Tony D

Find a Gravel Pit and call ahead. Midweek when there isn't a lot of traffic outgoing and they should do nicely. I weigh mine at the CAT registered scales 4 miles from the house at the ARCO AP/PM Travel Center. It wants to be a truck stop, really it does! Just no traffic. Anything they can get across the scales to pay for them they gladly accept!

The Celica, ON PAPER looks great. in the JDM they had 130 HP --- same as a 2.0 Fairlady Z. But it was no contest. What do you expect on a fanboy website? Like I said, I owned BOTH with BOTH purchased from their original owners in the early 80's. The Celica Liftback was a nice car, but it was no Z. In fact, my buddy with a 2+2 got rid of his Celica to get that 2+2... Just no comparison. Regardless of the fanboy claims. 'Whoop'? Riiiiight!

1, 1, 1 Trichlorethane... Methelyene Chloride... Carbon Tet... Oh the days when "clean" meant "clean" and you weren't scrubbing and scrubbing...and where grease just sloughed off from the mere vapors given off!

HAHAHAHA! You just brought me back to a sweltering garage in NE Michigan in 1980... As for quick disconnect tubing---look up LEGRIS fittings. There are generic and chinese crap out there now---connecting them with the rigid HDPE or High Temp Plastic Tubing stubs, it's a press and pull proposition to disconnect them. Simply pushing a similar diameter solid plug, or cap in the hole plugs it for tuning. They also make small ball-valves that you can put in the lines...but that might get spendy for something you aren't doing all that often. A carb jet in the MAP line, or even a small engine fuel filter can give some capacitance to dampen the pulsations to a more realistic 'average' MAP signal without degrading the MAP higher up in the rpm range where you want high resolution. Alpha-N is nice on ITB's for Idle. And that's about it, going with the TEC2 PAFZZ Blend program, on the Bonneville Car, it was like night and day. Alpha N at closed throttle and a graduated Alpha-N/MAP based phase in based on rpm or MAP (forget which, may have been both) as the rpms rise and the cam comes on to give a good steady signal. I like that comment "Once again, Tony's advice was spot-on" I will screen shot that and use to to make others apoplectic... The royalty check is in the mail, but I need to get a security deposit from you first...to my bank in Nigeria....

I saw you posted and started some quick mental math and went "oh, well....maybe...." But that was EXTERNAL stuff you can SEE that was worth that much. Not some nebulous internal stuff! Then again, "My experiences do not normally apply to the normal human."

I often thought while driving the Celica "This is a really nicely built car, but it needs a Buick 3.8 Turbo Engine to get some decent performance." I never thought that in my Z.

You're kidding right? You mean like a 75 Celica RA27 or that? It was no competition, and it still isn't today they were two different classes of machines. Toyota wanted a sports car, they got the Celica. Running gear of a Corona/Corolla/etc... Lots of Noise and Sounds, not a lot of motion. This coming from someone who owned a 75 Celica GT Liftback (with the most powerful DOHC N/A engine Toyota offered, from a GSS Corolla: 18RG-R) AND a 1975 S30(S) both less than 10 years from new off the dealer's floor, both as stock as stock can be (The Celica had an engine change after going through the torture test I did on my S11 Sylvia and the engine locked up...couldn't hack it.) If wive's opinions count my wife HATED the Celica, as much as I enjoyed it as a diversion toy... and called me one day asking "How Fast is 140 KPH?" When I asked why, she said "The Z just seems to get quiet and like running there..." Compare a Sylvia and a Celica. As much as Toyota wanted a Sports Car, they made a Sedan.... and it wasn't anywhere NEAR what the Z was until after Celica XX days split the line and dropped 'Celica' and changed to 'Supra'... But that wasn't for 20 years or so...

I, too call BS especially if it's the engine in the photos! It's an L28 until he pulls the head and shows you bore and stroke, and the camshaft back end! (Or you crank it with a Mr. Gasket Cylinder Capacity Pump, and verify the cam by pulling the cover!) If it sounds too good to be true....it is!

