make it look decent without too much effort. Kudos for getting it in the car and looking great. Inspires me to get out there and do my 73 at long last...

I want to confirm for anyone wondering, I plugged Gavin's numbers into a stock 280Z that we are prepping for the 24 Hours of Lemons at Thunderhill the end of this month, and the car fired and ran well. Burned 'em leaving the line and good scratch in second gear as well! So for an 'out of the box I HAVE to drive this RIGHT NOW' plug-and-play 8X8 set of N/A tables I will say they worked. My differences (which attest to Gavin's Map) I have O2 correction disabled, so it's running ONLY on his map. My Req Fuel is something like 18.6 or thereabouts, only because I used 170CC injectors (which I thought were stock), this should be of no consequence. WE currently have the accel bins and cold start enrichment 'off' for all intents and purposes because we wanted to test his MAP, and not how well anyting was masked. I will post back as we install the rest of this supplementary enrichments on his original post, but I know there are people looking for 'confirmation' that one set of tables works well or not. I say Gavin's is a great table for someone who needs to drive the car right after installation. Chances are good we will be runnning his fueling table for the race, unaltered. Thanks for posting, Gavin.

Having disassembled several 280Z's this past month (particularly the front ends) I would be curious as to the effect the larger bumpers, turn signal relocation, and little winglets behind the bumper all have on the flow on the front of the car 280Z versus 240Z. From the data Nissan used, they referenced 'the prior model' in the S130 literature, but their diagrams show a 240Z. I have gotten curious as to the aero difference between an all stock 240 with the skinny bumper, versus the 77/78 models with the big bumpers and all the other radiator opening blocking items (bumper, turn signals, turn signal mounting brackets, etc). Being that last word I got was 'the rules will be rewritten in this off season' I'm having a bad feeling that our Bonneville effort will not be reproduced with a G-Nose on the car, but with full 77/78 280Z factory dress. And I'm not loving the thought of sourcing new bumper rubbers...saved two sets, but the $$$ on E-Bay people get for them is making it cheaper to run a G-Nose!

I believe 1 Fast Z is running a copper head gasket on his DOHC Conversion, as well as his 3.1 Stroker. I also believe he said he can source them for customers. "Search, the Truth is out there!"

Yes, the BiTurbo and the Lotus were two Blowthrough OEM applications. I used Maserati Bi-Turbo as it was notably mentioned by CB. The Lotus used a lot more boost than the Maserati. WooHoo! All the parts for the Dellorto DHLA in turbo service are suitable for fittment to the N/A DHLA for conversion to the Turbo Service.

IT IS TOO SMALL! I made one, and it was horrid on carburettors. MUCH worse than the knockoff HKS I build in Japan. It should be more like 4X4, which is about Cartech size, but it's still just a box and doesn't pressurize the float bowls to enrich on-boost like the HKS and SK Plenums do. With the proper entry strategy, and plenum that size could probably be baffled to work correctly, but inside an extrusion it would be a job. You may as well fabe the whole thing and not take shortcuts.

CB was vending Dellortos for a long while since they have specific turbo-application emulsion tubes, as well as seals for the throttle shafts. OEM fittment on the Maserati BiTurbo (Dellorto). For OEM driving (period correct) I'd find Dellortos and get the book "Turbomania" sold by Claudes Buggies (CB Performance)....it may disturb some, it knocks a lot of myths out of the Blowthrough Carb setup.But keep in mind CB now sells EFI for Turbo Applications for a reason...

There is the thing that nobody points out: "when it's on".... It is very unlikely that your electric fan will be on driving down the road at any speed over 30mph, or during a 1/4 mile run. And it's this time when all available horsepower is required, lettting the electric fan free up the 2-5 hp that a fan will soak up. If you look at the clutch fan engagement speeds and freewheel speeds even when the fluid coupling is disengaged, the fan is still being turned, there is no way to totally stop it it's using horsepower. On an electric, you can simply turn it off, elminating all parasitic drag. If the fluid coupling is engaged, the horsepower to drive it at locked-coupling speeds is prodigious. People really don't realize how much horsepower a fan can suck up when moving air. As an example, Ingersoll-Rand went to an electric driven fan on their air-cooled compressors (5hp motor) to give a perceived marketing advantage over a competitior Atlas Copco, who used a fan turned by the main motor driver shaft through it's compressor's gearbox. When comparing compressor total CFM output, purchasing agents would see the I-R unit 'made 25 more CFM' than the Atlas Copco did....But when you looked at total package absorbed KW, they were identical (at full load). One way or the other, the engine needs to be cooled. With an E-Fan it only cools when needed. With an engine driven fan, regardless, you are always using main motor power to keep it spinning. Also, using the battery as capacitance, the electrical load of the E-Fan turning can be dampened out as a lower overall load instead of a huge instantaneous hit to the alternator. So it's a lower drain than if there was no battery at all...same power is used, just sperada out over more time. Same as adding a large air vessel in a compressed air system---the more storage you have, the lower the hp requirement you can get away with to handle impulse loadings.

