jhm

Have you driven it to see for yourself? As I'm sure you know, the TH400 (like the 350) is not an overdrive tranny....3rd gear is 1.0. Which SUCKS on the highway, especially when you've got a torquey motor in a light car, and could cruise along at 1800 rpm IF you only had the right gearing. Maybe that's what the current owner is referring to?? It's not the tires...225/70/14 gives you 26.4" rolling diameter....entirely within the range of acceptable. I guess another possibility is that the tranny is so thrashed that it's slipping horrendously?

Since you've already replaced your hatch latch, I'm assuming that you realize it's adjustable....correct? A major factor in the fitment of the hatch is the hatch weatherstripping. If it's new (or just plain too fat), the hatch will usually not fit flush with the car body. Over time, the new weatherstripping will take a "fit" and the hatch seats better. Similarly, weatherstripping that is worn out or too small will usually result in the hatch sitting low. There's a couple fellows on here that offer nice replacement weatherstripping, or you can experiment with the generic stuff at Pep Boys. Hope this helps.

First off, I'm assuming that you still have the L6 motor in your car? I've done a V8 swap, so I can help with some of your questions; but not all. First: yes, you're correct...the two large-gauge (12 gauge?) wires to the shunt can be spliced together and tucked away. Either of the two small wires can be used as voltage feed to your voltmeter. OR, you can pull your hot voltage (12+V) from some other source of your choice. Second: where do you want to read your voltage from? The battery? Some point on the engine harness? The starter? Wherever you want to take your voltage reading from, is the answer to your question. I relocated my battery to the hatch, so I am taking my readings from a "hot post" in the engine compartment (services all my engine compartment 12V needs). You can even draw your hot voltage from one of the existing hot leads in the ammeter dash harness wiring (make sure it's hot only when the ignition is turned on). Third: There's a ground lead in the Ammeter dash harness plug, which you can use to ground your voltmeter....or you can run a new ground wire to the voltmeter and ground it at the ground of your choice. I'm using the ground in the dash harness and it's working ok, but there's a lot of leads in that 40-year old dash harness that don't do what they're supposed to. Hope this helps. r/John

Another reference for measuring the straps can be found on jtburf's post on page 2 of this thread.....several high-quality pics of where the straps need to be measured. Hope this helps.

Delete the "www.", and the link works. Unfortunately, it's a really small pic (2.2 KB) and not completely useful as a reference. Speaking for myself, I would prefer stainless vs mild....but that's just me. If I'm able to get time, I'll pull my straps and submit measurements. Thx much!

Not sure I fully understand your question, but the main difference in the mustache bars is the spacing of the mounting holes (for the end studs on the differentials) in the bars. Typically no problem to find R200 mustache bars for sale. Hope this helps.

I've got a 1" bar from Suspension Techniques; probably have some end links lying around somewhere, as well. Haven't really thought about it, but I guess I'd want at least $125 plus shipping. Can send pics if you're interested.

Deka Sports Power ETX-30....have had it in for a year, and it's been working well so far. It's nice having such a compact and light-weight battery. There's enough of a drain on it (clock, stereo, computerized fan control) that I need to disconnect it (via battery cut-off switch) if I don't drive the car every few days or so.

HS30- Great info...thx for the background. Seeing the additional images now has my interest piqued!!

Hey....welcome back, Jerry!! I'm still interested; and judging from the response the last several months, I don't think you'll have any trouble selling any quantity you decide to produce. Thx much.

Zkid- You've probably already figured it out, but XENON's basic S130 site has all the FSMs, owner's manuals and a host of other good ref info: http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html Good luck with it.

Have you seen this thread? Lots of good ideas on what can be done under the hood. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/73648-show-off-your-engine-bay-pics-wanted-l-series/ There's also at least one thread here somewhere about "how to achieve the clean look in the engine compartment", but I can't seem to locate it at the moment. You should be able to find it through Search. Good luck with the swap.

Fender mirrors certainly add a snazzy Euro look! However, for anyone contemplating this mod, something to keep in mind.... Unless the mirrors are mounted in such a way as to permit easy removal, they can really be a pain in the *ss when working on the engine. Think about how much time you've spent bending over a fender while working in the engine compartment, and then imagine what it would be like with a mirror mounted on the fender exactly where you were leaning for 2 hours.

