cygnusx1

Boy you are OLD! At least you're wise too...or was that wise a$$.

I think they did render a Twin overhead cam version but it adds a ton more parts. I think their primary focus is on getting high efficiency with low parasitic losses to get gov't backing or funding. I can see this engine becoming very efficient but also being able to be produced with a focus on high torque and power to weight ratios. Great for small planes....and hotrods. Notice they did show a version with counter-rotating lobes which load both sides of the "control arm cam followers" front to back, evenly, to eliminate the bending moment in the arms. This, in my eyes, makes this a VERY stout motor. The pistons also won't rock in the bore very much if at all, increasing the longevity of the pistons and bores. The weak point is that due to the offset of the front to back lobes, there is a twist force induced on the "connecting rods" These connecting rods will need to be very stiff in the twist axis. I can even see this motor easily becoming a diesel.

Similar to a radial layout but looks like it would be extremely strong and efficient. This looks like it's production ready. The X-4 from down under. Rotary meets pistons. http://www.revetec.com/ http://gas2.org/2008/06/26/low-cost-gas-engine-innovation-doubles-fuel-economy/comment-page-6/ I want to be the first to suggest a turbo with 30psi boost! It looks plenty tough enough to take it. This was back in 2006....http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111578 seems like a lot of work has been done since then.

Fel-Pro makes a metal core head gasket for the L28's. Not sure of the compressed thickness though. For the 81-82-83 part number is Fel-Pro 8799PT. It is MLS construction but not sure if it's available in overbore. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FEL%2D8799PT&autoview=sku

Paul (Braap) also confirmed my suspicions, that the particular gasket I have from Fel-Pro already has some sort of "sealant" on it, so I won't use copper spray. Thanks Mack. EDIT Part number is 8799PT Fel Pro

For those of you that don't get to see the Northeast Autumn transformation, this video captures the essence.

Rather than begin a new thread if I don't have to I will state my learnings and then ask my question here. Yes, match the gasket to the year of the block. This seems to be the general consensus everywhere. Now my question: I have used the Nissan gasket with good luck with a few coats of copper spray on each side just before assembly. I am about to install the above Fel-Pro gasket for the 83 bolck. Part number 9799PT. It is a metal layer gasket with some sort of "printo-seal" material coating both sides. It feels like a shiny, sticky, "rubberized" layer over the gasket. It feels like it's a silicone material with raised ribs to seal the timing cover area and the oil passage. Should I use the copper spray on this gasket or not? I am going to try to pose the question to Fel-Pro but maybe you guys already know the answer.

I think Tub80z hit the nail on the head here! Dont' cut until you know why you have to cut them in the first place.

Cutting rotors on the car is the best way. The only place I knew that did it was the BMW dealer I worked for in the Bronx. F&S motors. Not sure who does it nowadays. I think if you start with new rotors and they are off center (lateral runout) by 0.006" or more, after you install them, you should figure out if your hub, hat, or rotor is off before you cut anything. I shimmed my hats to near perfect and it's been great so far with NO cutting nothing.

I'm also young and like the Countach.

McMaster.com Use stainless steel shim washers.

Lust for the Countach is age dependant. Guys in their mid to late 30's and early 40's remember "Cannonball Run" and the Countach posters with the girls leaning on it. Usually it was on the wall next to the Led Zeppelin black light posters. You had to be there to understand. Of course beauty is always in the eye of the beholder.

I bet you could also put the smoke machine inside the car and turn on the fresh air blower to see where the smoke leaves the cabin just as well. Eliminating the vacuum cleaner and cardboard. Or try both ways to get every nook and cranny sealed up.

How did he paint it down there with almost no windows? He probably brought the panels outside to paint them I'm guessing. Set your mind to it and you'd be surprised what you can do.

Not sure, but mine might be behind the bottom part of the "N" in Nissan. Maybe....but I don't think so. Where's Waldo?

Corpcrim, you need to start making money off of your stuff, if you don't already. Very professional work.

X64v, I am not so sure MSII can do fuel cut on coasting. It will do fuel cut on Negative TPS Rotation but not during coasting. I can lower the VE table values in the coasting ranges, which I tried. This seemed to cause stumbles when I got back onto the gas when approaching a corner apex, so I set it back to normal. What management system are you using? Derek, you got me all pumped about trying the smoke machine test! I have to go find a smoke machine.

Really incredible stuff rturbo! That must take forever to make.

I like searching the web for short films. Especially some of the latest ones presented in HD. There is a ton of talent out there. I stumbled upon this one. I think you might enjoy it. Seems very well done. http://artgug.smugmug.com/gallery/5375185_8jPB2#329225546_ShHyQ-A-LB Vimeo.com in the HD section is also loaded with cool interesting stuff.

John, in NY we call that fixable rust. Yes, it's some amount of labor and faith but it is all too common around here. How long the repair will last? Who knows. Depends on the extent of the reconstruction. For a first car project intended for thrashing on the streets at lower speeds...patch it up and don't go too crazy with a paintjob. If this is a car you intend to fully restore or race, get a cleaner shell from the dry states.

If you drive around with the windows down now, are the fumes all gone? Even in deceleration? Great Idea! Smoke Machine lol.

I have a new theory (at least to me) about this OLD topic. The exhaust in my Z can be completely kept out of the cabin by driving with the windows closed. If I crack a window an inch or more, I begin to get some fumes. Two windows down is OK and putting the HVAC on at least speed 3 with fresh air improves the situation in any case. In ALL cases, the smell is MUCH worse under deceleration or engine braking. So much so, that I often take it out of gear when coasting down hill to reduce the overall volume of HC and CO. After playing around with lean/rich mixtures, + and - timing changes, during deceleration, thanks to Megasquirt, I came to this conclusion. During normal driving with engine under load, the exhaust velocity leaving the tailpipe is high enough for most of it to escape the tail panel vortex. When you lift, the exhaust velocity drops drastically and much more of it gets caught in the tail panel vortex. This high concentration of exhaust fumes in the tail vortex finds it's way along the back, sides and underside of the car eventually to your nostrils. What do you think about this theory? Cabin fumes are dependant on exhaust velocity at the tail pipe.

I think Clive posted his cam specs about four days ago on one of his own threads after posting the Dyno chart.

A few taken out of my 1:6 scale saiplane. These are screenshots of the video.

I think I do have a model of it in the megasquirt EDIS section. The dimensions are rough. I mounted it to the lower tap hole in the 83 AC bracket. When I got it set right, I pinned it into place.