jhm

Thx for posting your results, Mike.....I'm using that exact same low-profile air plenum, and will now definitely need to rethink my intake system!! Would appreciate it if you could keep this thread going as you continue to experiment with different setups. r/John

Hey Dan- I'm experiencing similar but different issue with loading albums. I having no problem creating a new album, but I receive the following message when I try to upload images to the album: "Error The server returned an error during upload". Is this a system issue, or am I doing something wrong? Thx, as always, for your excellent help. r/John Meyer

Hot post in the engine compartment; cheap battery box from Summit with vent hose through fender well. Have since added a cut-off switch to the ground cable.

The original poster was wanting to install new springs, so I'm assuming he was asking how to unbolt the half-shafts from the axle in order to get more droop/extension to remove the rear springs. He hasn't chimed in since his original post 3 weeks ago, so I'm not sure if he ever got the info he needed. I think the thread title "U joints" might be misleading of the original intent of this thread, but you guys have actually led it in a useful direction relevant to the title...kudos!

And don't forget to check all your grounds...they are often the issue when the lights are working sporadically. Most (if not all) of the ground points for the rear lights are in the rear hatch, behind the taillight cover panel.

Read this: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/56254-after-doing-some-reading-i-blocked-off-the-upper-grill-pics/ There's a bunch of info on this topic scattered throughout the various sub-forums. Search on topics like "engine running hot" and "cooling problems" and you'll ferret out most of it. Good luck and happy motoring.

In addition to a fan shroud, you'll need to pay attention to sealing the front end of your car (i.e. the space between your front grill and the radiator). This will ensure that all the air goes through your radiator. Good luck with it.

Even after reading your post a couple of times, I'm not sure if I entirely understand your situation; but the attached schematic should help you troubleshoot your problem...pull your ignition switch and check if it's wired correctly. Good luck with it.

If you're talking about the bolts on the half-shafts that comprise the rear axle, I use combination of open-end and box-end wrenches (13mm, if I remember correctly). It's pretty tight quarters in there, so a variety of lengths and wrench thicknesses can help you find the best combination. It also helps to spin the axle to get each bolt in the optimum position for loosening. And obviously, penetrating oil and heat can help if your bolts are corroded. Hope this helps.

Try here: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SIC07D01 and here: http://www.zcarsource.com/rear-strut-cap-240z-260z-280z_8_56306.html Hope this helps.

Yes, they definitely give you more negative camber. I can't quote definitive numbers, but you can see a noticeable difference. Keep in mind that you'll need to realign your front end after installing these.

The fusible link design used in the S30 is less than optimal for handling today's electrical needs (higher output alternators, electric fans, hi-power stereos, etc). My impression is that most people replace them with newer technology. The "maxi-fuse" solution is a popular upgrade. I replaced mine with 50- and 80-amp circuit breakers. Search "fusible link replacement" and you'll find lots of good ideas.

One suggestion for the rear is to swap out the strut insulators with units from a 240Z....easy to find a used pair cheap. They are shorter than the 280 units, and that change alone will drop your rear ride height 1-1.5 inches. Much better than chopping your springs. Sorry....don't have an easy answer for the front. Many people will tell you to just bite the bullet and install different (i.e. shorter/stiffer) springs. Fortunately, they are plentiful, and cheap if you buy used. Good luck with it....the ride looks nice, and that LS motor should make it rip.

Hope I'm not telling you something you already know; but if you're considering steel wheels, Diamond wheels are hard to beat for price, quality, size availability and customer service. The sizes you're considering would roughly run you $80 each at Diamond. P.S. Don't forget to be very specific about valve stem size and lug size, taper, and pattern when ordering (as well as other options like finish, hole patter, etc). Some of these vendors are so used to dealing with the stock car crowd, they sometime make assumptions about these things if you don't specifically tell them. Good luck.

If you decide to stick with an automatic, don't forget the 200-4R. It's lighter and smaller than the 700-R4; and except for different trans mount location, is almost a plug-n-play replacement for your turbo 350. Built correctly, the 200-4R can handle plenty of HP and torque. Whichever you decide, all these can be found aplenty in boneyards....or you can buy from a vendor. Bowtie is a highly regarded provider of performance trannys and transmission accessories. Good luck with your swap, be sure to post your results, and happy motoring!

Yikes....that IS a nasty mess! Don't know if this will help or not, but XENON carries free FSM downloads for most model Z's. Here's a link to their Z31 page: http://www.xenonz31.com/reference.html Good luck with it.

Most common problem here is the ground. Rear lights have one or more grounds to the body near the taillight panel. Check them all. I've also had problems with the power leads failing. My fix was to run new wires for the hot leads. (40-year old wiring can be very unreliable.) Good luck.

Yes, the spring contact is part of the horn system. Do you have access to a FSM? If not, they can be found for all years at: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

Don't know what kind of steering wheel you're using, but the horn is activated when the horn button completes a ground circuit. Should be one black wire connected (via thin female blade connector) to a rotating disc at the base of the steering wheel. Looks a lot like the black wire at the 4 o'clock on your first picture. Hope this helps.

My link ClassicZCarClub is another popular Z car forum. It has a decent classified section. To beat a dead horse, rust-free is the most important thing to look for if you're planning to keep the car long-term and/or restore or build the car. If you're just looking for something fun to run around in, any car will work. My first Z was a '72 rust-bucket that looked good and ran great....I drove the hell out of it for one summer and then sold it for roughly what I paid for it. Good luck.

I think any headers will have some risk of interference with the steering shaft, depending on your engine mounting....there's such a large variety of mounting kits and positions. It's not a big deal to mod the header collector or downtube in order to obtain sufficient clearance. If you go that route, pls be sure to post your results so that others can benefit from your experience. Thx and good luck.

If you're looking at the various coilover options, don't forget to check out Cosmo Racing coilovers. I believe they offer one of the cheapest and simplest kits. (They also have limitations, like limited total travel.) My link The real answer depends on your desired application. If you truly will only be using the car for "local fun autocrossing", there are plenty of non-coilover solutions that might meet your needs. However, many guys decide to get more serious about racing once they start, and end up having to redo mods in order to make the car more competitive. Good luck.

For that particular application, a hi-amp circuit breaker might serve your purpose better than fuses. Could also serve as a handy battery shut-off switch for your hatch-mounted battery.

Sounds like a FSM would be a big help to you....they can be downloaded for free from XENON: "http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html" The thick (12 ga, maybe?) red/white and all red wires are typically the main power lines in your harness. They serve as the main conduits between alternator, starter, battery, distributor; and feed the various power needs throughout your harness. A common upgrade is to replace the obsolete-design fusible links w/ modern-style heavy-duty fuses or circuit breakers. Attached are a couple of excerpts from various years' FSMs for the interior relay bracket. Replacement OEM relays (both new and used) are widely available from various sources like vehicle part-outs and vendors like ZCarSource, Z Specialties, and MSA Auto. Hope this helps.

Hey Jerry- Any updates? Are you still looking for measurements? Thx. r/JHM