Xander

yo Frank, You have got to go and have a chat with that guy. He actually has it registered as a v8!!! He may have some tips on how to register your 280zx v8 project.

When I am spending money on my car again and my wife gives me a hard time about it, I usually tell her "men with hobbies don't cheat on their wives". That usually shuts her up

Sparky, can you share some pictures of how you routed the lichting harnas thru the air duct. I would love to clean up my enginebay. I am even thinking about rerouting the brakelines so that they can't be seen. Xw

how about clipsandfasteners.com http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=%27m10&Search.x=0&Search.y=0 great selection of all the small bits and pieces you might need. XW

double post

GRim, a regular megasquirt 1 with a v2.2 board is all you need to do what you want. Ad a Bosch BIP373 coil driver mod kit so you can fire the coil directly from MS. check out www.diyautotune.com there is all the information you need. You will need to run the MSextra firmware which can be found here http://www.msextra.com/doc/index.html . Usually people start with the injection system and switch to ignition control later, but there is no reason not to do ignition first. If you want to read true AFR ratio's you are going to need a wideband O2 sensor. good luck with you build. XW

guys. There must be someone here that has access to a waterjet or laser cutter. Copper sheet will run about $80 online for a sheet of 12" x 36" x 0.04". This is enough for two headgaskets. Now all we need is a good vector based patern for a headgasket. I am no expert but as I understand it the block needs to be Oringed only in extreme aplications. And for extreme builds you can buy steel Orings that can be used under the copper headgasket. This could be a usable and cheap alternative to the very expensive Cometics headgaskets. X

mercedes cl63 AMG some german build caterham clone

Tony. What's an air multiplier?

Hey Frank, This is the only decent picture I got.

and get some pictures of the car and post theme here.

How about getting it tuned NA first you slacker

I took a gable and last month I bought an airdam from ebay. It was made in thailand and the shipping was only $110. As expected the airdam is totally useless. It will not fit at all. But it was realatively cheap to ship. The box it came in was about 59x12x20. But I really need the dimensions of a good airdam. I can always go for the urethane one. That one will surely fit inside the 60" limit. hmmmm

that would definitly be an option. It's just that I was hoping to get the car painted before the end of summer Thanks anyway. You don't happen to have the dimensions of a type 1 airdam do you??

It is possible to ship a box that is 60" long via USPS. maximum length plus girth is 108". Can someone please measure a type one airdam? If it is slightly less than 60" long the box can be shipped for just $101,20 !!!

Hi all, I am looking to get a type 1 airdam (no ducts) for my 240Z. The problem is that shipping to the netherlands is a mayor problem. I am willing to pay any reasonable amount but the prices for shipping on ebay are just nuts. They are asking more than $600 for shipping!!!. Does anyone know of a good way to get an airdam to the netherlands???? Perhaps It's cheaper to cut an airdam in halve, ship it and mold it back together??? Is it not possible to just write my address on the airdam and ship it without packaging it? Any help or ideas will be greatly appreciated. Xander

Glad to see Robert Trujillo is still cool though. because of this guy I actually bought a bass guitar. Sold it two months later and used the money to buy parts for my Z

for less than $100 more you can have these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Parts-Accessories_Car-Truck-Parts-Accessories__Patriot-190cc-SBC-Alum-Straight-Plug-Bare-Heads_W0QQitemZ300292761284QQddnZPartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQadiZ2865QQddiZ2811QQadnZCarQ20Q26Q20TruckQ20PartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item300292761284&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A2|39%3A1|240%3A1318 I ran a 8.5 sec in the 1/8 mile with these on a 305 SBC.

I have had a similar experience. I had some fancy 87mm forged flattops in there and due to detonation a sparkplug broke. It's not healthy to have a hard piece of ceramic bounce around in an engine with about 1mm of space between the piston and the squish pad. It hammered the piston to bits. I looked a lot like you piston with the screw damage only worse. The problem was that I had the wideband O2 sensor in the stock location inside the turbo housing (I used a z31 turbo). Having the O2 sensor this close to the cylinderhead caused it to overheat. This in turned made my Megasquirt think the engine was running rich so it started injecting less fuel. Running lean at 15 psi of boost at 6000 rpm is not a good thing as you can imagine. So what's the position of your 02 sensor?

In this picture you can see the airtemp sensor mounted on the left strut tower. the air temp correction is not as significant as the coolant temp correction.

He is not running the sensor of a 5 volt supply. These sensor can handle anything up to 25 volts. He is running the sensor of a sanctioned 12V supply inside the MS unit.

not really. It's just that I am now using the version 2.2 board now. I am using three magnets in the front balancer. It's been a while since I installed everything and I am not able to check my setup any time soon. sorry

Z-ya. Your explanation of the pullup resistor is correct for a input like the ones on the processor. But the opto isolator is fired by grounding the negative side of the led inside. I doesn't matter if the voltage floats on the negative side. It should never be able to fire the led. The positive side of the led is connected to a regulated 5 volts from inside the megasquirt unit. I am not running a pullup and it is running fine. If you have connected the opto-in directly to a 5v source and you are not limiting the current with a resistor you might overload the opto. The input on the opto is can only handle 150mW. http://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20Sheets/Lite-On%20PDFs/4N25(26)(27)(28).pdf Oh and I am not using the capacitor. edit: I just checked the schematic and R12 is the current limiting resistor for the opto isolator. It should still be in place.

This is form the Hal switch manual. I have pretty much the same setup and it works flawlessly. Why did you go for a 6-1 setup just three magnets should be enough.

I bought a cheap ebay gear reduction starter. It still works fine but make sure to take apart the front end and reassemble it with locktite. it can vibrate loose. for 60 dollars its worth the gamble don't you think?