jhm

Tein and Swift springs are the only two readily-available brands I've seen in 2.75" ID. I have no direct personal experience with Tein, but I know that they are often shipped from Japan, and can result in lengthy shipping times. I've owned several pairs of Swift springs, and have always been happy with their quality and price.....purchased my last couple pair from FRSport.com, and was very pleased with their customer service. Hope this helps.

Yep....in addition to the Subie R180s, they came with R160s in 4.44. Seem to be readily available on eBay and the various Subaru blogs. I would think the "Suretrac" or clutch-LSD would be preferable to VLSD, especially in an R160. Occasionally, old R180s pop up on the web in 4.xx ratios, but not too often; and when they do, they are usually snapped up pretty quick. I went with a Subaru R180 (Torsen-style LSD) recently, and am very pleased with the set-up. Here's a couple links that may be helpful to you: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1969700 http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/differential.htm#Which Subarus do I look at to find an LSD http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2597453

Oh man....I had a really cool thread going for "Show me your valve caps". All that work for nothing....way to go, HybridZ. Ditto what everyone else said....thx to the entire HBZ staff for keeping this site going. It's one of those thankless jobs that no one ever says anything about until the (rare) times when something goes wrong. Kudos, guys (and gals...don't mean to exclude anyone!)

Realized the other day that I didn't have any current pics of the car as she sits today, so I took a few next time I was at the track. Enjoy...

Looks like some decent hardware, but you might want to check these out....very similar and cheaper. A few guys here have tried them out with no major complaints that I've seen: http://www.ebay.com/itm/MK1-PillowBall-Bearing-Strut-Upper-Mount-For-Coilover-Kit-Mounts-Plates-240Z-/161203739866?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3A280Z&hash=item25887ddcda&vxp=mtr

Not sure what kind of tires you're considering (i.e. street, R-compound, slicks, etc), but anything in the 225-245 range would work well with 8" wheels. The coilovers will give you more clearance on the inside of the tire vs the stock struts, and the camber plates can give you more clearance on the outside of the tire. It's all a balancing game. Check out the thread called "Show your wheels"...it should give you several examples of what can and can't be done. Hope this helps.

Very cool find. Kudos to you for bringing her back to life!

In my opinion, HBZ is the single best source of high-performance Z car info. But there are several other good sources out there...just google and you'll find. ZCar.com; ClassicZCar.com are just a couple. There are loads of Datsun and Z car forums all over the web. Use 'em all. As long as you're starting with a relatively clean/rust-free shell, the rest will be gravy (relatively speaking, of course!) You'll never be happy with a cancer-ridden shell, and the repairs will cost WAY more than what you would have spent on a clean shell to begin with. Also, the better idea you have for long-term goals early on in the build will help ensure that you don't end up doing and redoing various parts of the build. Good luck with it.

Nope....they're available. These links are to the UK, but I've seen them in the US as well. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Impreza-STi-gc8-gf8-rear-lsd-diff-differential-viscous-r160-4-444-40-9-/261560282421?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3ce6352d35 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Impreza-STi-gc8-gf8-rear-lsd-diff-suretrac-r160-4-444-40-9-/261560293279?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3ce635579f

Yes, I remember that now. Hoping one of the Admins can chime in and enlighten us all.

Is anyone else having problems with the website?? I'm still intermittently getting the above error; and even when the website's working, it's going verrrryyyy slowly. Curious if it's systemic, or a problem on my end.

Site Admin- I'm getting some kind of SQL Error in a couple of the FAQ sections (e.g. "Drivetrain", "Brakes, wheels, suspension"). The specific title on the error is "An error occured with the SQL server" Haven't received this error anywhere else on the site, but wanted to let you know that something was going on with those specific sections. Maybe there's maintenance ongoing at the server level? Thx much. r/JHM

Thx for the correction, JM. The strange thing I found was that Precision Gear's website is still public (with an update of 2013), and it lists 2 units for the R180....maybe they were not keeping it current the last few years?

