cygnusx1

Yeah, put the crank on TDC and the cam mark on the mark and install chain and sprocket. Make sure the drivers side of the chain is taut and the tensioner is in place. Chain marks mean nothing as long as the cam and crank are in the right place relative to eachother.

It's really simple when you take one apart and manually make it "work". Put torque into it, and the left and right output shafts get friction between them. I had my dad apply torque to the input shaft with a wrench, I could feel the friction by turning the left and right output shafts opposite each other by hand. The more torque my dad applied, the more difficult it was to twist the side shafts opposite each other. When dad input no torque, or negative torque, the diff opened up...to it's pre load setting.

Did you use a wedge to keep the tensioner from extending? If it extended and popped out of it's cylinder, you will probably need to pull the timing cover off. You can always try to gently pry the tensioner back into place from the top, but that is a longshot.

Not the rubber mallet. Use the steel mallet. This requires IMPACT and VIBRATION. I just went through this today. However, the rest of the engine was going in the trash, so pounding so hard was easy on my stomach. An impact gun might be a more sanitary approach.

Nice. Can't wait to have another awesome Z in the neighborhood.

I bit the turkey and bought a new unit from Rockauto. $75. It worked.

Just be sure to thoroughly inspect the welds for pinhole seepage after a few days of use. I am 2 for 2 with Champion radiators off of ebay having pinholes in the weld. Fixed them with a small file and a pencil point dab of JB Weld.

It has been at least 12 years since I drove a stock EFI S30. I have recently driven stock ZXT motors, and with only two data points, not really a good chart, I feel like I am driving an engine filled with molasses on the way up, and dealing with intake leaks on the way down. Disabling the various "wind intstruments" from the ZXT intake manifolds improved the situation on decel greatly. The light flywheel helped much as well. I was well versed in the 280Z EFI back when it was my daily driver, turned weekend warrior for about 10 years. The BCDD valve definitely "goes bad", but it could be corrected or eliminated to improve the engines feel. The L28 was way more natural feeling than the L28ET.

You need to spend some time searching L28ET swaps on here...or fork over $10k. Your choice really.

Sorry for all the thread jacking! But IMHO an engine that drops revs in between shifts, to about the proper amount for the next upshift, in about the time I need to shift; and a motor that promptly revs up with a heel tap, to the proper rev for a downshift, is fun. Having rpm/s highly variable depending on where you are on the tach, is a bit annoying.

When I use the term responsiveness, I refer to the engine's rev up as well as rev-down characteristics. There are plenty of devices in the factory EFI that keep the engine from dropping revs too quickly, for emissions purposes. Sporty driving , in my book, requires some engine braking, which is barely existent in the factory EFI setups. Call me old school.

The reason you use the key, which is really a dedicated socket, for those tuner lug nuts is that they are made very small so that you can fit the socket over them, inside the holes of the rim. Use some anti-seize, and proper torque, and you won't break the socket.

Alot of the engine response strangness comes from emission control devices like the BCDD valve in the older EFI cars. The turbo L28ET engines are riddled with vacuum controlling devices that really kill the engines response. You see, by making the engines "sluggish", they run far cleaner, from an emissions standpoint. When you bypass and disable all those devices "shave the intake", the engine does respond better, but they don't run as clean anymore..not that it matters to me. I fully concede with the flywheel, exhaust, and cam, to improve response. My point is that a snappier engine is more fun to drive...and you are after more fun, less power. Focus on "snappy".

Someone is not aware of all the lawyer sharks out in the real world...wow. Scary. When I bought the Sportmax wheels through the group buy here, they came with a set of tuner lugs nuts that are really nice. I would love to get another set for my other Z. They had color options available and they have been on and off several times with not a nick in them yet. They look like these: http://thmotorsports...CFUnc4Aod5h64PA

I enjoy driving my triple carb stock L28 in my resto-mod 240Z (maybe 140hp), just as much, if not more than my L28ET 280Z MSII with 300+hp. Just sayin'. Both are super reliable as casual drivers. Both get low 20's mpg, the way I drive on the street. The stock EFI/ECCS never really got me excited. Although they run great with stock N/A EFI, the motors feel so "plastic" to me. They rev slowly, they come off-rev, very slowly, there is negligible engine braking, the sounds are not right. These are all missing things, that to me, make a sports car, fun to drive.

Air amplifiers have been commonly available for many years. I used them in the manufacturing industry for all sorts of things, like moving particles, cooling components... Dyson just started marketing the technology in their blade-less cooling fans. Yes, they might move more air but energy is never free. http://www.amazon.co...17933634&sr=8-2

I ran an early 80's 200SX trans 5-spd in my Z for many years. It has a really low 1st gear. Good for tire smoke. I just had to install my original four speed bell housing.

Sounds great Mark. It definitely wants to rev, and it seems to kick you in the pants when you hit the powerband. On a slight counterpoint, it's easier to make carbs that are too small run smoothly, than the reverse. A carbs worse enemy is slow air.

My L28 with triples, headers, and the MSA premium 2.5" system makes the sound. I always called it "exhaust baffle sound" It is a nasty sound, in a good way.

The factory compressors can take a beating. The lighter Sanden's are not as tough in my experience.

Wow, it has been that long already!? Well you definitely got some fun out of it...and some wildlife too.

I successfully run R134 in the factory system in my 76. If the system is in decent shape, why change it out? EDIT: Oh, I guess you have no A/C parts in the car right now.. ?

Wow. I bet your heartbeat was up, just a little. Got video or did the cops take it?

Funny how no matter where you are, there is always something cheaper. Don't worry Tony, 3rd world ain't too far away now.

Trouble is, it's not my car and I don't want to let it go unless I know it's working. I did panic stops and the front lock up. No sign of locking from the rear. I can try to lock up all four wheels but I am afraid of doing this on the street and/or flat spotting tires. I will just inform the owner and keep in touch with him I suppose.