cygnusx1

I was trying to say that some people can THINK for a solution, and others just tell you what they heard someone say. When the thinking type comes across with the slighly wrong conclusion after an intelligent thought process, at least they were thinking. This was not reflected in the guy that couldn't figure out a belt buckle. He obviously, couldn't THINK his way through a simple task. There are people that can think their way out of almost anything. There are others that just either don't want to, or just plain can't.

Let me put my definition in. My stock Z in first gear pulled LESS than my Z does now in third gear. My only gripe is that the roads are so poorly maintained (geared to the SUV driver) that I wish I had some sort of switch to raise the car and soften it up for taking the wife out to dinner. Other than that, my Z satisfies my need for thrust. Of course everytime I turn around, I think about adding "just a little more" boost. It is mainly always driveable, has AC, comfortable seats, heat, drives quietly when I want, and loud when I want. It will go slow and it will go fast just as well. Even though it has no modern safety gear, I feel safest and in most control with the Z.

The map I just posted right above here, has some pretty aggressive timing in the boost range. You can either, lower the boost area of the timing map, or run race fuel, or leave it as is and take the risks. I didn't hear it pinging with 92octane but I decided to lessen the risk and back off the boosted timing. I'll post later today. cygnusx1-lower timing.zip

Yup. Why I recommended a "grabbier" pad. Of course this assumes flex resulting from excessive pedal pressure.

How do I put this? Nobody has all the answers and nobody knows everything. I will take a person that has an well thought out theory, over a straight unexplained answer any day. The thought process often has more value than the answer.

Wow, I have come a long way since then!

Idling smooth at 1 degree of timing?! Something is wrong. It should not idle at all at 1 degree, advanced or retarded. Idle should be between 20-28 advanced. I ramp up to 37 degrees advance max up to atmospheric pressure, and pull back to only 20 degrees advanced by 17psi. Go get some timing tables from the sharing thread after you confirm your ACTUAL timing with a timing light and the timing tool (trigger wizard) in Megatune.

Unburnt fuel will make the O2 read lean.

Here is my latest sky video. As you can see Fall...I mean Autumn is approaching. 100" wingspan electric powered glider with a digital camera in the cockpit.

Very nice. Make sure you read the fine print...or have a lawyer do it for you. Some of these companies are really sneaky. I don't doubt you have a reputable company there...just a note to CYA. Does it cover the video you have linked in your sig? I would hate to see you ever lose that beauty.

I had a coworker that was an Industrial Engineer, working with me, he was going for his masters in ME. One day at work he was studying for an exam, or thesis, or something, and he called me over to his cubicle and asked me what's the difference between a screw and a bolt. Now, mind you, I grew up in a machine shop and operated milling machines at age 8 so I was slightly ahead of the game when I got my ME degree, but this guy opened up my eyes. He also had some problems to solve involving part design simplification. He could not for the life of him figure it out. I looked at the parts and had them instantly redrawn with about half the machining steps taken out of them. It's not "what you know" anymore... I am convinced that the brain is a bucket. You spend the early years learning common sense, the middle years learning facts, the later years learning a specialty. Somewhere North of grad school comes time to make more room in the bucket; out goes the common sense. Learn to kiss ass, you are now management material!

Sell it as a whole. You might get a little more if you part it, but is it worth your time to deal with multiple buyers/shipments/sales methods. I agree that your car's value comes from the entire package. I would consider a professional auction or specialty dealership if you can handle the fee. EDIT:

Opinions will vary. Probably best to start a new thread to generally discuss the AZC brakes instead of hanging it on this thread.

Yup makes sense. Crooked caliper would be mirrored diagonally. Maybe you need grabbier pads or bigger calipers.

I like the sound and it also reminds me of WRC, it's just not great for the turbo or mid-throttle driveability. The WRC guys drive at WOT or OFF all the time.

Both calipers or just one side? If it's only one side, I am going to guess a possible mis-alignment of the caliper to the rotor surface causing the pistons to cock to one side under pressure. Chack that the caliper is exactly perpendicular to the axle shaft. Measure the thickness of the pads front to back to see if there is any "slope" in them. http://www.wilwood.com/Products/001-Calipers/calipertech.asp

Make sure you have a heat management plan. Lots of things in there are close to those headers. Shield and insulate as much as you can. It looks great! I can't wait for the video.

Yup, under these circumstances, the BOV will be open or almost open at idle. I like it soooo much better than the "choking goose" sound and feel I used to get. When I was doing a burnout or a hard launch, it was almost impossible to modulate when the BOV was too tight. It would buck and catch if I lifted at all to control the wheel spin. Now, I have total control with no bucking or surging.

Mine technically is not adjustable either. I had stuffed washers inside to build up the spring pressure. You could cut a little at a time off the spring until it stops fluttering. I assume you can access the spring. I can actually reach my finger up inside and feel if the valve is open or closed at idle. You could also hold your hand at the BOV exit and rev it a tiny bit in neutral, feeling for blow off air. I am guessing you want it to be just cracked open at idle in your case. Then adjust from there.

I just went out for two test drives. One with the BOV REALLY tight and I got all sorts of flutter if I lifted anywhere above 3000rpms in any boost. The higher I took the boost, the worse it got. Then I loosened the BOV all the way so it was almost all the way open at idle. I took it for a spin and had very slightly less low end torque becuase it was venting some of the real early boost. On 30%-100% throttle I had no trouble building and holding full boost(15psi). If I backed off the throttle, I just got a nice, soft, gentle, whoooooooooooshhhh. No flutter no drama. I like it.

Yeah I still need to figure out how to get them to stay on the floor of the scene instead of them floating around. That's why I practice with cool parts like these.

Playing around with Solidworks at work today trying to learn about rendering and lighting. I took an old model I did of the Sportmax wheel, put a tire on it and rendered as still life. I think it makes a cool desktop.

Oh man this must be getting old. I am glad that you have the will to push forward. I would be at my wits end already. Anyone nearby that you can start swapping components with?

Yes I edited my reply. Would be a cool swap though!

Search Search Search! Hurry before you get scolded! Hint: Austin EDIT: Oh my apologies....I read Z32. Z32 is well covered here but Z33 is not as far as I know.