Update regarding the Power Brute LSD by Precision Gear....does not appear to be available any longer for most of our common applications (R180 & R200). Precision Gear was purchased by another company (Omni-ADA) last year, who specializes in 4x4 off-road equipment, and the LOM55E/L and the LOM59-12 are listed as discontinued models. BUMMER!!! I apologize in advance if this info was posted elsewhere and I missed it. Wanted to make sure it was out there so folks don't waste their time going down rabbit holes. If I'm wrong, someone please correct me (I would LOVE to be wrong, in this case!)

....and they allow you to install camber plates, as well....negative camber is a must for any kind of competitive driving!

Looks like the same one I've got....16" low-profile Spal.

Mark! Good to hear you're still alive, buddy....how's life treating you? TSCC is back at ACU-4 (finally), and still going strong. Let's see some updates and pictures soon. r/John

It's pretty much a bolt-in IF the R160 is an older Subie model that's compatible with the 510 stub axles and IF you're starting with an R180 setup. If you have a newer R160 (which most of the available R160s are) and if your current setup is an R200, it's a much bigger and more expensive swap. Seattlejester's right...there are several threads that discuss just about every possible differential swap for an S30....most are in the "Drivetrain" sub-forums.

I don't mean any offense, but there are quite of few threads that cover this....have you seen this Stickie yet: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/ Your R200 mustache bar will not work on an R160 or R180....the holes are different spacing, and it's not practical to try redrilling new holes given the hardness of the spring steel. Fortunately, used mustache bars are quite readily available. Not so easily available will be the new stub axles you'll need. If the R160 in question is an older CLSD model, you can use Datsun 510 stubs, which are becoming more scarce over time. If the R160 is a newer VLSD or Suretrac LSD, I'm not aware of any off-the-shelf solution that exists without custom machining required. Probably not the answer you're hoping for. Have you considered the possibility of using a Subaru R180 LSD? The correct stub axles are available from Wolf Creek Racing for $500....everyone I know that's gone this route has been very happy with the results. Good luck, and definitely post your results after your swap is completed. Thx!

Sorry....can't help you there....BUT, while you have things apart, have you considered using an RT-style diff mount vs the factory strap? 'Tis much more secure, and can be had for just a few shekels. If you'd like more info, just search for "RT mount" in the Drivetrain sub-forum. (My apologies in advance if this is old news to you.)

Also....if you've narrowed down the issue any (e.g. clearly an electrical issue, or a fuel delivery issue, etc), you could post in the appropriate sub-forum. Otherwise, this one is fine if it's more of an open-ended/undefined problem. Good luck -- I'm pretty sure we'll have several people that can help after you've described the problem and its symptoms!

Maybe Admin can jump in here and delete all these empty threads? And if necessary, give Bloodi some assist....his posts don't seem to be posting correctly...maybe a technical issue?

Don't know if this will help you (not sure if you're using the stock radiator, or just the stock shroud), but I'm using a 16" Spal low-profile fan with a Chevy radiator from JTR and a custom shroud I fabbed. I've got one of Spal's programmable controllers running the system. Works great and keeps the motor (SBC) cool in all conditions. If you're running an L28, a single 16" fan should be plenty provided it's properly shrouded and the cooling system is operating properly.

If you don't ever see yourself racing much, then I'd agree that you will probably not need coilovers. I used the Tokico springs and HPs for three years (combination of street and auto-cross) and was very happy with them. They provide an excellent mix performance and comfort. There are many low-budget techniques to further improve performance, like slotting the holes in your strut towers for a tad more negative camber and using the earlier strut top insulators to lower the rear approx an inch. If you still have the stock squishy rubber bushings in your steering and suspension, poly busings are an extremely cheap way to tighten up the ride and handling. If you do decide to get more serious about racing your Z in the future, you will undoubtedly decide that you need more a more performance-oriented setup. The good news is that you don't have to spend a fortune to do it. Used coilovers, springs, shocks, sway bars, etc are always available for much less than buying new. Hope this helps -- happy motoring.

I had wheels like that many years ago; and if I recall correctly, they were American Racing.