Tony D

You got a lot of misconceptions and myths floating around in there...

Yeah, the pricing is very competitive with the 118mm pattern old school ITB's. The ability to hide the TPS tips it over the top for me. You can run the internal TPS Option for the EMS, and individual TPS on each body to log throttle angle on a datalogger to record synch issues under race conditions...combined with the other datalogging items now offered you could get very precise feedback. Most importantly, they will LOOK period correct (well, actually Hitachi ITB's were on the 71 RAC cars so the original Jenvey fits that lol but nobody really knows that factoid...) I only wish Mikuni had come to their senses and done this! But now you guys understand why I never gave up on those two milk crates of gutted Mikuni Bodies out in my shed... it was just a matter of time before I adapted them as ITB's!

Injectors are nothing special, they are a standard pattern. You can fit 1100's in there if you want!

My thoughts exactly, a set of 55DCOE's would be PERIOD correct on a full on noncrossflow head. The DOHC becomes the entry level set!

This is really cool, and way overdue for the marketplace. Most racers already ran -6 A/N individuals to Weber DCOE's from a fuel distribution log... Cost is comparable to new Webers, and the hidden TPS Option keeps everything away from prying eyes! http://www.jenvey.co.uk/products2/twin-throttle-bodies/dcoe-heritage-bodies/heritage-dcoe-twin-body-40-48mm-tdsxx Crap, thinking about this, I should likely have put this in Fuel Systems Sub Forum. Mods move if you like.

I got a bitchin' shop office trash bin: Cylinder Liner from a 10x10 1/2" Superior Diesel... Have a lamp similar to that made from a thrust collar and third stage pinion out of an Ingersoll-Rand 3C Centac air compressor...customer plasma cut the impeller without a shield and touched off the edge of the pinion...my EXACT phrase was "So you insisted your 30 years of experience was not requiring a $5 sheetmetal guard. Now your insistence on disregarding my recommendations just cost your company $55,000 and gave me stock to build the world's most expensive table lamp!" Gun drilled it, added a copy thrust collar to cover their damage, and clear powder coated it. I wish I had a photo. Everybody in the business says "is that what I think it is?" LOL

Try shocking them in the center with dry ice chilled alcohol. Use a silicone stopper on the non-driven end and fill the guide. It will bubble like crazy and sometimes you hear a distinct "tink" or "pop" - start driving then. Heating around the guide non-driven (top) side with an acetylene torch to expand the aluminum immediately befor e installing the stopper and chilling the interior of the guide (a plastic tirkey blaster works but gets brittle at semicryogenic temps)

Screw a turbo. A 25 shot of nitrous makes that big bottle last a long time! No build necessary. The above being said...where is your horsepower now? I have picked up from 80 hp to 147 by doing a proper stock tune up! People tend to neglect the basics and look for a magic bullet to easily give horsepower... it really goes back to basics. A 20 hp bump from 120 to 140 is a very realistic possibility on an L28 without ever going inside the engine and replacing major parts. Just get what you got adjusted properly!

They are all pretty much the same, any good CNC Shop can take a pair of stock uninstalled guides and make you a couple hundred in any dimension you desire.... Couple it with an oversize reamer and a cheap driver tool with an instruction sheet... Then you, too can offer cheap Manganese-Bronze valve guides on eBay and become the King of L-Guides!

I wonder if we can get that guy turned on to Datsun L's? Hmmmmm

Ahhh were we all to be idly rich with a budget for toys in the millions. I'm sure the guy I watched put his Vintage GT40 into the wall at Spa 6 Hours Historic three years running would not take this long on such a trivial project. Last I heard, his repair bill was just over $1.1 million each time to completely reconstruct a GT40 that went backwards into a wall at speed and broke in two... Custom DOHC Datsun Head? Pfft! Here's $100K let me know if you need more, otherwise I expect it in a month. BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!

