stravi757

kept stock and properly maintaned. very reliable.

Also interested to hear more about this, looking forward to seeing pics of install and what the final price will be.

That compression seems too high, I wouldn't be surprised to find excessive carbon buildup on the valves and pistons. As for the 120psi cylinder, did you check the valve clearance on it?

Still sounds like your problem is the AFM. had the exact same problem before. If memory serves correct, its called a dead spot in the AFM.

There is just a down pipe after the turbo, nad it didnt smoke the first time i started it up, now it smoke immediately when I start it. Maybe it was possible I used the wrong head gasket and its blocking some oil passages? The cylinder wall had no rust at all on them when I took the head off. And I thought 140 psi was very close to the sock CR for a turbo engine?

ive run the engine for about 25 minutes so far under no load. i guess I could drive the car a few hundred miles to perhaps properly seat the rings, but I would like to try and pinpoint my problem before doing something like that.

So heres the story. I picked up a 280zxt engine from the JY a while back that looked like it was rebuilt, the engine was super clean, all the gasket were new ect.. Before I went to install it i Did a compression test to find 0psi on every cylinder. I started taking everything apart and found that the timing chain had been installed incorrectly. I put it back on right. put a new headgasket, did a compression test and got 140psi across all cylinders. So now I put the engine in the car, wire it, and it fires first try and the engine is running real smooth, idle was perfect ect. But within a minute or so heavy smoke is coming from the exhaust. I let it keep running but the smoke just persists. the smoke is constantly coming out whether you rev it or let it idle. When you let it idle for a while then rev it, lots and lost of thick smoke will come out. I checked the PVC, no oil. I checked the J-pipe and throttle body, no oil. check the plugs and they all have oil deposits on them and numbers 1 2 and 5 are wet. I switched the turbo just for he hell of it, no difference. So I figure if the oil isnt coming through the intake it has to be coming from the valve guides/seals or rings. My question is can the oil be coming from the rings even with good compression? or could it be the valve seals? And how much smoke would there be if it was the valve seals, because the engine is making ALOT of smoke.

The engine will never run right. Use the 280zxt electronics.

Do whichever you think you will enjoy more. Do you enjoy driving a car hard and having fun with it, or do you like to have a car that you can appreciate to look at and go pick up some groceries with. Or do you want something in between.

I cant believe I havent seen this thread before. Great find man! Bummer about the quarter panel though. Thats pretty sick though that your going turbo on a Black Gold model. How far along are you with the wiring so far?

I dont understand why you would need to fill the tank up. A few gallons should be enough. Ive drained my gas tank before and didnt have this problem.

I actually think the a 2+2 s30 is a really cool looking car. They just suck because the s30 coupe exists.

Just thought I would add this. Maybe the problems are related? Before I did my turbo swap, my fuel pump was so quiet you could barely hear it. As soon as I swapped the 280zxt electronics my fuel pump made a noticeable noise(nothing extreme but you knew it was there). I went back to NA and the fuel pump went back to being quiet. I checked the voltage at the pump when it was turbo and it was reading 14.xx Always wondered why this was, maybe it has to do with something electrical?

I went as far as acquiring the flares and rotas wheels(17x9.5) and backed out. It does look nice, but when it came down to it i realized I wanted to use my car as a DD and flares dont fall into the category of a DD IMO. I also didnt have it in me to cut my perfectly good quarter panels. I came really close to doing it but decided that it wasnt the look i wanted to go with in the end. I like the classic body lkines on the car and didnt want to riun them. Maybe my next Z I will do fender flares...

Stock l28 in a 240z done right(full efi swap, no more carbs)only makes it worth a few hundred more dollars in my book. Cant say how it feels to drive since I dont have a 240z with one, but I'd imagine its pretty snappy being around 350-400 pounds lighter.

pm'd

I actually would have been surprised if he noticed the vacuum change. I made them blend in very well, he would have to of been looking underneath the intake manifold to find it, and even still I really doubt he would have seen the difference.

I passed! And didn't switch cats either Here were my numbers this time. 15mph-%co2: 14.5 %o2: 0.4 HC: 123 CO%: 0.15 NO: 266 25mph-co2% 14.6 %o2: 0.4 HC: 75 CO%: 0.13 NO: 232 Heres everything I changed since the last test. Changed oil, I ran sea foam in the oil before i changed it, also ran some in the intake manifold. New spark plugs(Kind ray recommended). Re tarted my timing from 22 to 18 degrees. I drove my car like hell around the neighborhood and WOT pulls on the freeway, probably did about hour of driving in total. And the Big thing I did that I think reduced my NOx nearly by 1,200 was I disconnect the vacuum line going to the EGR valve. Instead I took the vacuum line from the purge valve which goes to the throttle body. I put a T connection and also used that vacuum source to my EGR valve. This way the Egr valve will open as soon as you start to open the throttle. Not recommending this but its just what I did and it looks like it worked. It was dogging my engine a little bit but other than that it looks like it helped bring my nox down to say the least. Pretty happy, unfortunately the DMV is closed now so ill have to wait until Monday, But thanks for all of your help guys, happy to finally be past this smog stage.

Yes, 82-83 will have the CAS inside the dizzy. They look much different from the 81 dizzy. If you pop off the cap you will see a metal plate with 360 slits in it, the 81 dizzy doesn't have this. Cant say which is "better" because I dont know for sure, but my guess would be there is no difference assuming your just using the 82-83 dizzy as your CAS and not for spark. It will make a cleaner install to go with the CAS on the crank pulley, but that's about it I think.

let us know how they fit when you get them on!

double

Rayaapp2- I have been reading through the Fsm, don't want you think Ive been ignoring that. I forgot to mention, the tech did pump vacuum in the EGR valve to verify it was working. It didn't stall the engine but it came close to. Should I pull off the valve and maybe clean it? So my A/f ratio is looking good then , So I think I will drop my timing a few degrees, the tech was really having trouble seeing exactly where it was through all that mess of things under the hood. So I bet i can get away with it without him noticing. Question is how much retarding will give me the best smog performance? Seems like retarding it will help reduce all of my emissions, but how much is too much. Im hoping that changing my oil, plugs, cap, rotor, cat, and air filter will help reduce my HC enough. But Do you think changing my cat(which we don't know for sure is the cause yet) and pulling back the timing will be enough to get it to pass on the NOx at the 15mph test? Why is it so high at 15 then so low at 25? is it because of the EGR valve, or cat warming up, or both? Also I keep reading about people saying running some alcohol in the tank made them pass. Is this true that it works very well, Do you guys think I should try it? Thanks for the help so far guys, I really appreciate it.

Okay well heres my list of things to do before my next smog attempt. Sound good so far? any suggestions? Retard timing switch cat with my other 280zxt change the oil+filter Buy new spark plugs and gap them new air filter new pvc valve switch VCM with my other 280zxt Run some seafoam in the tank and manifold, and oil before i change it.

Well the reason I brought it up was I also tested it on my other 280zxt(that just passed smog) and It was reading vacuum at the lower rpm range. How likely do you think my problem is a clogged up cat? If you really think it'll help, ill swap in on my car for sure, in fact I should probably just try swapping all the smog equipment from my other car.

He was just revving it because he thought the engine was still cold since my water temp gauge isnt accurate. Is that really not allowed?