Why not work with them? It sounds like the issues have not been resolved fully. You have to take these one by one and cover basics. I'm curious about the HEI Tach Issue you said you have--were you running the "TACH" terminal off the HEI? And was that signal split to the ECU and the Tachometer in the car? The Fuel Hi/Fuel Low sounds like a pulsation issue--what filter do you have in the system, and do you have an accumulator in the system. Is there a Hysteresis setting on the Fan Relays--I had a similar problem, it was adding of an 'off delay' on the stop signal---fan came on, dropped the temp and it stopped the fan almost immediately. Nothing here sounds all to out of the ordinary, just nature of the beast. You just gotta work it out.

I will also add that for around $300 you can get a copy of the original "Deregistered For Export" Japanese Title. This will tell you sold date, when it left Japan, and in whose name it was registered in when it left the country. Obviously this would have been before it came to the USA. Likely a PACAF to USAFE Transfer. PM me and I will send you a link.

Incidentally, I agree with everything Alan has posted. I will add with those stated offers, I'd sell it and buy another one. Next offer you get like that, tell them you know a guy with S30-06225 (Alan can chime in with production details! LOL)

Yes, HS30-H, and I thank Alan for being far more charitable with comments from people giving bad information to you. I WAS around (and in the USAF) in 1985. The Air Force didn't ship anything but Officers household Goods and the occasional POV via Cargo Space-A at that point in time. I know, the TMO screwed my shipping up, and it went so far as my congressman pushing all the buttons to get my stuff to me via this route. POV's went Surface Freight unless you were up there. It wasn't the 1950's in SAC...

Oh My Gawd Gawd forbid written words offend the delicate sensibilities of those guys! Good Luck with that!

"I still don't know if 280z resistor pack is compatible with l28et injectors." ESL: The injectors are all the same. The last two years of ZX used revised DRIVERS for the injectors. Up to that point ANY Bosch Licensed Resistor was THE SAME. Nissan L4, VW Flat 4, Nissan L6, BMW L6.... They ALL were 'Low Z Injectors'... That was the Design of the board. As to if they are OK to use or not....that's been answered at least three times by now.

I got those badges on my 1973. I bought them at Nissan. They were cheap. They did not take special holes: they fit in place of "DATSUN"... You state over and over and over 'it's a true Fairlady' and haven't given a single, solitary iota of PROOF of this! You have a lot of misconceptions about Fairlady Z's. My favorite part of the story is about loading it in a cargo plane and sending it over. Obviously he was a flag-grade officer... Dude, the 'type' has been laid out, the VIN will determine what you have. And I've bad news for you if it's anything other than "S30" or "S31"... Here's one: how are the Road Flares? How about the Road Flare Holders? (Passenger's Kick Panel) --- if you don't got them...running down a tragic road of "not a Fairlady Z"! I vote for Shedding after the VIN is posted. There's nothing here.

Hits for cash and the easy life of passive income forever?

" The roads around So Cal eat cars alive. " Anybody who doesn't believe that look at "The Blue Turd"! It has 110,000 SoCal miles on it...it was shiny once. It was just the roads that killed it! That place in Elsinore is 20 minutes away... I wonder how they would feel with my car sitting in their shop for 7 months while I'm away...

First: There is NO SUCH THING as a "European Fairlady" Everything you mentioned us basically useless to aid in identification of origin. What you need to give us is the Before-Dash Prefix of the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) There are three possibilities you will have: S30-XXXXXX - Pre-Fuel Injection Fairlady Coupe RS30-XXXXXX - European Delivery RHD 260Z (not a Fairlady) S31-XXXXXX - Last Two Years of Fairlady Z production with EFI GREY IMPORTS into UK/Europe by service members got Fairlady Z's into that region. The only actual official Nissan Imports were the 240Z (HS30) and the 260Z (RS30) The Fairlady Z was a Japan Market ONLY car, with a Nissan OHC L20A or L20E Six Cylinder. There are countless other clues, but the first step is a VIN Check. If it's not "S30" or "S31"--it ain't a Fairlady Z. It's just a Euro Delivery 260Z... So what's the VIN?

Uh, yeah.... What are high impedance injectors: 14 ohms... Read the Megamanual, the detailed calculations are in there. You will then search for a month or so for resistors trying to be technically correct, and in the end run the same stock or nearest-to-stock equivalent resistors, as the overhead in the firing circuit is there and being Engineering-Class perfect is not required. The difference between Engineering and Technical implementation of Engineering Principles Apis the application of common sense. There is a reason ECU Manufacturers specify "Low Z" or "High Z" and not "2.3 Z, 3.2 Z...."