That's only 420 HP on a stock bore/stroke L28. Which is why, other than some nostaligic reason, or period restoration using ITB's and Fuel Injection is a better option at these horsepower levels.

Anybody familiar with SPG Dowelling Jigs for Crankshafts? 8 dowels, offset, with a big gland nut in the center like a knock-off wheel spinner. VW has em... Many prepped Datsun engines have dowels in the flywheel (besides the LD28) to add some shear resistance, as well as positively locating the flywheel in the EXACT same place every time it's removed. Critical when you want that expensive balance job to actually be repeatable. I was looking at the photos, and it looks like something in the journal propogated outward, but it's very hard to tell from the photos---or at least on my computer it is the way it opens the photos. It's an interesting looking break, that is for sure. Blast from the past: Don Potter, the "Curmudgeon" LOL Say it in a loving way. I'm positively radiant that someone remembers someone meaner than me (when he wanted to be) ROMAFLOL!!!!! He did nice distributor work. E88 Heads as well. Is he still up in Milpitas anybody know? What was it DLP Engineering?

Watch Wangan Midnight again. The engine STARTED as a Carb Blowthrough. By the end of the movie it's ITBs and Fuel Injection. The car is real (was) done by SSS. Search and ye shall find. I'm surprised it hasn't hit the tool shed, as this one is covered extensively.

The Injetor being where it is doesn't affect flow like you would think. Air comes in from the edges of the port, not directly down the center of the hole. It's why full radius horns flow better then straight hole walls.

It was common for people to use the exhaust tubing, and spotweld a washer inside so when they drilled the inspection hole that shows what thickness the piping is, it looks thicker than what it really is! Usually they did a bad job, and you could see the seam between the two. But some guys were pretty good at brazing, soldering, or simply painting it good enough to cover it up and make it look 'thick'. Once enough people were doing it, the inspection hole was to be drilled by the inspector at a point of his choice. That stopped the B.S. Straightaway. Holes for venting so you didn't get blowout when welding were to be drilled in the mounting plates...yeah that was the nezxt excuse to dodge the rules.

What was it? It needed adjusting, or the bearing wasn't seated making the assembly too long?

You shouldn't have listened to your friend. 1) Pull your transmission back off. 2) Install the T/O collar off the 240 Tranny -OR- Install the matching clutch and pressure plate from the 280 to the 240 engine. Your collar is the wrong size for the diaphragm you have in there. Frankly, I would have kept it all '280Z' by changing the clutch cover and the clutch without changing the flywheel. They should be the same size (diameter). I don't believe that changed till the 280ZX. Your friend screwed you. As for the shifter, you have to alter the hole for it not to hit in 1,3,5 gears. Depending on the production date of your 71 this may or may not be a problem. Sounds like your shifter goes into all gears without hitting the tunnel sheetmetal, so I don't think you have the earlier hole position. I think these are the questions you are asking, I'm slightly befuddles by yoru syntax and word usage and what it means exactly, but knowing the swap you did, I'm hitting the 99% issues that usually come up when people don't 'follow the rules' for matching components. GOOD LUCK!

John, you would really like Ad (the guy with the aluminum bolts for the CF fenders.) You sound just like him!

Just as a note, the Eurospec L28ET's run a .82 A/R exhaust turbine, and a simpler EFI system that utilizes a standard E12-80 Distributor fitted with a Pneumatic Retard Cannister....and it was rated at 200HP. So yeah, pretty much you remap a stock turbo and a 20hp bump is the minimum to be expected when you put the fueling in line with the Eurospec version. A good downpipe and exhaust can add 20HP on a stock setup without the remapping. So without an I/C and only fuel remapping and a good exhaust 220 should be available at the crank. That's plenty fast for an S30 with a stock suspension as stated above. Make it handle first, learn to drive it to 10/10ths' second, and then start adding power to the chassis as by then you will know what you have to tweak to keep it all hooked up. Not what most want to hear, but the biggest item holding a Z-Car back is usually found behind the wheel, not under the bonnet!

Nice Shed! Wish I had one that size. Or any indoor working environment... Terrible, I notice the garage! LOL

It is a 'top mount'...add that to the mix. There is an adapter that goes on the inlets (which can be in two different places) that points forward, though, so you have several options. The biggest difference between the SK and the HKS is that both HKS plenums utilize cast-in baffling to diffuse the air, and separate the airflows to give a higher-pressure zone in the float bowls under boost, where the SK has a simple 2mm thick baffle that is secured in with screws after mounting the unit.