jhm

Hey Jerry- Any updates? Are you still looking for measurements? Thx. r/JHM

Hey Spoony- Willkommen! If you decide to try coilovers, Cosmo Racing seems to provide a good product at fairly cheap prices. http://www.cosmoracing.com/productlist.asp?cid=259 Viel gluck und allzeit gute fahrt!! r/jhm

Welcome home, Stony. Glad you made it back safe, and thank you for your Service. The red car is looking BAAAADD! 9 years is a long time....can't wait to see that monster run! Good luck at the strip.

Sorry this is turning into such a hassle, Jerry....but I think I can say with confidence that we all GREATLY appreciate your efforts!!

The 700-r4 and 200-4r are both very popular set-ups in the V8 Z's. Check out the "Drivetrain" sub-forum... P.S. If you're planning on mostly race duty (especially straight-line stuff), the 400 might be great for you. All depends on your specific application for the car. Good luck.

Have you driven it to see for yourself? As I'm sure you know, the TH400 (like the 350) is not an overdrive tranny....3rd gear is 1.0. Which SUCKS on the highway, especially when you've got a torquey motor in a light car, and could cruise along at 1800 rpm IF you only had the right gearing. Maybe that's what the current owner is referring to?? It's not the tires...225/70/14 gives you 26.4" rolling diameter....entirely within the range of acceptable. I guess another possibility is that the tranny is so thrashed that it's slipping horrendously?

Since you've already replaced your hatch latch, I'm assuming that you realize it's adjustable....correct? A major factor in the fitment of the hatch is the hatch weatherstripping. If it's new (or just plain too fat), the hatch will usually not fit flush with the car body. Over time, the new weatherstripping will take a "fit" and the hatch seats better. Similarly, weatherstripping that is worn out or too small will usually result in the hatch sitting low. There's a couple fellows on here that offer nice replacement weatherstripping, or you can experiment with the generic stuff at Pep Boys. Hope this helps.

First off, I'm assuming that you still have the L6 motor in your car? I've done a V8 swap, so I can help with some of your questions; but not all. First: yes, you're correct...the two large-gauge (12 gauge?) wires to the shunt can be spliced together and tucked away. Either of the two small wires can be used as voltage feed to your voltmeter. OR, you can pull your hot voltage (12+V) from some other source of your choice. Second: where do you want to read your voltage from? The battery? Some point on the engine harness? The starter? Wherever you want to take your voltage reading from, is the answer to your question. I relocated my battery to the hatch, so I am taking my readings from a "hot post" in the engine compartment (services all my engine compartment 12V needs). You can even draw your hot voltage from one of the existing hot leads in the ammeter dash harness wiring (make sure it's hot only when the ignition is turned on). Third: There's a ground lead in the Ammeter dash harness plug, which you can use to ground your voltmeter....or you can run a new ground wire to the voltmeter and ground it at the ground of your choice. I'm using the ground in the dash harness and it's working ok, but there's a lot of leads in that 40-year old dash harness that don't do what they're supposed to. Hope this helps. r/John

Another reference for measuring the straps can be found on jtburf's post on page 2 of this thread.....several high-quality pics of where the straps need to be measured. Hope this helps.

Delete the "www.", and the link works. Unfortunately, it's a really small pic (2.2 KB) and not completely useful as a reference. Speaking for myself, I would prefer stainless vs mild....but that's just me. If I'm able to get time, I'll pull my straps and submit measurements. Thx much!

Not sure I fully understand your question, but the main difference in the mustache bars is the spacing of the mounting holes (for the end studs on the differentials) in the bars. Typically no problem to find R200 mustache bars for sale. Hope this helps.

I've got a 1" bar from Suspension Techniques; probably have some end links lying around somewhere, as well. Haven't really thought about it, but I guess I'd want at least $125 plus shipping. Can send pics if you're interested.

Deka Sports Power ETX-30....have had it in for a year, and it's been working well so far. It's nice having such a compact and light-weight battery. There's enough of a drain on it (clock, stereo, computerized fan control) that I need to disconnect it (via battery cut-off switch) if I don't drive the car every few days or so.

HS30- Great info...thx for the background. Seeing the additional images now has my interest piqued!!

Hey....welcome back, Jerry!! I'm still interested; and judging from the response the last several months, I don't think you'll have any trouble selling any quantity you decide to produce. Thx much.

Zkid- You've probably already figured it out, but XENON's basic S130 site has all the FSMs, owner's manuals and a host of other good ref info: http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html Good luck with it.

Have you seen this thread? Lots of good ideas on what can be done under the hood. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/73648-show-off-your-engine-bay-pics-wanted-l-series/ There's also at least one thread here somewhere about "how to achieve the clean look in the engine compartment", but I can't seem to locate it at the moment. You should be able to find it through Search. Good luck with the swap.

Fender mirrors certainly add a snazzy Euro look! However, for anyone contemplating this mod, something to keep in mind.... Unless the mirrors are mounted in such a way as to permit easy removal, they can really be a pain in the *ss when working on the engine. Think about how much time you've spent bending over a fender while working in the engine compartment, and then imagine what it would be like with a mirror mounted on the fender exactly where you were leaning for 2 hours.

When you say your speedo reads 7 mph off, I'm assuming that's at highway speeds (60-65 mph)?? Which means you can calculate the percentage error in your speedo readings. You may want to consider a "Ratio Adapter" vs digging into the tranny and swapping speedo drive gears. Cheap, simple and extremely easy to install.

Another good source for speedo cables and adapters: http://www.transmissioncenter.net/speedometer_calibration_______va.htm?gclid=CI6Btfvnyq0CFWRjTAod0A0bgQ

....and be sure to buy this book...best $20 you'll ever spend! http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html

It sounds like somebody has removed, jumped, or replaced the fusible links in your car. If you follow the 12 gauge wires (usually some combination of red and white) through your engine compartment, you may find that they were replaced with some other solution. Their purpose is to provide a fuse in the major load carrying circuits under your hood. They're pretty old technology, and many people replace them with a more modern solution (e.g. Maxi-Fuse). I replaced mine with 80-amp weather-proof circuit breakers. They're not necessary for your car to run, but they are necessary to prevent a fire or meltdown in case you develop a short. Good luck.

Is this the thread you're looking for? http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/94358-performance-s13-coilover-adaptor-tubes-zccjdm/ Additionally, there's a couple threads in the FAQ section that address strut dimensions, etc. Hope this helps.

bj- Very interesting thread.....I've been following and learning new stuff all the time. Regarding your question on thick vs thin gaskets.....if I'm not mistaken, pre-75 engines used the thin gasket (approx 1/4" thick); 75 and on used the thick one (3/8" - 7/16"). However, this is only true when using the stock factory pan from the same year. If you're using any other pan, these rules may not apply. Don't know if you've already figured out the solution to the oil leak; but if not, the above measurements may be of some assistance. Finally, I'm amazed at how little torque is required for the oil pan bolts (and how easily the pan and seal can get distorted if too much torque is used, even when employing stiffener plates). I think 100-140 inch-pounds is the norm. Good luck, and be sure to post your results! - John

Sounds like a bad switch. Attached schematic will help you test it. Fortunately, if the switch has gone bad, it's an easy fix: http://www.datsunstore.com/product_info.php/cPath/37_267/products_id/1461