jhm

I don't mean any offense, but there are quite of few threads that cover this....have you seen this Stickie yet: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/ Your R200 mustache bar will not work on an R160 or R180....the holes are different spacing, and it's not practical to try redrilling new holes given the hardness of the spring steel. Fortunately, used mustache bars are quite readily available. Not so easily available will be the new stub axles you'll need. If the R160 in question is an older CLSD model, you can use Datsun 510 stubs, which are becoming more scarce over time. If the R160 is a newer VLSD or Suretrac LSD, I'm not aware of any off-the-shelf solution that exists without custom machining required. Probably not the answer you're hoping for. Have you considered the possibility of using a Subaru R180 LSD? The correct stub axles are available from Wolf Creek Racing for $500....everyone I know that's gone this route has been very happy with the results. Good luck, and definitely post your results after your swap is completed. Thx!

Sorry....can't help you there....BUT, while you have things apart, have you considered using an RT-style diff mount vs the factory strap? 'Tis much more secure, and can be had for just a few shekels. If you'd like more info, just search for "RT mount" in the Drivetrain sub-forum. (My apologies in advance if this is old news to you.)

Also....if you've narrowed down the issue any (e.g. clearly an electrical issue, or a fuel delivery issue, etc), you could post in the appropriate sub-forum. Otherwise, this one is fine if it's more of an open-ended/undefined problem. Good luck -- I'm pretty sure we'll have several people that can help after you've described the problem and its symptoms!

Maybe Admin can jump in here and delete all these empty threads? And if necessary, give Bloodi some assist....his posts don't seem to be posting correctly...maybe a technical issue?

Don't know if this will help you (not sure if you're using the stock radiator, or just the stock shroud), but I'm using a 16" Spal low-profile fan with a Chevy radiator from JTR and a custom shroud I fabbed. I've got one of Spal's programmable controllers running the system. Works great and keeps the motor (SBC) cool in all conditions. If you're running an L28, a single 16" fan should be plenty provided it's properly shrouded and the cooling system is operating properly.

If you don't ever see yourself racing much, then I'd agree that you will probably not need coilovers. I used the Tokico springs and HPs for three years (combination of street and auto-cross) and was very happy with them. They provide an excellent mix performance and comfort. There are many low-budget techniques to further improve performance, like slotting the holes in your strut towers for a tad more negative camber and using the earlier strut top insulators to lower the rear approx an inch. If you still have the stock squishy rubber bushings in your steering and suspension, poly busings are an extremely cheap way to tighten up the ride and handling. If you do decide to get more serious about racing your Z in the future, you will undoubtedly decide that you need more a more performance-oriented setup. The good news is that you don't have to spend a fortune to do it. Used coilovers, springs, shocks, sway bars, etc are always available for much less than buying new. Hope this helps -- happy motoring.

I had wheels like that many years ago; and if I recall correctly, they were American Racing.

Glad it helped.

These may help: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13240-A-spotters-guide-to-Subaru-differentials http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/differential.htm#Which Subarus do I look at to find an LSD http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1969700

Confused here.....are you saying that you've searched for an OEM-like replacement, and can't find one? I did a quick search on several major parts retailers, and many listed in stock. Maybe I'm missing something here? http://www.autopartsexpress.com/beck-arnley-081-0218-drum-brake-shoe?cse=GoogleProductSearch&utm_source=google%2520product%2520search&utm_medium=cse&utm_campaign=Drum%2520Brake%2520Shoe&gclid=CjgKEAjw286dBRDmwbLi8KP71GQSJAAOk4sjlDL6XoplypJYmM-1_sWXqOf3EkkNu0AesGcgVbP5i_D_BwE

Yes, should be more than fine, provided you've got struts (i.e. shocks) that are compatible with your springing. I've got a late '74 with an old iron-block/iron heads SBC that I'm running with 224 lb/in front and back. And previously, I was running Tokico 5022 springs, which if I recall correctly, are 185 front and 200 rear. I daily-drive the car in the off-season, and race it pretty regularly summer and fall...mostly auto-x and closed-circuit HPDE. Good luck with it and be sure to post your results for the benefit of everyone else.

If your heart is set on Tokico struts, there are a couple sets on eBay right now (for a 240).

Rob- You're saying that the inside of your tires is getting worn? If so, it could be due to too much negative camber and/or poor alignment. Check both. Is this occurring on both the front tires and back? If it turns out that you've got a lot of neg camber and that's what's causing the excessive wear, you'll want to dial in more POSITIVE camber....which is somewhat unusual, but not unheard of. Most people installing camber plates (and coilovers) are usually looking for more negative camber. Hope this helps. r/John

You *may* be able to use those plates with stock-sized springs and perches, but you'll get no camber advantage over and above what you can achieve by slotting the three mounting holes in the strut tower. I suppose you would get some additional lowering, as well, if that's your goal. What are your objectives here? There may be other, more effective solutions.

The same manufacturer also produces a "universal" plate for adjustable camber AND caster. I may have to procure a set, just out of curiosity, if nothing else... http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-MK1-Universal-Fit-Adjustable-Caster-Camber-Plates-Datsun-280Z-/161148545667?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item258533aa83&vxp=mtr

Auction ended with 0 bids....not surprising.

Intriguing-looking product. I wonder if they work with stock-sized springs and top spring hat....the language in the eBay ad indicates that they are only compatible with coilover kits, but the pictures imply that they're a 1-for-1 replacement with the stock strut insulator.

Came across this info while researching LSD options....great info with lots of pics...enjoy! (My apologies if this is a repost.) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13240-A-spotters-guide-to-Subaru-differentials

This should help...free FSMs for all years S30. http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

Not sure if I understand your question correctly, but an electric choke is typically grounded to itself (somewhere on the carb body) and the hot lead is connected to a switched circuit. My current Holley (4150) with electric choke works fine for me, but I have had electric chokes in the past that I couldn't get to work correctly and I eventually installed a manual system.

Possibly this thread? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/56254-after-doing-some-reading-i-blocked-off-the-upper-grill-pics/

Good advice, as always, from JohnC....he's the Master! If you are experiencing any interference between the sway bar and the LCA, driveshaft(s), or lower subframe; and don't want to switch to a rear-mounted bar; you can play with adjusting the length of the sway bar end-links to give more clearance where needed. Typically, if you have stock ride height (or even if it's lowered an inch or two), it generally won't be an issue.

Phantom- Nothing wrong with that bar or mounting config. As said by the others, that's the stock mounting point. I used a set-up like that for a couple years (racing) and had no problems. You can also replace it with a thicker aftermarket bar as well, if the stock bar is too soft. The only time you're going to run into issues with that mounting is when the car is lowered sufficiently so as to cause interference between the bar and your lower control arms....that's when it's time to switch to a rear-mounted sway bar. Until then, you're fine.

Have that exact same light in my car! http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/83021-aircraft-style-interior-dome-lamp/

Sounds like the master cylinder and/or slaves may need rebuild? Did you replace the seals on the MC when you cleaned it?