jhm

Yes, they definitely give you more negative camber. I can't quote definitive numbers, but you can see a noticeable difference. Keep in mind that you'll need to realign your front end after installing these.

The fusible link design used in the S30 is less than optimal for handling today's electrical needs (higher output alternators, electric fans, hi-power stereos, etc). My impression is that most people replace them with newer technology. The "maxi-fuse" solution is a popular upgrade. I replaced mine with 50- and 80-amp circuit breakers. Search "fusible link replacement" and you'll find lots of good ideas.

One suggestion for the rear is to swap out the strut insulators with units from a 240Z....easy to find a used pair cheap. They are shorter than the 280 units, and that change alone will drop your rear ride height 1-1.5 inches. Much better than chopping your springs. Sorry....don't have an easy answer for the front. Many people will tell you to just bite the bullet and install different (i.e. shorter/stiffer) springs. Fortunately, they are plentiful, and cheap if you buy used. Good luck with it....the ride looks nice, and that LS motor should make it rip.

Hope I'm not telling you something you already know; but if you're considering steel wheels, Diamond wheels are hard to beat for price, quality, size availability and customer service. The sizes you're considering would roughly run you $80 each at Diamond. P.S. Don't forget to be very specific about valve stem size and lug size, taper, and pattern when ordering (as well as other options like finish, hole patter, etc). Some of these vendors are so used to dealing with the stock car crowd, they sometime make assumptions about these things if you don't specifically tell them. Good luck.

If you decide to stick with an automatic, don't forget the 200-4R. It's lighter and smaller than the 700-R4; and except for different trans mount location, is almost a plug-n-play replacement for your turbo 350. Built correctly, the 200-4R can handle plenty of HP and torque. Whichever you decide, all these can be found aplenty in boneyards....or you can buy from a vendor. Bowtie is a highly regarded provider of performance trannys and transmission accessories. Good luck with your swap, be sure to post your results, and happy motoring!

Yikes....that IS a nasty mess! Don't know if this will help or not, but XENON carries free FSM downloads for most model Z's. Here's a link to their Z31 page: http://www.xenonz31.com/reference.html Good luck with it.

Most common problem here is the ground. Rear lights have one or more grounds to the body near the taillight panel. Check them all. I've also had problems with the power leads failing. My fix was to run new wires for the hot leads. (40-year old wiring can be very unreliable.) Good luck.

Yes, the spring contact is part of the horn system. Do you have access to a FSM? If not, they can be found for all years at: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

Don't know what kind of steering wheel you're using, but the horn is activated when the horn button completes a ground circuit. Should be one black wire connected (via thin female blade connector) to a rotating disc at the base of the steering wheel. Looks a lot like the black wire at the 4 o'clock on your first picture. Hope this helps.

My link ClassicZCarClub is another popular Z car forum. It has a decent classified section. To beat a dead horse, rust-free is the most important thing to look for if you're planning to keep the car long-term and/or restore or build the car. If you're just looking for something fun to run around in, any car will work. My first Z was a '72 rust-bucket that looked good and ran great....I drove the hell out of it for one summer and then sold it for roughly what I paid for it. Good luck.

I think any headers will have some risk of interference with the steering shaft, depending on your engine mounting....there's such a large variety of mounting kits and positions. It's not a big deal to mod the header collector or downtube in order to obtain sufficient clearance. If you go that route, pls be sure to post your results so that others can benefit from your experience. Thx and good luck.

If you're looking at the various coilover options, don't forget to check out Cosmo Racing coilovers. I believe they offer one of the cheapest and simplest kits. (They also have limitations, like limited total travel.) My link The real answer depends on your desired application. If you truly will only be using the car for "local fun autocrossing", there are plenty of non-coilover solutions that might meet your needs. However, many guys decide to get more serious about racing once they start, and end up having to redo mods in order to make the car more competitive. Good luck.

For that particular application, a hi-amp circuit breaker might serve your purpose better than fuses. Could also serve as a handy battery shut-off switch for your hatch-mounted battery.

