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Bumpers plus hydraulic bumper mounts are easily 150 lbs (possibly more), depending on what year the vehicle is. My late '74 260 weighs in at 2820 lbs....SBC motor, bumpers removed, Autosports roll bar (VERY beefy), and relatively heavy street wheels/tires. Wheels and tires are an easy and effective way to drop vehicle weight.

Trevor- If it's rust-free (or at least mostly rust-free), it looks like a helluva deal. Best way to verify engine mounting is to inspect the motor mount adapters -- JTR mounts are fairly distinctive (http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DAT200.html). Might be useful to ask the owner to see the time slips. 12.60 seems pretty fast for a stock SBC. Good luck...hope it works out for you! r/John

http://arizonazcar.com/cars.html One of the last cars on the page has a cowl-induction cold air intake system. Also, check out Spectre's line of intake plenums. I'm running one of their low-profile hats, and I only paid $70 for it (new) with a little searching on the web.

Non vehicle-specific....just a generic floor mat that happens to fit the Z. According to the name stamped on the mat, the brand appears to be "Type S".

Oh, that's a Honey-Skyline. He don't give a sh*t....he do what the f*ck he want.

I'm using a version of Diamond's 13" spun steel wheels for auto-x. It's a very light setup, but you do have to be very careful when mounting tires due to their fragility. I also just picked up some 15x8 steelies (25 lbs each) that will probably last until even after the cockroaches are dead!

Alan Grove components. Simple, strong and cheap...great customer service too. (Their hi-mount LT-1 brackets may not work in an S30, though.) Be sure to post your results, and good luck!

Not sure what vehicle you're working on; but if it's an S30, typically the pins are at 3 and 9 o'clock. If you inspect the guts of your steering wheel column, you should see the cancelling arms for your blinkers at roughly 8 and 10 o'clock...this will help you visualize where you want the pins on your wheel. Good luck.

Excellent source for S30 wiring schematics: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

Guys- I don't think he's still making these. I've tried calling, e-mailing, and PM'ing....no response. May not even be on this website anymore. Good luck....I'd still be interested if anyone has any luck getting a hold of him. r/John

Something's clearly not working right.... Silly question....are you sure the brakes are fully bled? With good new clean brake fluid? Also, is the clevis pin connection between your booster and brake pedal correctly adjusted? If not, that may be partially contributing to your problems. Finally, no vacuum leaks between your intake and booster? A leak would cause high or erratic idle, and if bad enough, you can actually hear the hissing sound when the engine's running (or right after you shut it down). Good luck and happy motoring. r/John

Bump....still looking.

Do you have the shims in there? They often get removed, lost, or discarded by previous owners. MSA sells a kit for $19: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SBC04/24-5301

Found mine at Pep Boys for $16...hard to beat.

Looking for 4 wheels, to be used as extra set of race wheels on my 260. 15" diameter; 7"-8" in width; 2"-4" of backspacing; 4x114.3 lug pattern. Ok w/ either steel or alloy, as long as they're in decent shape. Am going for cheap here...$150-$200 for the set (so pls don't reply w/ your $1200 BBS modulars!! ) I'm only interested in rims; UNLESS they happen to come w/ decent DOT race tires (245-255). If estimating shipping, pls use Hampton, VA as destination. If you're interested in trading, I have a couple sets of 13" race wheels (w/ Hoosiers). Thx for looking, and happy motoring. r/John

Hey Clive- Water intake could definitely be an issue, but my car rarely (if ever) sees the wet so I'm not too worried about it. I built a radiator air box similar to what you're talking about. Pretty simple arrangement of bottom, top, and two side pieces; but it seems to work pretty well. If I ever get motivated, I'll pull the pieces and make templates to be posted here for others' reference in building their own systems. r/John

It's my SBC setup, but it may help anyway. Using 4" piping, had to enlarge the hole in the driver side of the radiator support. Fabbed small clamp and L-bracket mount to secure the 90 deg elbow to the rad support. Good luck w/ your install.

Porterfield R4-S...just bought a pair of fronts for $59 from LPI Racing (quick shipping too). Great feel, good stopping power, and no squealing. Used to run R4's all the time. Worked great on the track, but I got sick of the long, painful screeeeeecch at every stop when driving on the streets.

Gents- My 260 (late '74 model) seems to be a little on the porky side, too (2810 lbs w/o me)....but it doesn't surprise me, considering the way she's currently fitted out (weekday DD, weekend play-racer): - iron-head SBC w/ TH350, mini-starter, aluminum water pump, aluminum intake, block hugger headers - Autopower roll bar - full interior, w/ Honda Prelude seats (fairly lightweight) - street wheels & tires - steel flares - half-tank gas - bumpers removed (saved 90 lbs!) I drop 70 lbs immediately when putting on the race wheels. r/John

Hey 75zcar- PM'ed you about the 15" Americans....let me know if you've still got them; and if so, asking price? Thx. r/John

I think you've got a couple extra metal washers in there....no need for washers between the poly bushings and the control arm or between the bushings and the sway bar. If you feel that you need to make the "sandwich" tighter, add washers to the top of the stack...directly beneath the threaded nut. Yes, you can replace the stock sway bar end links w/ standard style bolt....that's what most aftermarket suppliers do (e.g. Energy Suspension). Also gives you the option of lengthening or shortening your end links. The stock end links can become difficult if one of the nuts is rusted on or stripped. Hope this helps.

Good point, Rossman....now we have a little more clarity on the situation. I was (incorrectly) assuming that he was having the same problem as previously. +1 on recheck bleeding your system, per TimZ's suggestion. Double-check the adjustment on where your new brake booster connects to the brake pedal (via adjustable clevis pin). As a good starting point, pedal travel should be adjusted via instructions in the FSM. You may simply have too much pedal travel, and may be able to fix with a simple adjustment.

Are you sure?? In some cases, you have to blow pretty hard to "uncheck" the valve (i.e. it can stick slightly in the closed position). If it truly is not allowing air passage in either direction, it needs to be replaced. A stuck check valve will prevent your brake booster from functioning properly. MSA, ZCarSource, BlackDragon, and ZSpecialties all carry a good selection of these kinds of stock mechanical bits: http://www.zcarsource.com/content/p/9/pid/50122/catid/7482_7504/Master_Vac_Check_Valve_70_78_used

Seemingly silly question, but did you remember to re-install the one-way check valve in the original (correct) orientation after installing your new brake booster? If you accidentally left it in the "backwards" (reversed) position that we discussed to test your system, the new booster won't do you any good. It's easy to test the check valve. Hold it to your lips and blow through it. It should be easy to blow through in one direction (the direction you want your intake valve sucking on and putting vacuum on the system), and impossible to blow through in the other direction. Hope this helps.

Does it have any cool parts like this Skyline GTR34 Taillight conversion??? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/96-00-Honda-Civic-Skyline-GTR34-Taillight-conversion-/170679367761?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27bd487851#ht_500wt_1182