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stravi757

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Everything posted by stravi757

  1. I would strongly recommend if you go turbo to use the 300zxt ecu and MAF. I would never put the stock electronics back in my turbo swap again. its runs way better then it ever did with the AFM, plus warm ups/cold starts are so much better. And its very easy to install, I did it in under an hour.
  2. Not bad, I would be pretty happy getting paid out that much and getting to keep everything still.
  3. I had the head resurfaced before I put the block together. I am pretty sure I put the chain on correctly also. And I checked my brake fluid, its all there
  4. That makes sense. Although I did have this white smoke problem with my other turbo as well, but I guess I cant really vouch for either turbo. So I guess rebuild this turbo(wont hurt to do it either way), but Even if the seals are bad would this contribute to my major powerloss?
  5. lol, Sorry forgot to mention that , I took off my exhaust and just had the MSA down pipe on, no difference really.
  6. I to have changed the oil pan and the clutch with the engine in the car(did A clutch a couple weeks ago under a car), but i prefer to just take the engine out. It takes me about the same amount of time, and I hate being underneath the car doing both of those tasks. You mentioned removing the cross member, Did you remove it to change the oil pan? Like I said, My boost gauge Is reading 7psi and boost comes on just a little after 3,000 so I dont think its the waste-gate. Also, forgot to mention I have tried using a different turbo.
  7. To start off I would first like to say my engine (l28et in 280z) runs pretty well. It starts up perfectly everyday, Idles perfectly, drives great for Normal driving. I trust it to start and run more than my daily driver. But my car just does not have the power it should, It is just as fast as a NA 280z, no faster. I cant figure out why my car isnt pulling like it used to on my previous turbo swap. Im running the 300zxt ecu If I rev my engine in neutral to high rpm's, a bunch of smoke will come out of the exhaust, it smells burnt. I cant say if its running rich or burning oil. and honestly the smoke isnt black or blue, ITS WHITE as hell! but I am %100 positive its not coolant, and it doesn't smell sweet. When looking at my plugs I also cant tell if it is carbon/unburnt fuel on them or oil. If I were to guess, I would say unburnt fuel but when i take my spark-plugs out, the threads on the cylinder head have like a puddle of dark fluid in them and the threads on the plugs also are wet with what looks like oil( The valve cover gasket is NOT leaking at all). But the tips of the plugs are tan and show no signs of oil on them. Also Another reason I believe it could be burning oil is my oil levels drop rather quickly, but its hard to say because my oil pan does leaks pretty bad(have another one im going to be putting in). I have done a PROPER compression test on the motor and my numbers were 147 EVEN! across all 6. The Head was rebuilt( valve job, resurfaced, and valve seals replaced) no more than 1,000 miles ago. My short block had a supposed 80,000 miles on it and it looked to be in great shape, walls were perfect, no metal shavings in the pan. I have literally checked everything I can think of and am out of ideas I have looked at everything and cant find any problems anywhere. Things Ive done/checked All new NGK's Plug Wires cap and rotor new CHTS new o2 Tried a few different ecu's tried several Maf's new pvc all injectors are clicking fine checked fuel pressure went overkill on all grounds new alternator switched out fusible links with fuse box checked everywhere for vacuum leaks/boost leaks relighted nuts and bolts everywhere boost gauge reads 7 psi tried three different coils/power transistors timing is set to 24 using 91 octane This is all I can think of right now but im sure theres more. So what could be causing my car to not have all the power it should on boost, Its hitting 7psi but the power just inst there. I would like to figure out what the problem is before I pull my engine out to change the clutch and oil pan.
  8. It depends on what you have done to it and what condition its in. It also probably matters where you live because I would never pay very much for one because I can go to any junkyard any given day and pick up as many as I want living in California for pretty cheap. I dont know how hard it is to come by these engines in NC. Maybe you can get like $300 for it, but thats juts a guess.
  9. A little off topic, but I was reading on some other forum, and the people who used the RB26 and the 2jz said that your better off using the 2jz for many reasons from availability of parts to power and performance. They said they have used both and in the end the 2jz was better overall except in that the Rb26 had forged pistons stock. They said that is the only big thing it really had on the 2jz.
  10. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/34469-a-quick-fi-and-ignition-280zxt-to-s30-turbo-swap-guide/
  11. ya, do that. And keep reading the turbo swap guide until it makes sense, its pretty easy to follow.
  12. Put the oil pump and shaft back in properly. Then go from there.
  13. where are you stuck at, it really isnt very difficult. you can do it, just take your time with it.
  14. That sucks! You just gonna buy another shell and swap everything back In?
  15. He's right, The same thing happened to me, You have to pull the tranny back out, take off the clutch/flywheel. There will be a spacer plate on the end of the crank that you will need to pop off. Sucks lol.
  16. tahts not an FPR, I believe its called the fuel damper.
  17. you need a resistor for the tach. Have you checked for any leaks in your I/C piping.
  18. How much do they cost. It locks pretty cool.
  19. SO maybe it was just bad, why dont you try putting a different one in?
  20. THE SONG IS AWESOME LOL.
  21. Ya, thats probably a 77/78 ecu. You need a 75/76 one.
  22. Define theft, I dont consider that stealing, I consider it saving antique parts from the trash. Plus how much of the tax payers money has been given to the banks in bailouts. They practically owe it to you.
  23. If I were you I would just go take some parts off of it anyways, what are they gonna do, pursuit you on some parts you took off a car they were about to throw away.
  24. your supposed to switch injector clips 2&5(will still run fine if you dont) but other then that your good to go.
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