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Not sure what vehicle you're working on; but if it's an S30, typically the pins are at 3 and 9 o'clock. If you inspect the guts of your steering wheel column, you should see the cancelling arms for your blinkers at roughly 8 and 10 o'clock...this will help you visualize where you want the pins on your wheel. Good luck.

Excellent source for S30 wiring schematics: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

Guys- I don't think he's still making these. I've tried calling, e-mailing, and PM'ing....no response. May not even be on this website anymore. Good luck....I'd still be interested if anyone has any luck getting a hold of him. r/John

Something's clearly not working right.... Silly question....are you sure the brakes are fully bled? With good new clean brake fluid? Also, is the clevis pin connection between your booster and brake pedal correctly adjusted? If not, that may be partially contributing to your problems. Finally, no vacuum leaks between your intake and booster? A leak would cause high or erratic idle, and if bad enough, you can actually hear the hissing sound when the engine's running (or right after you shut it down). Good luck and happy motoring. r/John

Bump....still looking.

Do you have the shims in there? They often get removed, lost, or discarded by previous owners. MSA sells a kit for $19: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SBC04/24-5301

Found mine at Pep Boys for $16...hard to beat.

Looking for 4 wheels, to be used as extra set of race wheels on my 260. 15" diameter; 7"-8" in width; 2"-4" of backspacing; 4x114.3 lug pattern. Ok w/ either steel or alloy, as long as they're in decent shape. Am going for cheap here...$150-$200 for the set (so pls don't reply w/ your $1200 BBS modulars!! ) I'm only interested in rims; UNLESS they happen to come w/ decent DOT race tires (245-255). If estimating shipping, pls use Hampton, VA as destination. If you're interested in trading, I have a couple sets of 13" race wheels (w/ Hoosiers). Thx for looking, and happy motoring. r/John

Hey Clive- Water intake could definitely be an issue, but my car rarely (if ever) sees the wet so I'm not too worried about it. I built a radiator air box similar to what you're talking about. Pretty simple arrangement of bottom, top, and two side pieces; but it seems to work pretty well. If I ever get motivated, I'll pull the pieces and make templates to be posted here for others' reference in building their own systems. r/John

It's my SBC setup, but it may help anyway. Using 4" piping, had to enlarge the hole in the driver side of the radiator support. Fabbed small clamp and L-bracket mount to secure the 90 deg elbow to the rad support. Good luck w/ your install.

Porterfield R4-S...just bought a pair of fronts for $59 from LPI Racing (quick shipping too). Great feel, good stopping power, and no squealing. Used to run R4's all the time. Worked great on the track, but I got sick of the long, painful screeeeeecch at every stop when driving on the streets.

Gents- My 260 (late '74 model) seems to be a little on the porky side, too (2810 lbs w/o me)....but it doesn't surprise me, considering the way she's currently fitted out (weekday DD, weekend play-racer): - iron-head SBC w/ TH350, mini-starter, aluminum water pump, aluminum intake, block hugger headers - Autopower roll bar - full interior, w/ Honda Prelude seats (fairly lightweight) - street wheels & tires - steel flares - half-tank gas - bumpers removed (saved 90 lbs!) I drop 70 lbs immediately when putting on the race wheels. r/John

Hey 75zcar- PM'ed you about the 15" Americans....let me know if you've still got them; and if so, asking price? Thx. r/John

I think you've got a couple extra metal washers in there....no need for washers between the poly bushings and the control arm or between the bushings and the sway bar. If you feel that you need to make the "sandwich" tighter, add washers to the top of the stack...directly beneath the threaded nut. Yes, you can replace the stock sway bar end links w/ standard style bolt....that's what most aftermarket suppliers do (e.g. Energy Suspension). Also gives you the option of lengthening or shortening your end links. The stock end links can become difficult if one of the nuts is rusted on or stripped. Hope this helps.

Good point, Rossman....now we have a little more clarity on the situation. I was (incorrectly) assuming that he was having the same problem as previously. +1 on recheck bleeding your system, per TimZ's suggestion. Double-check the adjustment on where your new brake booster connects to the brake pedal (via adjustable clevis pin). As a good starting point, pedal travel should be adjusted via instructions in the FSM. You may simply have too much pedal travel, and may be able to fix with a simple adjustment.