Sounds like a FSM would be a big help to you....they can be downloaded for free from XENON: "http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html" The thick (12 ga, maybe?) red/white and all red wires are typically the main power lines in your harness. They serve as the main conduits between alternator, starter, battery, distributor; and feed the various power needs throughout your harness. A common upgrade is to replace the obsolete-design fusible links w/ modern-style heavy-duty fuses or circuit breakers. Attached are a couple of excerpts from various years' FSMs for the interior relay bracket. Replacement OEM relays (both new and used) are widely available from various sources like vehicle part-outs and vendors like ZCarSource, Z Specialties, and MSA Auto. Hope this helps.

Hey Jerry- Any updates? Are you still looking for measurements? Thx. r/JHM

Hey Spoony- Willkommen! If you decide to try coilovers, Cosmo Racing seems to provide a good product at fairly cheap prices. http://www.cosmoracing.com/productlist.asp?cid=259 Viel gluck und allzeit gute fahrt!! r/jhm

Welcome home, Stony. Glad you made it back safe, and thank you for your Service. The red car is looking BAAAADD! 9 years is a long time....can't wait to see that monster run! Good luck at the strip.

Sorry this is turning into such a hassle, Jerry....but I think I can say with confidence that we all GREATLY appreciate your efforts!!

The 700-r4 and 200-4r are both very popular set-ups in the V8 Z's. Check out the "Drivetrain" sub-forum... P.S. If you're planning on mostly race duty (especially straight-line stuff), the 400 might be great for you. All depends on your specific application for the car. Good luck.

Have you driven it to see for yourself? As I'm sure you know, the TH400 (like the 350) is not an overdrive tranny....3rd gear is 1.0. Which SUCKS on the highway, especially when you've got a torquey motor in a light car, and could cruise along at 1800 rpm IF you only had the right gearing. Maybe that's what the current owner is referring to?? It's not the tires...225/70/14 gives you 26.4" rolling diameter....entirely within the range of acceptable. I guess another possibility is that the tranny is so thrashed that it's slipping horrendously?

Since you've already replaced your hatch latch, I'm assuming that you realize it's adjustable....correct? A major factor in the fitment of the hatch is the hatch weatherstripping. If it's new (or just plain too fat), the hatch will usually not fit flush with the car body. Over time, the new weatherstripping will take a "fit" and the hatch seats better. Similarly, weatherstripping that is worn out or too small will usually result in the hatch sitting low. There's a couple fellows on here that offer nice replacement weatherstripping, or you can experiment with the generic stuff at Pep Boys. Hope this helps.

First off, I'm assuming that you still have the L6 motor in your car? I've done a V8 swap, so I can help with some of your questions; but not all. First: yes, you're correct...the two large-gauge (12 gauge?) wires to the shunt can be spliced together and tucked away. Either of the two small wires can be used as voltage feed to your voltmeter. OR, you can pull your hot voltage (12+V) from some other source of your choice. Second: where do you want to read your voltage from? The battery? Some point on the engine harness? The starter? Wherever you want to take your voltage reading from, is the answer to your question. I relocated my battery to the hatch, so I am taking my readings from a "hot post" in the engine compartment (services all my engine compartment 12V needs). You can even draw your hot voltage from one of the existing hot leads in the ammeter dash harness wiring (make sure it's hot only when the ignition is turned on). Third: There's a ground lead in the Ammeter dash harness plug, which you can use to ground your voltmeter....or you can run a new ground wire to the voltmeter and ground it at the ground of your choice. I'm using the ground in the dash harness and it's working ok, but there's a lot of leads in that 40-year old dash harness that don't do what they're supposed to. Hope this helps. r/John

Another reference for measuring the straps can be found on jtburf's post on page 2 of this thread.....several high-quality pics of where the straps need to be measured. Hope this helps.

Delete the "www.", and the link works. Unfortunately, it's a really small pic (2.2 KB) and not completely useful as a reference. Speaking for myself, I would prefer stainless vs mild....but that's just me. If I'm able to get time, I'll pull my straps and submit measurements. Thx much!

Not sure I fully understand your question, but the main difference in the mustache bars is the spacing of the mounting holes (for the end studs on the differentials) in the bars. Typically no problem to find R200 mustache bars for sale. Hope this helps.