When you say your speedo reads 7 mph off, I'm assuming that's at highway speeds (60-65 mph)?? Which means you can calculate the percentage error in your speedo readings. You may want to consider a "Ratio Adapter" vs digging into the tranny and swapping speedo drive gears. Cheap, simple and extremely easy to install.

Another good source for speedo cables and adapters: http://www.transmissioncenter.net/speedometer_calibration_______va.htm?gclid=CI6Btfvnyq0CFWRjTAod0A0bgQ

....and be sure to buy this book...best $20 you'll ever spend! http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html

It sounds like somebody has removed, jumped, or replaced the fusible links in your car. If you follow the 12 gauge wires (usually some combination of red and white) through your engine compartment, you may find that they were replaced with some other solution. Their purpose is to provide a fuse in the major load carrying circuits under your hood. They're pretty old technology, and many people replace them with a more modern solution (e.g. Maxi-Fuse). I replaced mine with 80-amp weather-proof circuit breakers. They're not necessary for your car to run, but they are necessary to prevent a fire or meltdown in case you develop a short. Good luck.

Is this the thread you're looking for? http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/94358-performance-s13-coilover-adaptor-tubes-zccjdm/ Additionally, there's a couple threads in the FAQ section that address strut dimensions, etc. Hope this helps.

bj- Very interesting thread.....I've been following and learning new stuff all the time. Regarding your question on thick vs thin gaskets.....if I'm not mistaken, pre-75 engines used the thin gasket (approx 1/4" thick); 75 and on used the thick one (3/8" - 7/16"). However, this is only true when using the stock factory pan from the same year. If you're using any other pan, these rules may not apply. Don't know if you've already figured out the solution to the oil leak; but if not, the above measurements may be of some assistance. Finally, I'm amazed at how little torque is required for the oil pan bolts (and how easily the pan and seal can get distorted if too much torque is used, even when employing stiffener plates). I think 100-140 inch-pounds is the norm. Good luck, and be sure to post your results! - John

Sounds like a bad switch. Attached schematic will help you test it. Fortunately, if the switch has gone bad, it's an easy fix: http://www.datsunstore.com/product_info.php/cPath/37_267/products_id/1461

Definitely a nice-looking car (heckuva hood scoop!) It's got some nice bits & pieces, too. A 200-4r or 700-r4 would give you highway mileage in the low 20's. Good luck with it!

Admins- Lately, I've been rx'ing the below error every time I attempt to publish an ad. The ad actually gets published, but the system attempts to tell me that there was an error when posting. It results in multiple postings, because I (and several other folks, I've noticed) attempt to repost several times before figuring out that the ads are actually being published!! Is there any way to fix this, or is it a systemic issue? My apologies in advance if this has already been brought to your attention. r/John Meyer ---------------------------------------- Internal Server Error The server encountered an internal error or misconfiguration and was unable to complete your request. Please contact the server administrator, dan@hybridz.org and inform them of the time the error occurred, and anything you might have done that may have caused the error. More information about this error may be available in the server error log. Apache/2.2.3 (CentOS) Server at forums.hybridz.org Port 80 ----------------------------------------

Don't know if this will help, but here's the wiring schematic for the ignition switch. Can't imagine why it's passing juice in the "Lock" position, other than a short in the harness somewhere. Couldn't tell from your video if the switch is mounted on the steering column or just hanging loose....does it do the same thing no matter where the switch barrel is?

When I bought my car, it had a stock shifter w/ TH350. Whoever had installed it used a custom linkage (hard linkage, not cable). It worked ok, but I didn't like the stock shifter so I installed a B&M. Personal preference.

Bumpers plus hydraulic bumper mounts are easily 150 lbs (possibly more), depending on what year the vehicle is. My late '74 260 weighs in at 2820 lbs....SBC motor, bumpers removed, Autosports roll bar (VERY beefy), and relatively heavy street wheels/tires. Wheels and tires are an easy and effective way to drop vehicle weight.