They are disturbingly quiet. At the advice of my insurance agent, I'd changed the status of the house to a 'seasonal abode' meaning I was intending for it to be unoccupied for extended periods. The adjuster wanted some 'proof' that I was indeed in the house when I last said i was, and that was a bizarre request IMO given I'd clearly given the company notice it was 'seasonally' occupied. Facebook is as good as anything chronicling my time there. It's one of those things I'll have to follow up on now that this job is over and I have some real time to gather my thoughts. Along with the "Bunghole Boss" from 1999-2002 who pulled a theft by conversion number on my 401K plan and walked off with over $10,000... Uh, I'm not dealing with his excuses. I got a big packet in the mail in response to my phone call.... I'm turning it all over to the SEC and let them flay and skin his corrupt ass!

Piece of Cake, just buy the Datsunworks DOHC head then you only change the timing of the cam that makes a difference, and not both of them....

The world can pretty much go get itself stuffed IMO.

Yeah, nowhere near SSR MkII! Is that a non-us model? No rear corner lights....

Gracias, all.

Someone put this in the shed. Talk about a whining entitled rant. Cost of pressing in Bearing: $10 Cost of having the tools, business license, SKILLS REQUISITE, etc.: $40.00 Get over yourself and get over the idea people owe you their labor for free. EVERY shop i know of in SoCal has the shop rate listed by BAR requirement. You can be ANYTHING in the shop will be a MINIMUM 1 hour labor. It's your fault for not looking at the rate sign and asking if they do partial-hour billing. And just as an FYI, I looked up "FORD FOCUS WHEEL BEARING REPLACE FLAT RATE" 2.5 hours for the operation.. so you asked what the flat rate was, there you have it, that would have been your quote.

I can't win for losing on this one... Got busy at work, come back and sold out. Argh!

Nope, Maybe, if it's MOS in some sort of adhesive or paint-based binder...that would allow it wearing-in but without sticking. What's expensive? Speed costs money, how fast you want to go? Somewhere I had found the BMW Sealant....Darn me not writing it down!!! These guys say they use the same stuff BMW Uses, maybe you can get what it is out of them: http://www.westcoastriots.com/htmlfiles/obd1.html Another who noticed it was sealed with stuff: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1049580-Need-help-with-throttle-body-plate-housing Not a fan of this, but it's being done out there: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=521573 This guy used Enamel Model Paint! I think in TB's the choice of what the sealer is will be less critical than something with fuel passing over it all the time: https://youtu.be/DmBKLefwvV4 The GTR Guys in Canada apparently like the Testors Model Paint as well...

The iginitor is not supposed to really give "performance" as much as "longevity". The CDI that is usually packaged with the ignitor helps with spark saturation, and firing lean or rich mixes at lower rpms, as well as increased spark energy at higher rpms. Now, if you rev over 6,500 regularly, there will be a performance gain from the optical trigger that is not deniable when compared to points. Points bounce, sometimes at the worst possible time.

It's not molybdenum disulfide, which is an oil based anti-seize, but another similar product available from Nissan and BMW for sealing EFI Throttle Plates. In EFI it is critical that all the air pass through the proper metering orifices and control devices. On ITB's this can be critical. If you can't get the plates sealed well enough, you end up with a minimum idle of like 1700 rpms! Carbs are not sealed with this goop, mainly because you will likely goop over the idle and transition ports in the body (though stopping short of that area may be a way to use it. Throttle Bodies are gooped up, almost mandatory on them if you want a 'soft seat' and a plate that doesn't stick. Beware letting plates 'slam shut to seat' as well, that's how they stick, and consequently on re-opening how the throttle shafts get bent in the first place! They will settle closed by light nudging of the shaft and letting them jiggle into place. Then they are prevented from EVER reaching that point again by the idle speed stop screw. Guys who back the ISSS out fully then snap the throttles from the accelerator pedal usually end up with synch problems as the throttle shafts bend torsionally from the throttle plates sticking in the bores when snapped fully shut! Precision is the key here, not my Avtar.

I corrected the autocorrect...Argh.

No light radially, and then brought off-seat by the adjustment screw to obtain curb idle.

Indeed I was...first thing that popped into my mind.... NaNaNa na NAAAAAA!

Storage and Transition House in CA. House is paid for, so in that respect was cheaper than storage unit...but...