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Where do I get apair of those pants? You know...for working on my car

Very nice Terry. 8) The thing that impresses me, is that you have done a tremendous amount of modification with out loosing the Z's lines. More like enhancing them. How many years has it taken to get it this nice?

You used to be able to buy magnetic drain plugs. I use a small speaker magnet on my pan next to the plug. It gets moved to the frame during an oil change. I haven’t caught anything big yet, but I’m still fishing. I found a magnetic plate inside an old M21 years ago. It was full of filings. That could explain why it was apart.

No...front/mid oil sump. Same issue as with the V12 BMW. I could live without a cross member and steering for this motor. The cam lobes look like racing material. Ferrari like to use trumpets on the intakes too. Nice find on the artical.

That sucks Matt! Mike's plan might work. One time I told a really bad ass kid that I was going to send a letter to the prison and tell his dad he had been bad. Maybe he should stay off my property. Got me into a whole new world of trouble. But the kid never came back. You probably just have some big racoon problems. Get a leghold trap.

I had an old supercharged Detroit Diesel that would run backward if the tractor bounced off a dock or a curb. ( Ya I was learning.) 2 forward gears. 10 reverse gears. Dirty air filter. NO oil pressure.

I thought primer was the colour. Can't wait.

Car junkiez. Just one more...then I'll quit...ya ya that's it...

Let 'em drive and they become fanatics.

ha ha ha "George Baris... the party years"

I like mine too. 8)

Is that all it does? Those Tesla guys make the hair on the back of my neck stand up.

Hey Mark: I have to thank you for posting the pics of your P/S swap a while back. It saved me a lot of fabrication time. Those were the “blue prints“ I needed to get the swap done…Thanks.

Having six teenagers I have to agree with Mike. At some point you have to let them make their own mistakes. I have thee car nuts. One is a retail number freak who knows everything about the specifications of cars old and new, another likes to get dirty without any direction, the third is a replace the broken part only type of mechanic. I should open a dealership. To be fair, there is an incredible amount of information out there. One has to decide which information is relevant/accurate to your cause and discard the rest.

The rack and pump I used are from a ’98 Impreza. There is a part number change from 2001 and 2003. I don’t know why for sure. I think it might have something to do with the speed sensing pump. For the tie rods, you can use the ZX inners ( p/n EV 164) and two right side outers from an early Z but you will have to drill and thread the rack ends. I chose to cut metric threads on the Subaru inner tie rods as the EV 164’s were unattainable and use the stock Z tie rods. Use the EV 164 parts if you can get them. It’s an easier way to go. For reference my car is a ‘71

I changed the fluid to an Autopar power steering fluid and the noise is gone. It is now completely silent. I have been driving around all day this P/S system is great. Lots of road feedback too. Definitely worth all the time and effort.

Today I started out by bench testing the O2 sensor. Propane touch and a volt meter. It turned out fine. When I was done I found “ash†from the burnt off carbon and blew it off. This solved most of my problems right there. From there I was able to recalibrate my low end throttle map. It took a few hours and some bloopers by it’s done. I will have to wait until the motor is broken in before taking on the WOT end of the map. I think the main issue was the fouled O2 sensor. On start up there were some leaky injectors to deal with. Most of the fuel got dumped into the manifold and probably plugged the sensor with carbon…but I’m just guessing.

I just came back from gloster pool(sp) EX162 Raining!

I did a split boot on my '93 Jeep G/C last year and it looks close to that one. Take measurements from yours and go the Crapy Tire store. As for the bar, you could relay it up. I could pick it up from someone at the border and pass up north of the city...just a thought.

The computer is an old Accel DFI and uses a narrow band O2 sensor. The car can be run with the lap top on and shows all the sensors’ readings. I was interested in the theory to program some leaner maps to save time. I have to get in the narrow ball park to make my O2 sensor work. Right now things are too far off. The fumes are outrageous. I suspect I will have to lean out the low MAP/ RPM map and enrich the WOT part.

I used the Z shaft shortened about 2 or 3 inches. (NOTE: I lined things up this is not a true measure) I had to purchase the u-joint assemble from the dealer and welded it on. The u-joint assembly is made of hardened stamped steel. These things are pricy from the dealer so try and get one from the P&P. Drill it out to 15mm, slide the Z shaft in and weld. The Z rack shaft and Subaru rack shaft have a different spline count.

Hey Mark: This should help. I use a small offset so my wheels don't hit anything. I does turn sharp!

Hey John: This is the first time I have heard about Nomex being use in an automotive part. How/when did this come about? I wear Nomex suits when I have to do refinery work. I can't picture that suff covered in resin. Nice work on the hood.

I changed over to the STI/WRX power steering rack and pump. On the good side I hauled off on the steering to make the car swing out of the garage and nearly took out the pillar. It is a very responsive system. On the bad side the system hums. It’s not loud but it is there. It is noticeable on even the mildest of turns. But makes no noise going straight. I put in the recommended Dextron II fluid but I suspect it may be wrong. The lines are now shorter and bigger (3/8â€) than stock so I doubt that is the problem. Anyone else had this happen?

If you where to change the volumetric efficiency of your engine by a cam change but everything else remained constant would the car run rich? I changed my cam to a performance cam, the motor now runs very rich. Is this because there is less vacuum and the computer thinks the engine is under (more) load? My original theory was that the computer would run lean with a more efficient cam profile. Any thoughts? I can change my fuel map but how much? (%) In the old days I would just go up a few jet sizes so this seems backward.