25 year old electronics to start with hardly qualifies as "new"! The Nistune interface I've seen is considerably more complex than real configurable aftermarket systems. For the effort, why Bodge something into doing what it wasn't designed to do? The Z32 ECU & Nisstune is marginally comparable to a Megasquirt...but you are still looking at electronics that are almost 20 years old now, and a compromise in what you can do or control.

This seems to have digressed from the stated purpose of the OP as people just can't explain the following: "I'm not trying to start a "why do you need that much" or "I don't think it can be done" battle. What I'm really asking is why have very few people done this? Are there limitations to the block that simply cannot be overcome? Does the head crack at this much cylinder pressure? Or maybe the reason very few people have done this is simply because the L6 croud is more into N/A setups." Facts are that a few people in North America have done it, but it's fairly common in Japan. None of the structural concerns he mentions exist. This comes down to builder's skill, or lack thereof. Tim touched on the reasons, and I simply distilled it to it's essence. To make a 700HP L-Engine, it will not be your casual shade tree goober. You need to KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. This simply is not the case in countries with universal access to drivers licenses, cheap cars, and no technical instruction system set up. In most countries, people doing high performance builds are restricted to those with the skills and the means, not every joe blow with a Sears tool kit who hangs out a single as a "high performance shop." I can show you guys who will insist a Nissan L-Turbo will NOT, under ANY circumstances, hold up beyond 15 psi of boost. They would point to the pile of detonated to death L28ET's out on the scrap pile as proof of their scientific hypothesis. L-Gata Law to them! Uh...yeeeeah! It's just not a platform performance shops will deal with these days. So those trying, may not necessarily possess the skills requisite to accomplish it (as Tim Z says, opposed to a build to only 350HP as a counter example.) I think I distilled it irritatingly succinctly. As is my function. I stand by the reasons as a direct response to the OP's question as stated above, and not anybody else's twisting of my words to suit their situation or take offence.

As for "showing how" you can read the archives, same as everybody else. Many of the builds are chronicled in pulp...and if YOU want to waste YOUR time scanning page upon page of archival material in order to cast pearls before swine....have at it man! I don't have the time for that, but if you do more power to ya! Maybe when I retire and have all the time in the world and. Need to fill my days with "things that keep me busy"... Any good engineer chuckles when somebody comes up with a "new way to make power. On a 40 year old design, as chances are...it isn't new at all!

You're really twisting what I said to make a statement about nothing I ever said. What is at issue is not the CHOICE to use "something different"! It is the ignorant mischaracterisations of the difficulty of doing it on the L-Gata. It's just plain bad information, borne of ignorance. Characterising "nobody building 700 HP L-Engine" as a reason...flies DIRECTLY in the face of the fact that in reality MANY of these builds indeed exist. My problem is the ignorant statement that "nobody" does it (the reasons that follow are simply moot as people DO build them!) Discounting the entire nation of Japan just seems, well, to use the word again: ignorant. It's not about what they choose. It's about bad information. I don't care if they want to go Borgward Power because they had uncle Fritz who's foot was run over by one in the 60's, and they always hated that bastard uncle Fritz. Any reason to chose any drivetrain needn't ever be justified. Lying about the facts because you are ignorant of the builds that do exist, and countless that have existed in the past---THAT is offensive. Does that clarify it better for you? You got my objection to the statements wrong. The offence was taken at the mis-statements, not the choice to go with something else. If you are going to rationalise something, at least be intellectually honest about it and not rely on misrepresentation of the facts in dispute!

For roughly $1,200 you get tuneable EMS, and harness. Nothing used Nissan save maybe sensors... As above, some stuff just eats your time for no reward whatsoever. I have not been impressed with the functionality of Nistune, and relying on old electronics (the newest Z32 Box you might get is what18, going quickly on 20 years old...about the time your modern electronics need "recapping" Frankly, going with a similar-vintage GM system which is "Tunercat" compatible would be a better option simply from a local support standpoint. I was impressed with its user interface much more so than Nisstune.

If you strike the coil, every third strike firing the coil, the injectors should fire. If not, then as stated above check Pin 1. If that input to the ECU is good...your ECU is toast. That said, make sure the wires for the ECU from the battery are correct. One is positive, one negative. They don't both go to hot, and obviously if they're hooked up backwards...poof!