Are you sure?? In some cases, you have to blow pretty hard to "uncheck" the valve (i.e. it can stick slightly in the closed position). If it truly is not allowing air passage in either direction, it needs to be replaced. A stuck check valve will prevent your brake booster from functioning properly. MSA, ZCarSource, BlackDragon, and ZSpecialties all carry a good selection of these kinds of stock mechanical bits: http://www.zcarsource.com/content/p/9/pid/50122/catid/7482_7504/Master_Vac_Check_Valve_70_78_used

Seemingly silly question, but did you remember to re-install the one-way check valve in the original (correct) orientation after installing your new brake booster? If you accidentally left it in the "backwards" (reversed) position that we discussed to test your system, the new booster won't do you any good. It's easy to test the check valve. Hold it to your lips and blow through it. It should be easy to blow through in one direction (the direction you want your intake valve sucking on and putting vacuum on the system), and impossible to blow through in the other direction. Hope this helps.

Does it have any cool parts like this Skyline GTR34 Taillight conversion??? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/96-00-Honda-Civic-Skyline-GTR34-Taillight-conversion-/170679367761?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27bd487851#ht_500wt_1182

Seats? Seat belts? Brake calipers for rear disk conversion? A/C system?

...and start out w/ used race tires!!! I've been buying from this guy for a while now, and am extremely pleased. http://stores.ebay.com/Race-Tires-USDRRT?_trksid=p4340.l2563

I would stick w/ the 8.5" (I'm assuming that's what you've got in there now). Will fit better, and should provide plenty of brake assist. The 10" may give you more brake assist than you want. All depends on your personal preference and intended usage. Some guys are running their cars w/ no assist at all. Good luck and be sure to post your results!

Not sure what the chump circuit is, but if it includes stuff like auto-x and track days, here's what I would suggest... If you're really intent on building up this car (and there can be a great deal of satisfaction in doing it yourself, vs buying something that's already finished), I would concentrate on the brakes, suspension, and wheel/tires. You're really wasting time and money if you build a hot engine before getting this stuff sorted out first. You won't believe how much time you'll pick up just by putting on some good race slicks. And if you've never had formal training, spend a few bucks on a good performance driving school. You'll learn how to get the most out of whatever equipment you're running. Good luck and happy motoring! r/John

Sorry, my bad. My car is a '74, and my experience is primarily w/ the later year S30s. Thx for clearing up the confusion, cgsheen!

Sorry guys, but I'm confused. The wiring at the turn signal switch is a simple 3-prong plug. When the switch is in one position, it completes the circuit for the left signal; and in the other position, completes the circuit for the right signal....true? Why can't this functionality be replicated by replacing the turn signal stalk switch with a 3-way toggle switch? Wouldn't the rest of the wiring in the system remain "as-is"? (Again, this solution assumes that the problem lies solely within the switch, and that all of the system wiring is good and can be used as-is.) Again, my apologies if I'm over-simplifying the problem...electrical issues are my weakest area. r/John

Yep. A leak in the booster system (booster, hose, one-way valve) equals a leak in your intake vacuum, which will increase your idle revs. It's a double whammy, because your engine is revving up at the same time that you're trying to brake (which is harder to do because you're losing the brake power benefit of the booster). Before buying any new parts, inspect the entire system, beginning with the booster vacuum line connection to your intake. One easy trick to help zero in on the problem is to reverse the one-way check valve in the vacuum line between your intake and the booster. If it solves the high idle problem, then the problem should be between the valve and the booster; if it doesn't solve the problem, then your leak is probably between the intake and the valve. I had a similar problem with my booster a couple years ago, and it turned out to be a small crack in the hose connection on the booster (below the master cylinder). Was able to easily fix it with gasket sealer. If it does indeed turn out to be a bad booster, I think Centrix is the cheapest remanufactured replacement unit. Here's one for roughly $80: http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/DC/6634-05121002.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_term=1975-1978+Nissan+280Z+Brake+Booster+Centric+75-78+Nissan+Brake+Booster+77+76&utm_content=DN&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base Good luck.